Hi All

I have just bought myself a 2005 skoda superb 1.9td ,

The problem is when the car is ticking over theres clouds of blue smoke and the car seems to be missing,

If i take the car for a drive it dosnt smoke as bad for a while but if left ticking over the smoke reappears.

I have change air filter ,diesel filter , changed the oil and filter but it is still the same ,

I have pictures but i dont no have to attach them.

Many thanks

Chris

Blue smoke is usually light burning of engine oil. Does the car appear to be using oil?

If so, usual suspects would be blocked crankcase vent, so overpressure blows into the inlet but that would be worse at higher engine speeds inlet valve stem oil seals, piston rings, and the very beginning of turbo bearing seal failure.

Edited 3 March, 201016 yr by KenONeill

I just hope it's the crank case vent, as all the other problems

will be expensive to resolve.

Hi All

I have just bought myself a 2005 skoda superb 1.9td ,

The problem is when the car is ticking over theres clouds of blue smoke and the car seems to be missing,

If i take the car for a drive it dosnt smoke as bad for a while but if left ticking over the smoke reappears.

I have change air filter ,diesel filter , changed the oil and filter but it is still the same ,

I have pictures but i dont no have to attach them.

Many thanks

Chris

Before you start on expensive items try the EGR valve. Had a very similar issue that was resolved by removing the egr. Don't have my car at home right now but will take a few shots and post them up sometime. Try searching the forum in the meantime.

Thanks for your replys

The car dosnt seem to be using oil and if I take the car on a journey the blue smoke stops for a while( but starts again if car sits for a while turned off),

The smoke from the exhaust smells stongly of diesel and theres a little miss in the engine when ticking over,

Do the injectors give any trouble on the superb?

When I changed the oil yesterday the oil was thick and black like it hadnt been changed for ages.

Is there any way to upload pictures

Regards

Chris

Before you start on expensive items try the EGR valve. Had a very similar issue that was resolved by removing the egr. Don't have my car at home right now but will take a few shots and post them up sometime. Try searching the forum in the meantime.

Wise words

Did the car you fixed have clouds of blue smoke at tickover?

Thanks

Chris

Hi all

just done a scan of injectors using vag tool and one injectors seems to be different from the rest.

Wednesday,03,March,2010,20:18:48:17906

VCDS Version: Release 908.1

Data version: 20091018

Address 01: Engine (03G 906 016 GS)

20:18:29 Group 004

861 /min RPM

0.0 °BTDC Ign. Timing

7.6°KW Idle Stabilization

-2.0°KW Idle Stabilization

20:18:29 Group 007

67.5°C Temperature

17.1°C Temperature

72.9°C Temperature

20:18:29 Group 013

-0.56 mg/str Inj. Quantity

-1.69 mg/str Inj. Quantity

-0.45 mg/str Inj. Quantity

2.73 mg/str Inj. Quantity

Regards

Chris

Clearly something is amiss, but with that data I would expect black smoke on idle?

Is it possible the fuel could be washing the bore? Im not sure if this is possible on a diesel, but i know it is on a petrol.

A friend of mine had a Eddie Jordan civic that started smoking heavily blue, it turned out it was overfueling down to a duff sensor.

Is it possible the fuel could be washing the bore? Im not sure if this is possible on a diesel, but i know it is on a petrol.

A friend of mine had a Eddie Jordan civic that started smoking heavily blue, it turned out it was overfueling down to a duff sensor.

That is another weak point, fuel temp sensor, costs about £15 at GSF and would be a logical place to start if you don't want to have to send it to Skoda, another thought I've had is this, you mention the oil was bad, you could have a sticky valve in the head, or a stem seal gone, this is where it will get a bit at your own risk, normal thing to do is to get a good engine flush, don't use the stuff Halfords etc sell, VX do a very good Fortrun one, get an inj one at the sametime and put it in half a tank of fuel, but you will risk pulling sludge and potentially blocking up other things, if you do do it, get the engine really hot, add the treatment and leave it idle for 10-15 minutes, don't rev it or drive while the flush is in there, drain it and then I would then use a cheap oil and go for a 30 minute drive, and then drain that and add the specified oil, change the filter as well of course, this should pick up the remaining flush and any loose sludge, remember to wipe out the filter housing as well, hth.

Hi Briskodian

I have done all that you have mentioned I done the engine flush and chaged the oil, Plus added injector clener to the half tank of diesel,

I must say the car is going better than when I first got it until it goes into limp mode.

Heres the faults found.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 01: Engine Labels: None

Control Module Part Number: 03G 906 016 GS HW: 028 101 255 2

Component and/or Version: R4 1,9L EDC 0000SG 8178

Software Coding: 0000071

Work Shop Code: WSC 73430 000 00000

2 Faults Found:

16618 - Boost Pressure Regulation: Limit Exceeded (Overboost Condition)

P0234 - 000 - -

Freeze Frame:

RPM: 3192 /min

Torque: 180.6 Nm

Speed: 82.0 km/h

Load: 52.9 %

Voltage: 14.14 V

Bin. Bits: 00000000

Absolute Pres.: 1856.4 mbar

Absolute Pres.: 2376.6 mbar

16685 - Cylinder 1: Misfire Detected

P0301 - 000 - - - Intermittent

Freeze Frame:

RPM: 882 /min

Torque: 51.2 Nm

Speed: 0.0 km/h

Load: 0.0 %

Voltage: 14.36 V

Inj. Quantity: 2.96 mg/str

Temperature: 23.4°C

(no units): 0.0

Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0

Regards

Chris

Hi Briskodian

I have done all that you have mentioned I done the engine flush and chaged the oil, Plus added injector clener to the half tank of diesel,

I must say the car is going better than when I first got it until it goes into limp mode.

Heres the faults found.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 01: Engine Labels: None

Control Module Part Number: 03G 906 016 GS HW: 028 101 255 2

Component and/or Version: R4 1,9L EDC 0000SG 8178

Software Coding: 0000071

Work Shop Code: WSC 73430 000 00000

2 Faults Found:

16618 - Boost Pressure Regulation: Limit Exceeded (Overboost Condition)

P0234 - 000 - -

Freeze Frame:

RPM: 3192 /min

Torque: 180.6 Nm

Speed: 82.0 km/h

Load: 52.9 %

Voltage: 14.14 V

Bin. Bits: 00000000

Absolute Pres.: 1856.4 mbar

Absolute Pres.: 2376.6 mbar

16685 - Cylinder 1: Misfire Detected

P0301 - 000 - - - Intermittent

Freeze Frame:

RPM: 882 /min

Torque: 51.2 Nm

Speed: 0.0 km/h

Load: 0.0 %

Voltage: 14.36 V

Inj. Quantity: 2.96 mg/str

Temperature: 23.4°C

(no units): 0.0

Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0

Regards

Chris

Chris I got exactly the same symptoms, even the same fault code. As I posted above with the EGR cancelled out all was well. It's free to try. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the EGR and have someone cover it with the tip of their finger, then start the car and see what the results are. If all becomes well, simply take a suitable sized screw and block the hose permanently.

Hi All

I managed to get myself a compression kit today heres the results

Cylinder 1 : 280 psi

all the rest are approx 400 psi, my compression kit dosnt goany higher than that,

So theres definetly a problem on cylinder 1

Has anyone got any info on these engines on replaceing connecting rods and torque settings?

Many thanks

Chris

Before you go too far into this engine, remove the rocker cover and have a very close look at the valve cams and followers associated with cyl 1. You may well find that (probably due to the use of wrongly specified oil) the cams and tappet surfaces are badly worn. If this is the case, the job can be put right in-situ without disturbing the head. The parts are expensive.

rotodiesel.

Hi Rotodiesel

I took off the rocker cover and everything looks fine no wear at all,

The car looks like it has recently had a timing belt changed and the cam shaft pulley dosnt seem to be in its original position,

So I dont really dont know what the story is with this car but its looking like the head will have to come off to investigate.

Regards

Chris

The Haynes manual 4279 for the old Passat gives enough data to strip an AWX engine - if you trust the accuracy of their figures. Note that the cambelt tensioner they describe is the old version with the hydraulic damper - the text covers both types but there are no illustrations of the later friction damper fitted to most Superbs.

This is typical Haynes - they do not keep up to date with modifications and don't include illustrations to cover later changes. The text then becomes confusing. The AWX is an easy engine to strip but be very careful when you take the head off not to damage the injector nozzles or glowplug tips.

If it smokes at idle, I wonder if a ring is sticking. Examine the piston crowns very carefully when the head is off - I wonder if that new belt was fitted to replace a broken one... If there is a valve mark anywhere near the edge of the piston, this will trap the top ring. Let's know what you find.

rotodiesel.

It looks the the car has been through a flood or has ben left in a flood, I had a look in the boot today and the service history book and service manuals were all lying in the boot soaking wet.

These must have been taken out of glovebox and threw in the boot because they were soaked.

The indicators are flashing twice as fast as they should be also even though all bulbs are working, (the relay must be full of water )

The picture is slowy emerging .

It will be tuesday now before I get a chance to strip the engine down ,

I will keep you posted .

Regards

Chris

If there is a possibility that the engine has suffered a hydraulic lock, measure the piston protrusions when the head is off. If rod No 1 is very bent, this will lower the compression and a protrusion test will find it.

rotodiesel.

hello there i thought you might want to check if the engine has been chipped with the cheap chip which bye-passes the fuel temp sensor, mine was working ok getting 62mpg on a run 55mpg on combined but always smoked really bad with hard exceleration i bought one of said chip approx £28 to get more mpg when i went to fit the chip there was one already fitted, took the chip off altogether and the smoking stopped lost 10 mpg though, its located behind & below the inline fuel filter right hand side back of engine looking from the front of the car it could be something that simple thats breaking down good luck

Hi All

I took the head off the engine today and piston 1 is about 5mm lower than the other pistons at TDC,

Is it possible to remove the sump pan without removing the gearbox on this engine (BSV Engine code)

Thanks

Chris

The engine has obviously suffered a hydraulic lock.

Although the Superb handles like a boat, taking it for a swim is not a good idea.

More helpfully, you can get the sump off in-situ but the back bolts are awkward. I seem to remember you need ball-ended hex drivers to get some of the bolts out near the bell housing.

Go very carefully with this engine, if you have a 5mm protrusion difference the crank may be bent as well as rod No 1. The bearings will have taken a beating as well. There are plenty of AWX engines around (although they fetch good money) - consider another engine.

rotodiesel.

Hi All

I took the head off the engine today and piston 1 is about 5mm lower than the other pistons at TDC,

Is it possible to remove the sump pan without removing the gearbox on this engine (BSV Engine code)

Thanks

Chris

Cripes, that's bad news. Sympathy.

I should have added that a simple test for a bent crank is to find TDC on piston 4 with a DTI on the block face. Mark a starter ring gear tooth with white marker in the bell housing aperture. Now repeat with the DTI on piston 1 (the height will be different of course). If the crankpin bearing for No 1 is shot, you will have to approach from both directions and take the average.

TDC for 1 and 4 should coincide to less than half a tooth. If just the rod is bent, this will apply but if the crank is bent, the marks will not align.

Don't waste any time or money on an engine with a bent crank.

rotodiesel.

A little update:

I have checked the crank and everything is fine , the old shells off crank were also in good condition.

I have received all my new parts today but before I start I need torque wrench settings for the head and bolts on the connecting rod .

Does anyone have this info they could share with me .

Many Thanks

Chris