Hello guys

Picked up my first VRS on Saturday and am over the moon with it

I noticed when driving it today that if I am trying to go slow in 1st that it stutters around 1500rpm, it doesn't do it any other gear, is this normal?

I've searched the forum and found out a few other niggles I have with the car such as the sticking starter motor and the ARB bushes, but couldn't find anything about the stutter.

Also can someone recommend me a VAG specialist around Oxford?

Cheers

Mike

nice car mrc are in banbury

You could try a throttle body clean to see if that cures the stutter, especially if the car is old and high mileage

http://briskoda.net/general-guides/cleaning-throttle-body-1-8t-engine/145866/

Looks a clean car, and a fun car to have!

Welcome to Briskoda!

Nice car and welcome to the site. Those wheels look nice too, look like they have been painted a darker colour.

Hesitancy is a little hit and miss on these cars. I would certainly to a throttle body clean. Then I would check the service History to see when plugs, air filter and standard service parts were changed. This might be your next route.

Possibly a diagnostic check to see if the ECU is holding any fault codes that may point to something.

Edited 17 November, 200916 yr by DGW
No need to quote original post

What wheels are the ones you have, as mine are totally different :-(

Nice car! Welcome.

Nice car and welcome to the site. Those wheels look nice too, look like they have been painted a darker colour.

Hesitancy is a little hit and miss on these cars. I would certainly to a throttle body clean. Then I would check the service History to see when plugs, air filter and standard service parts were changed. This might be your next route.

Possibly a diagnostic check to see if the ECU is holding any fault codes that may point to something.

Cheers guys, the wheels were powder coated a dark grey which really sets the car off IMO. I will definitely be trying the throttle body clean on the weekend. The car has a full history and the plugs, air filter, fuel filter were all changed 5k ago. Its not really bad its just annoying and only effects the car when trying to move slowly in traffic, during normal driving its not as apparent. I'll get my uncle to hook up on VAG com and see if that says anything.

Found a new niggle today, the car doesn't beep if you leave the lights on, any ideas?

think the buzzers part of the instrument cluster IIRC

So does that mean a new indicator/light stalk?

Found a new niggle today, the car doesn't beep if you leave the lights on, any ideas?

When you open the drivers door, does the puddle light, interior light, and dashboard 'door open' indicator come on? Whether it's dark or light out, this should happen.

If it doesn't then you know why the lights buzzer doesn't come on, because the car doesn't know that the door is open.

It's a common fault and nothing to worry about. There is a microswitch in the doors locking mechanism, which just wears out over time. Mine oddly works during the winter, but not during the summer!! A blast of WD40 sometimes brings it to life.

Repair options are either totally replace the lock mechanism, or solder a new switch into the current mechanism. Or just forget about it!

Yep the car doesn't recognise that the doors open!!!!! Seems like my to do list is ever growing!

Yep the car doesn't recognise that the doors open!!!!! Seems like my to do list is ever growing!

Jackpot!

This jobs been on my to-do list for years! Don't really notice it to be honest.

Only thing I'll warn you about is don't unlock the car, then open only the drivers door and put the keys in the ignition and then close the door. Because the car won't know a doors been opened and will auto-lock after a few seconds!! I've only managed to do this once, luckily at home were I have my spare!

Obviously if you open the boot or other doors with working switches, the car won't auto-lock. The same goes for putting the ignition on.

Just thought of another awkward scenario! If you do the same, but leave the keys outside the car and get in. You will be dead-locked inside the car and won't be able to get out unless someone opens it with the keys!! Not sure if the boot is deadlocked, so maybe you could crawl out from there if it isn't!

I've made this sound like a serious issue now! Didn't mean to.

I'd noticed that but fortunatly haven't locked the keys in the car. Main issue I think will be leaving lights on and draining the battery not by me but then her indoors starts using the car!

Any ideas how much a dealer would charge to fix this?

Edited 17 November, 200916 yr by DGW
No need to quote previous post.

I noticed when driving it today that if I am trying to go slow in 1st that it stutters around 1500rpm, it doesn't do it any other gear, is this normal?

No definitely not normal, but very common.

Mine did this when I first got it - a combination of a throttle body clean and replacing the split "Y" shaped breather hose under the plastic engine cover cured it completely.

I think in my case the hesitation was down to unmetered air being drawn in where the hose was split, making it run lean on tiny throttle openings. The throttle body clean certainly does no harm in achieving smooth running though.

Nice colour BTW

Edited 17 November, 200916 yr by DGW
Transposed quote and reply. HTH

Hi welcome to the vRS club, nice looking car:thumbup:, the wheels do suite it more than silver ones would.

Peter

Edited 17 November, 200916 yr by DGW
No need to quote original post.

When you open the drivers door, does the puddle light, interior light, and dashboard 'door open' indicator come on? Whether it's dark or light out, this should happen.

If it doesn't then you know why the lights buzzer doesn't come on, because the car doesn't know that the door is open.

It's a common fault and nothing to worry about. There is a microswitch in the doors locking mechanism, which just wears out over time. Mine oddly works during the winter, but not during the summer!! A blast of WD40 sometimes brings it to life.

Repair options are either totally replace the lock mechanism, or solder a new switch into the current mechanism. Or just forget about it!

I changed the door lock mechanism microswitch some time back and is a intense job to say the least. Getting the correct microswitch and to get it to sit correct so the lower locking cambered wheel hits it correctly was a challenge. Would not be too bad with a OEM switch from a scrap yard mechanism, but then i would probably fit the whole mechanism anyway. After just over 6 months I now get the puddle light, interior light, and dashboard 'door open' indicator come on unexpectedly which is probably due to the microswitch moving slightly (screwed in), and a quick WD40 spray later tends to fix it. So I say a proper fix is a replacement door lock mechanism rather than a reworked one. Also cheeky Skoda fit the microswitches that come with plastic rivets that are heat gunned in place, which you end up breaking the ends off to remove them.

I changed the door lock mechanism microswitch some time back and is a intense job to say the least. Getting the correct microswitch and to get it to sit correct so the lower locking cambered wheel hits it correctly was a challenge. Would not be too bad with a OEM switch from a scrap yard mechanism, but then i would probably fit the whole mechanism anyway. After just over 6 months I now get the puddle light, interior light, and dashboard 'door open' indicator come on unexpectedly which is probably due to the microswitch moving slightly (screwed in), and a quick WD40 spray later tends to fix it. So I say a proper fix is a replacement door lock mechanism rather than a reworked one. Also cheeky Skoda fit the microswitches that come with plastic rivets that are heat gunned in place, which you end up breaking the ends off to remove them.

I do sometimes get the puddle light etc, where should I spray the WD40 can someone post a pic with an arrow? Would ACF50 be better to use?

Cheers guys

Mike