Hi All,

I've finally decided I'd like to mount my Garmin satnav using the windscreen suction cup on the bottom right hand side of the windscreen, and would like to permanently wire in the power for it.

I've bought a cigarette lighter adapter (female socket) for the original charger to plug into, and would like to wire it in somewhere beneath the dash to the right of the steering column. I assume this should be fairly convenient since it's close to the fusebox, and then have the power cable emerge near the base of the A pillar and dash to power the satnav when in use.

So where is the easiest place to pick up a switched live feed to connect up? Can I tap into the back of the fusebox (don't know what type of connectors these use) or is it easier to cut into a switched live feed wire there somewhere?

Having done a quick search here I also found (link below) mention by VRStu of something called a repair wire (available from dealer) that plugs directly into the fuse box allowing me to get a feed from there. This sounds exactly like what I'm looking for but I'm not really sure?

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/123671-switched-live-help/page__view__findpost__p__1552449

Any advice would be much appreciated.

I read somewhere that PIN 20 on the climate control unit is a switched live - but don't quote me on it. Pick yourself up a little screwdriver type circuit tester and that should help you find one with ease !

I read somewhere that PIN 20 on the climate control unit is a switched live - but don't quote me on it. Pick yourself up a little screwdriver type circuit tester and that should help you find one with ease !

I don't have climate control - only AC, and besides that's the wrong side of the steering wheel really for me. I have a multimeter so shouldn't have too much trouble finding a switched live if I have to hunt. Was kinda hoping someone might know though

Use a repair wire into the rear of the fusebox, then you can fit a proper fuse into one of the slots. A much safer and neater install.

Use a repair wire into the rear of the fusebox, then you can fit a proper fuse into one of the slots. A much safer and neater install.

Hi Keith,

Thanks - yes, that's what I'm thinking.

Any idea which repair wire I need? I found these codes/pics here:

http://www.nsxjr.com/partpix/

The codes starting 000-979-XXX all look like repair wires. I'm guessing I'd need XXX = 131, 133, 225 or 227 to take a fuse blade?

Thanks

They all look OK to me, I would use the one with thicker wire though just to be on the safe side.

I used 000-979-021 in mine and its fits the mini-fuse slots at the top of the fusebox perfectly

Edited 20 February, 201016 yr by Keith Lard

They all look OK to me, I would use the one with thicker wire though just to be on the safe side.

I used 000-979-021 in mine and its fits the mini-fuse slots at the top of the fusebox perfectly

Thanks Keith, much appreciated.

I'll take the fuse box cover off tomorrow and have a proper look in there.

I found a couple good threads on adding additional circuits to the fuse box:

http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62584

http://www.my-gti.com/601/addition-of-extra-circuits-to-the-volkswagen-golf-jetta-passat-eos-scirocco-rabbit-fuse-box

Both threads mention that the negative should be disconnected and that all the fuses need to be removed in order to insert the new connector into the fuse box.

Will this cause any issues, like error codes, warning lights etc or the stereo needing a security code re-entered afterwards?

You dont need to disconnect the battery or take out any fuses. I certainly didn't.

Just dont put your fuse in your new circuit until its all rebuilt.

You dont need to disconnect the battery or take out any fuses. I certainly didn't.

Just dont put your fuse in your new circuit until its all rebuilt.

Thanks again Keith. They are saying that you can't get the new connector on the repair wire into the back of the fuse block until you release a catch on the fuse block, and you can't do that with fuses installed hence why they remove al the fuses. I guess I'll try it and see

In the end I went with the simple option and plugged a male spade terminal into the front of the fuse box in an unused switched live rail and used an inline fuse (it seemed a lot easier than dismantling the dash to get the fuse box out just to insert one wire).