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hi guys can any one help please i need to fit a new radiator in my fabia VRS has anyone done this and if so was it easy?

Thanks in advance

:)

Hi

I did this recently having developed a leak - from the bottom left corner (stone damage? - and while I don't have a pictorial record of what I did it IS reasonably straightforward. To do it you will need to remove the bumper - bumper reinforcement bar - bonnet slam panel - air intake mouldings - and the heavily moulded plastic panel to which the radiator and air conditioning condenser radiator are attached.

Coolant (if collected) can be reused. The only extra item I had to replace was the foam strips (like draughtproofing strips) between the 2 radiators. NO NEED TO DRAIN THE REFRIGERANT - just have a suitable 'stack' of blocks to support the air con. radiator when you remove the front panel!!! £100 for a dealer supplied radiator. I've had no trouble since fitting it.

Hope this is of some use to you?

Alan

Edited by aak
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Hi

I did his recently having developed a leak and while I don't have a pictorial record of what I did it IS reasonably straightforward. To do it you will need to remove the bumper - bumper reinforcement bar - bonnet slam panel - air intake mouldings - and the heavily moulded plastic panel to which the radiator and air conditioning condenser radiator are attached.

Coolant (if collected) can be reused. The only extra item I had to replace was the foam strips (like draughtproofing strips) between the 2 radiators. NO NEED TO DRAIN THE REFRIGERANT - just have a suitable 'stack' of blocks to support the air con. radiator when you remove the front panel!!! £100 for a dealer supplied radiator. I've had no trouble since fitting it.

Hope this is of some use to you?

Alan

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Cheers for that seems alot of work is the only way to take off the bumper and slam pannel? seems more involved than i thought how was the rad mounted to the car?

Does seem like a lot of work - but if you approach it in a methodical manner you won't come across any unsurmountable problems. The 2 radiators are bolted together and are bolted to the heavy plastic front panel moulding by torx bolts - if I remember correctly. the 'mistake' I made was trying to separate the 2 radiators BEFORE removing the front panel moulding. Removing the moulding makes it Soooooo much more straightforward.

Alan

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Does seem like a lot of work - but if you approach it in a methodical manner you won't come across any unsurmountable problems. The 2 radiators are bolted together and are bolted to the heavy plastic front panel moulding by torx bolts - if I remember correctly. the 'mistake' I made was trying to separate the 2 radiators BEFORE removing the front panel moulding. Removing the moulding makes it Soooooo much more straightforward.

Alan

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Cheers Alan

All went ok to day your advice spot on only when putting back together realised could have taken photo's to help others oops

cheers

Marcus

Thanks for that Marcus.

Thinking about it again afterwards I realised I forgot to mention the radiator cowling and the disconnection of the wiring from both fans and the temperature sender - but you obviously managed fine!! A methodical approach as I said.

Not much space in there - eh?!! Glad you got it done OK.

Did you notice a 'post' elsewhere on the forum? Some one being quoted £200 + VAT + Labour for a radiator replacement!! (albeit a petrol engine) :o

Makes all the work you did worthwhile.

Regards

Alan

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Thanks for that Marcus.

Thinking about it again afterwards I realised I forgot to mention the radiator cowling and the disconnection of the wiring from both fans and the temperature sender - but you obviously managed fine!! A methodical approach as I said.

Not much space in there - eh?!! Glad you got it done OK.

Did you notice a 'post' elsewhere on the forum? Some one being quoted £200 + VAT + Labour for a radiator replacement!! (albeit a petrol engine) :o

Makes all the work you did worthwhile.

Regards

Alan

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Did not notice any other posts, but your right about the price got quoted 249.99 plus vat plus labour from Skoda. Lots of confusion about rad types. I went to a local trade supplier for the radiator cost me £88 incl so well happy also radiator was oe spec. Only surpise that was the temperature sender wires had rotted away and only 1 out of the 3 we re making contact?

thanks Again

Marcus

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Did not notice any other posts, but your right about the price got quoted 249.99 plus vat plus labour from Skoda. Lots of confusion about rad types. I went to a local trade supplier for the radiator cost me £88 incl so well happy also radiator was oe spec. Only surpise that was the temperature sender wires had rotted away and only 1 out of the 3 we re making contact?

thanks Again

Marcus

Hi Marcus

I had to help my dealer get the correct radiator too - thanks to vagcat.com for part number.

So that means that you've solved 2 problems for a fraction of the cost of Skoda dealer fixing 1 :thumbup: AND your knowledge base/confidence level have increased as a result too....!!

The loud whirring noise you'll hear when the hot summer days arrive will be the radiator cooling fans 'kicking in' (now that they're wired in!!) :giggle: You'll possibly find your aircon. works a bit better too?

I'll be looking out for you setting yourself up as a radiator replacement specialist....!!

All the best

Alan

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Hi Marcus

I had to help my dealer get the correct radiator too - thanks to vagcat.com for part number.

So that means that you've solved 2 problems for a fraction of the cost of Skoda dealer fixing 1 :thumbup: AND your knowledge base/confidence level have increased as a result too....!!

The loud whirring noise you'll hear when the hot summer days arrive will be the radiator cooling fans 'kicking in' (now that they're wired in!!) :giggle: You'll possibly find your aircon. works a bit better too?

I'll be looking out for you setting yourself up as a radiator replacement specialist....!!

All the best

Alan

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  • 2 months later...

Hi guys, could you supply a part number for the radiator please? I'm looking to change mine / have it done at an Indy so will supply parts myself if I can.

Cheers,

Dave

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Hi Dave just found invoice but it has not got a part nos on it

the suppliers are K.B Radiators tel nos 01580 753801 or 07850371937

the cost was £75.00 plus vat

they only are small independant but are very helpful and they do post out too

hope this helps

Marcus

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Hi Dave just found invoice but it has not got a part nos on it

the suppliers are K.B Radiators tel nos 01580 753801 or 07850371937

the cost was £75.00 plus vat

they only are small independant but are very helpful and they do post out too

hope this helps

Marcus

Thanks for your reply and the info Marcus. I'll give them a try :thumbup:

Cheers,

Dave

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  • 3 years later...

Hi all

Looks like the rad is leaking on ours so planning on changing it out at the weekend.

Would be great if someone could help me with following questions:

- is it just a new rad and replacement g12 that is needed or am I also likely to need a new temp sender when I try to transfer it to new rad?

- any other parts or special tools needed? Sounds like just lots of torx bolts to work my way through to disassemble and gain access?

- is front bumper easy to remove, not done this before but seems very solidly mounted?

- anything else I should be thinking about and any idea on time it will take?

- any views on whether OE part at approx 100 notes or ecp part at approx 65 is best?

Thanks loads

Andy

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So looks like OE part will be 130 and ECP will be 65, think I will go the cost effective route and keep everything crossed......

Anyone done this and got any thoughts on my questions above???

Cheers

A

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Hi Andy,

 

I can't help with many of your questions because I haven't changed a Fabia radiator, but I'll try a few from experience of other VAG cars.

 

There is one other part (but 2 of them) that I think I'd at least get hold of, in case they look 'tired' when you get there.  Item 3 on this page is an o-ring that seals the top and bottom radiator hose couplings against the radiator hose stubs.  I've no idea if these ever cause problems when re-used, but for the sake of a few pennies for some O-rings, I'd have them to hand if I were embarking on the job. It's possible new radiators are supplied with these, but I doubt it somehow.

 

I don't see why you'd need to replace the thermoswitch. With the old radiator out of the car, access will be easy to get a spanner on it and remove, pop it on the new rad before it goes in, don't overtighten. Some recommend PTFE tape on the threads, but I'm under the impression that the seal is actually formed 'end-on' between the plastic surface of the radiator end moulding, and the underside of the metal flange of the thermoswitch, so what happens at the threads isn't relevant.

 

Haynes says the coolant capacity of an ASZ-equipped car is 6.8 litres, but you won't get all of that out by removing the rad, so I would buy 2 bottles of 1.5 litres G13 (which is VAG's latest coolant version), and mix each with equal quantity of fresh water, yielding 6 litres total. I doubt you'll use it all when refilling.

 

Good luck with it.

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Thanks very much for all that info, have the new rad now so will start the job after work tomorrow. Will try to get any key info or findings up on here after for others future reference.......

A

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So got the front of car stripped down today and coolant drained ready to change the rad out in the morning.

The posts above talk about removing the big plastic front panel that the rads are mounted to, but to do this would seem to involve headlight removal and lots more stripping down.

Current plan is to try to separate the two rads in situ and then lower the main rad down into and under the engine bay, anyone know if this is the right or wrong way to approach it??

Also, the new rad I have only has spigots on the side to mount the rad assembly to the car, do I there need to use the original mounting blocks to allow the four torx bolts to fix it to front plastic panel??

Cheers

A

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As above, a slow job due to removal of A/C rad, bumper etc but not difficult. Get more room to move about by putting on stands and removing front wheels. Hang A/C rad by string. Best to remove the big panel, but no need to remove headlamps - however - warning - those radiator fins are very sharp and because there is little room it is tempting to get your fingers in there. Don't, it's even harder with fingers covered in elastoplast.

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Strange, my headlamps are mounted to big plastic panel that houses the rads.

Managed to get it all apart and rad changed out, but temp sender wires were shot. The location of the temp sender connector and wires is shocking, no idea how long it has been driven with broken wires. Tried to solder in new lengths of wire but hardly any good wire left in connector so will keep fingers crossed that engine doesn't run too hot in the summer, although air con fans will keep it cool.

A

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