Breezy_Pete

Did you find the relay? Could be sometimes sticking/welding its contacts.

Yes

Does the radiator fan come on shortly after switching on A/C and asking for cold air? [Try on driveway with bonnet open for visibility, but keep fingers well clear].

I don't think there is one. There is a heat exchanger on the back of the engine block that sometimes leaks on the BXW, I seem to remember. A search on keywords like BXW and coolant leak may find threads.

Just a reply, there is a 20 post qualification thing as an anti-spam measure before you can PM a member. You should be able to now.

Make one more post and you'll be able to message me with the VIN. I can tell you. Won't be instant though, I'm at the vets.

It never is, as far as I know.

Phone them with your VIN at hand and get them to work it out. If they can't, get a refund and go somewhere else!

You probably know this @kokosal , but the inner and outer pads are different, and can rattle if an outer pad is fitted in the inner/piston side. The retaining clips are different. I've marked on your image (you don't say which pad was from where) which are inners and which are outers. Check that you have correct outer pads on both sides, that should guarantee that there isn't a positioning mistake. Here's an image of mine showing the difference in clips:

No, it's just a plastic dust cap I think. I guess there's a screw-out bit behind it that lets the dryer cartridge be inserted during build of the condenser.

Can just about squeeze my arm down in here and feel that it has come off the bottom of the condenser dryer. Can't get it to screw back in, either way. Not sure if it has maybe sheared off from a longer plastic thread originally. Would be bumper off to get a proper look, and not sure it's worth it. Condenser was new last summer, and no way is that cap any sort of gas seal.

This is at the front, wondering about maybe off top of A/C dryer. Will have a look in a sec.

I was doing a brake service just now, and spotted something that looked out of place. Could have fallen to where it was found from within engine bay, I think. Might be just road debris that's flicked up and lodged there? It's plastic, has a very short screw thread on the back. Last photo shows where it was found just between arch liner and lowest point of red bumper plastic.

It's easy to spend quite a bit of effort and cash replacing suspension bits only to eventually notice that an exhaust heatshield has corroded off one or two of its fixings somewhere near the front.

You might be able to get the left strut out without disconnecting the driveshaft. Worth trying, maybe?

Borrow a 3/4" sq breaker bar and adaptor to 1/2". Or 3/4" socket too.

My next suggestion is to clean the contacts of the adaptor connector that goes onto that board-mounted connector. In this photo of yours there's some crusty green corrosion residue in a few places, and I think I can see some on the contacts of the fork that goes onto the driver's window switch contact pin on the circuitboard. Ringed below. Also it is probably worth gently and carefully squeezing these contact pairs together, to improve the contact pressure when it is fitted back down onto the circuitboard. The legs of the forks are quite long, so I think they can open up a bit over the years which maybe unhelpful. You may as well clean up all the contact surfaces of all of those fork pins while you're at it.

VIN info yielded: No start/stop implementation from factory. Built with a standard lead/acid wet cell battery (61AH/330A), conventional alternator with fixed voltage output. From my understanding that means there is nothing that could be coded relating to the battery.

Meassage me with your VIN and I can check what battery and charging system type it was built with, if you wish.

Only start/stop cars as far as I know, gearbox irrelevant.

I'll message you about getting a known good motor to you as a diagnostic aid.

I think mass means earth.

Needs a bit more cleaning on topside to see clearly, but possible short to ground plane here, which is the connection that is giving trouble, I think:

Skoda parts list two superseding part numbers, with latest being suffix-T by the looks of it: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5ta839015t-door-lock-rear-left-skoda-44668.html

The pins I mean :