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Rear Squirter Non Return Vavle?

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During the freeze I blew fuse 15 and also popped off the rear washer at the bulk head.

All reconnected now and a suitably concentrated screen wash used (the tiny 1:1000 Skoda bottle I got had no instructions so assumed it was 1:1000 for winter)

My Boss always says Assumption is the mother of all Fuk Ups!.. Wise words.

Anyway, My rear washer now takes a second or two for the water to actually start coming now, and it's a little weaker than it used to be so I'm thinking one of two things is happening.

A. The Non-Return valve is busted, if present, and partially blocking the pipe as well as letting the water back into the bottle?

B. The Pipes split somewhere and is letting all the left over water out once the spraying has stopped and not taking as much pressure?

My rear foot wells are dry, so's my engine bay as far as I can see.

Anyone any ideas?

Edited by Rob.

It'll be the same as mine.

Mine takes a couple of seconds 'til it wets the screen.

And mysteriously I've developed a fan jet.

Mine blew at the bulkhead, When reconnected I found the clip is leaking slightly.

Get someone to wash the rear screen whilst you're looking at the pipe!

check inside the tailgate lock area, there is another joint at the washer nozzle, the water will run down into the lock if the pipe is off inside the tailgate

All reconnected now and a suitably concentrated screen wash used (the tiny 1:1000 Skoda bottle I got had no instructions so assumed it was 1:1000 for winter)

The recommended dilution rates are printed inside the front label on the Windscreen Clear Concentrate bottle. They are:

Summer: 1 part concentrate to 4 parts water

-16 degrees C: 1 part concentrate to 2 parts water (1:2)

-35 degrees C: 1:1

-40 degrees C: 2:1

-70 degrees C: Use undiluted

check inside the tailgate lock area, there is another joint at the washer nozzle, the water will run down into the lock if the pipe is off inside the tailgate

When I had this problem, it was the joint along the side of the NSR seat back. Because the two ends remained aligned, water still squirted through the gap like a soapy Evil Knievel, but there was clearly no pressure, so it didn't get far up the screen. Also, once you stopped squirting, all the water 'downstream' of the leak drained away, hence the delay when you push the lever.

Whichever one it is, it's fair to say you still have a leak!

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