N249 Removal

[vrs_1]

hi there

i'm thinking of doing this mod on mine as it gets rid of a load of useless s***e

everything seems straight foreward but the resistors will these ones do the job

linky

or can you point me in the right direction for the correct ones cos i cannot find them anywhere, if i have read correctly 300 ohm ones

cheers

[SNH]

this is the one ive got ready to use

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/330-OHM-50-WATT-WIREWOUND-ALCLAD-RESISTOR_W0QQitemZ360003040914QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Consumer_VintageAudio_RL?hash=item53d1da7692

[RobClubley]

....

Did you get any lights on atall Rob? Or just codes? If you did get any lights on, was it before or after you removed the N112?

Merci

Yes! Removing the SAI pump brought up a CEL which wouldn't go away even with a resistor in place. I had it mapped out with my STS remap.

[Bowders1]

Can someone confirm if I can get the N249, N112 and SAI pump CEL mapped out and not have to use any resisitors.

Yes, as Rob stated, cell light will come on. Mine did after around 1 week of driving. It does not effect the driving at all, I have cleared the cell a couple of times but it will come back. As far as I can tell most folks that have done this still get the cell light.

It is only for the SAI and not N249 and N112 vales being removed. The error is to do with the measure of air flow that is is still checking for on the SAI which is no longer there, even if you leave the N112 and N249 still in place i think the cell will be present..

When I get round to it I will get mine cell mapped out

Haha! Yeah everyone legged it!

I'd really like to know this too actually. I'm not a fan of the resistors! I'd like to just unplug the pump.

I don't care about error codes, it can pop up loads if it wants and I'll just recognise them when I run code scans. But if it's gonna pop a light up on the dash then that's more annoying, and what would be more annoying is if it kicked the car into limp mode.

Did you get any lights on atall Rob? Or just codes? If you did get any lights on, was it before or after you removed the N112?

Merci

as above you will get the cell light come on.

hi there

i'm thinking of doing this mod on mine as it gets rid of a load of useless s***e

everything seems straight foreward but the resistors will these ones do the job

linky

or can you point me in the right direction for the correct ones cos i cannot find them anywhere, if i have read correctly 300 ohm ones

cheers

Hi buddy I used these

http://uk.rs-online....archTerm=160382

Here is the link to the DIY pics I did.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/155472-sai-n249-and-n112-removal/page__gopid__1943116&

[Bodge]

Thanks Rob and Bowders for your replys.

I understand now that if I disconnect the pump, I will always get a CEL, but this can be mapped out, and it does not effect the running of the car (i.e. it doesn't put the car into limp mode). But I have one final question for you guys if that's OK.

If a CEL for the pump is gonna pop up regardless, why do you fit a resistor to the pump wiring? Is this just to attemp to avoid the CEL, or is it just so you don't get an extra error code for pump failure? I'm basically wondering if I can get away with not using a resistor when removing the pump? Aslong as it doesn't go into limp or explode then I'm happy!!

Thanks again lads, it's so good to have some people with experience of this now

[Bowders1]

Thanks Rob and Bowders for your replys.

If a CEL for the pump is gonna pop up regardless, why do you fit a resistor to the pump wiring? Is this just to attemp to avoid the CEL, or is it just so you don't get an extra error code for pump failure? I'm basically wondering if I can get away with not using a resistor when removing the pump? Aslong as it doesn't go into limp or explode then I'm happy!!

Hi buddy, The concept of fitting the resistors is to stop the cell light and fool the ECU to thinking the part taken off are still there.

So yes this is an attempt to try and stop the cell light. Although as most folks will say it is not that successful (having read Skoda, VW and Seat / Audi forums to)

So yes there is not much point putting the resistor into the SAI wiring if you are going to get it mapped out and there is actually no performance loss or limp mode.

We all learn as we go along my friend.

P.S A BIG TIP.

Be very careful not to break the dipstick guide when removing the metal bracket holding the N112 and N249 valves.

The Dipstick guide becomes very brittle with age due to the heat from coolant pipes and engine running near to it.

Only yesterday when I refitted the metal bracket (minus all the vavles and pipping to allow plastic cover to be refitted) I snapped it. Doh... wish I never bothered

http://www.veedubmachine.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=101_104_17&products_id=713

made a temporary fix. Typical now it's easter and parts dealers are closed.

Cheers

Edited 2 April, 2010 by Bowders1

[Bodge]

Cheers mate. That covers everything I wanted to know.

I actually bought a complete new two-piece dipstick tube earlier in the week! Made the mistake of getting the lower metal tube too haha! My top plastic tube is already cracked where it meets the metal tube so I'm already on that! http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/157100-dipstick-tube-confusion/

I wonder if RS Tuning can map out the CEL for the SAI pump......

Might pull the pump off this weekend if I get the time.