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Fabia VRS - DIY brake disc/pad fitting

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Hi All

I have been searching hard and there is clearly loads of info on brake options and upgrades, but i am struggling to find any info on the in's and out's of doing a DIY disc/pad change (in my case on a VRS).

Does any such post or how-to exist? If so, could somebody please point in the right direction so that i can sneak away in shame at my poor searching ability?? ;)

I am guessing that caliper removal, caliper mounting bracket removal, disc removal is all relatively standard as on most cars, just wanted to check if any special tools or fittings required on a VRS?

I have a caliper wind-back tool already for the back, but my plan is just to tackle the front brakes at the mo.

Thanks in advance

Andy

bolts holding the bracket to the knuckle can be tight, so a 1/2" breaker bar and socket is useful

might also need a 6mm allen key to undo the bolt holding the disc on

You can't have looked hard. There is a recent thread about it. Here Sorry no pics included, it may seam complicated, but remember there is only 3 bolts to undo and a screw per wheel.

I'm sure there was a picture guide in the General or Fabia Guides, on fitting bigger brakes, but I can't seam to find it. There is this one that tells you what you need Fabia-vrs.com - 312mm Brake upgrade kits

The Calliper rewind tool is only required for the rear brakes, there is a guide on this in the Fabia Technical Guides section on here.

  • Author

Thanks for the info guys.

All sounds relatively straight-forward. Thought that the retaining screw might be a star-socket type but if it is a allen key/hex type then should be less chance of mashing it up.

Cheers again

Andy.

Having done my brakes just a few days ago and also using my homemade rewind tool on the rear pistons. The disc retainer screw is not hex or torx. Its a + head. You will need an impact driver to undo it. Just one sharp hit will loosen it off and then remove as normal.

Also a good idea to remove the brake fluid cap to release pressure and to also keep an eye on how high the brake fluid rises when pushing the pistons back in.

Will the brakes need bleeding too?

Never bled brakes so im thinking i should get 312mm put on professionally?

Shouldnt need to unless your changing the brake fluid at the same time.

Will the brakes need bleeding too?

Never bled brakes so im thinking i should get 312mm put on professionally?

You will only need to bleed the brakes if you are changing the callipers for bigger ones, or changing the brake fluid.

I replaced all my discs and pads last night, with standard parts (Brembo discs/Bosch pads from GSF). As above, you'll need a breaker bar to release the front bracket, or risk breaking your rachet. For the back, there's an allen key to release the bracket, tap it in fully to make sure it doesn't slip. Oher than that, the wind back of the caliper can take a bit of effort but once engaged the piston should wind in over about 2 revolutions.

I only replaced the damn things because they were rotting away...

  • Author

Done some reading on recommendations for best pads/discs and seems that for stock replacements the Mintex parts seem to get fairly good reports on here. Was going to go EBC (just plain discs and pads) but the Mintex seem to be cheaper and better from comments on here.

Not sure of best place to buy the Mintex parts, but found this on e-bay, front discs and pad set for £74 (inc delivery), is this the best price i am likely to find as can't find much cheaper at the mo?:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SKODA-FABIA-RS-MINTEX-FRONT-DISCS-PADS-2003_W0QQitemZ360060996903QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item53d54ecd27

Andy.

I got discs and pads for all 4 wheels for £66 delivered via Ebay so you maybe able to get them cheaper. Just a matter of timing :)

Changing the brake pads and disc is simple.

On the front theres 2 nuts holding the caliper onto the carrier.

You undo these and the caliper comes off.

The pads should just slide out from the carrier (does take a bit of jiggery pokery)

The disc is held on with a torx screw, think its a T30

Undo this and the disc comes off.

Then put the new disc on and tighten up the retaining screw.

Then slide the new pads onto the carriers and position them as close to the disc as possible.

The piston needs to be wound back using a piston windback tool, or a g clamp.

Then slide the caliper over the pads and tighten up the two 12mm bolts removed earlier.

Voila job done

****REMEMBER*****

Pump the brake pedal a few times untill the pedal goes hard so the piston can get to its correct level!

I went for mintex discs and EBC greenstuff pads and i cant fault them!!!!

Not sure how the rears are done yet cos i havn't wrecked them enough to warrant changing them!! :rofl:

  • 3 weeks later...

Picked up the bits to do mine today from the dealer, the box that had the 4 pads in only had 2 bolts in there. Is that right or should there be two new ones for each side?

Should the carrier to hub mounting bolts be replaced or are they a clean up and apply some loctite 243 type job?

Edited by BlackFR

Picked up the bits to do mine today from the dealer, the box that had the 4 pads in only had 2 bolts in there. Is that right or should there be two new ones for each side?

Should the carrier to hub mounting bolts be replaced or are they a clean up and apply some loctite 243 type job?

When changing the front pads, you only remove the bottom guide pin bolt, then swing the calliper up, so Yes, there should only be 2 bolts for the front. I can't find my Haynes Manual, but I don't think you need new mounting bolts when you change the disc.

Edited by Jim H

i changed my rear discs yesterday and it all went pretty smoothly. i managed to get the discs out without removing the carriers,

do the front discs come out without removing carriers too?

do the front discs come out without removing carriers too?

I'd like to know the answer to that too :D

I'd like to know the answer to that too :D

the answer is no :( tried doing them this morning and couldnt, need to take carriers off and f**k me are they tight, couldnt undo so gonna have to be a garage job to do the fronts:(

Thats no fun! Is it pointless trying with my 2ft breaker bar? lol

haha naa your probably do it with one them! i havent got one so i werent able to lol

Well got them on, the carrier bolts came undone with a a couple of wacks with the fist on the end of the 16" breaker bar then the discs just fell off when I undid the retaining screw no club hammer needed!

I dabbed a little blue threadlock on the carrier retaining bolts as I was putting them back together. Not sure if that was the correct thing to do or not but I figured it would do no harm!

Take the lot off and give everything a good clean up. On mine the disc retaining screw was seized so had to drilled out, what a pain that was.

So put a spot of copper grease on the retaining screw. Threadlock on the caliper and carrier bolts is also a good idea.

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