Hi

Wonder if anybody has had this problem Changed headgasket on car ,and the car ran perfect for 2 weeks :yes: after ,But other day after 20 miles it cut out :'( and would turn over but not start until about half an hour later when it had cooled down abit,am suspecting temp sensor or thermostat but thought I would ask first before buying anything. has done this twice know. Cheers

If you can get it checked with vag-com it will tell you for certain if the temp sender needs sorting out. Is it possible there's an airlock in the system?

+1 for temperature sender. Check also that the temperature gauge on the dash is behaving itself. Should be no more than about £10 for a new sensor.

+1 for temperature sender. Check also that the temperature gauge on the dash is behaving itself. Should be no more than about £10 for a new sensor.

.Hi

Took out temp sender and saw thermostat housing had broken so fitted new thermostat housing and temp sender ,but still problem happens [cut out] when hot after 10 miles will tickover all day but i find it is when I acelerate it will cutout sometimes ,advice needed thanks

+1 for temperature sender. Check also that the temperature gauge on the dash is behaving itself. Should be no more than about £10 for a new sensor.

Hi

Took out temp sender and saw thermostat housing had broken so fitted new thermostat housing and temp sender ,but still problem happens [cut out] when hot after 10 miles will tickover all day but i find it is when I acelerate it will cutout sometimes ,advice needed thanks

Diagnostics might give a clue as to what's wrong. Could the throttle body need a clean and/or adaptation perhaps?

If you've just changed the head gasket and you are getting problems when a load is applied to the engine when hot, then that would perhaps then suggest to me a problem with the head gasket/cracked head etc. Maybe get a coolant pressure test and combustion chamber compression test. Do you see any signs of mayonnaise on the dipstick/oil filler cap or in the coolant header tank? Do you see oil or coolant loss?

If you've just changed the head gasket and you are getting problems when a load is applied to the engine when hot, then that would perhaps then suggest to me a problem with the head gasket/cracked head etc. Maybe get a coolant pressure test and combustion chamber compression test. Do you see any signs of mayonnaise on the dipstick/oil filler cap or in the coolant header tank? Do you see oil or coolant loss?

Hi

My coolant loss has been greatly reduced down from a litre of water every 25 miles to a 100 ml every 25 miles have changed water pump that was where initial water loss was then thermostat housing that was cracked ,then head gasket [bolts were very loose] and could smell exshaust fumes in coolant exspansion bottle plus mayo on oil cap. Know no mayo no more oil usage so am non plussed to problem but starting to get fed up with contiunally working and spending on car. Skoda dealer on island is next to useless so not realy wanting to take there hence I do work myself.

If you've just changed the head gasket and you are getting problems when a load is applied to the engine when hot, then that would perhaps then suggest to me a problem with the head gasket/cracked head etc. Maybe get a coolant pressure test and combustion chamber compression test. Do you see any signs of mayonnaise on the dipstick/oil filler cap or in the coolant header tank? Do you see oil or coolant loss?

The problem seems to only occur in 1st and 2nd gears [cutting out], no signs of mayonnaise very slight coolant usage still non plussed in direction to go.

When you did the head gasket, did you compress the oil out of the hydraulic lifters and replace any that showed signs of coolant contamination?

Can you hear the fuel pump prime, when it is in a non start condition?

When you did the head gasket, did you compress the oil out of the hydraulic lifters and replace any that showed signs of coolant contamination?

Can you hear the fuel pump prime, when it is in a non start condition?

Hi

When I did gasket replacement I did not replace any of the lifters none showed coolant contamination gasket had gone between cylinders ,also when Key is turned I can hear pump prime. as mentioned it cutts out in lower gears at lower revs ,Just not wanting to do more work till have a clue on fault and parts to buy. Thanks

I've had experience of an 8 valve cutting out and refusing to restart. This car had been into two garages previous to us and had cost the owner a lot of money. He told us if you can't fix it, I'm scrapping it. Reading the codes pointed to a central electrics fault, implausible voltage at terminal 15 (I think). We replaced a wire and other things started to happen, the oil pressure light would come on, even though the pressure was good when read from a gauge. We spent quite a time chasing faults, swapping parts from another car, it didn't make a difference.

In the end we concluded that it was an engine bay wiring loom fault, the downside was that new looms are approaching £1000. We managed to get a used loom for £200, fitted it and the car ran perfectly.

A scan of all the cars systems would help, also check the engine bay wiring loom where it exits the plenum chamber behind the ECU for signs of water ingress.

In the old days it could be caused by the High Tension Coil overheating with the spark to the distributor cap being interrupted.

Some High Tension coils had a capacitor attached which allowed the High Tension Coil to run at 9volts, and when it failed, the coil in time, would again overheat.

I know I know, I'm talking about bygone days, but along these lines with new fangled concepts there could be a slim similarity??

I've had experience of an 8 valve cutting out and refusing to restart. This car had been into two garages previous to us and had cost the owner a lot of money. He told us if you can't fix it, I'm scrapping it. Reading the codes pointed to a central electrics fault, implausible voltage at terminal 15 (I think). We replaced a wire and other things started to happen, the oil pressure light would come on, even though the pressure was good when read from a gauge. We spent quite a time chasing faults, swapping parts from another car, it didn't make a difference.

In the end we concluded that it was an engine bay wiring loom fault, the downside was that new looms are approaching £1000. We managed to get a used loom for £200, fitted it and the car ran perfectly.

A scan of all the cars systems would help, also check the engine bay wiring loom where it exits the plenum chamber behind the ECU for signs of water ingress.

Just before doing any think major thought I would check Carb so on checking looked a bit gummed up so gave it a real good clean with carb cleaner while wife revved engine then refitted everything and took it for a test drive car does not cut out but on hitting 4000 revs judders abit and a kind of slight clatter noise apart from that engine goes well any clues to probs.