I wonder if any of you regular posters out there can help me, I have a weird problem with my vRS. When in 3rd gear accelerating up a hill the car seems to loose power suddenly then pick up again. This only happens above 5000 rpm in 3rd gear. It definitely does not happen in 1st or 2nd but I have not tried and 4th or 5th because I would be going a bit quick for public roads. But this problem does not seem to happen very often and when it does, it does not backfire. When I look at the liquid gauge it seems to have dumped the pressure and builds it back up again sometimes it misfires 2 of 3 more times before I run out of hill, revs or road.

I have scanned the car for fault codes and it comes up clear.

My engine is slightly modified, here is a list

Forge re-circulating dump valve

Celtic tuning, tweaked stage 1 remap (214.6hp on the rollers and 248.6 lbft)

Liquid gauge

K and n panel filter.

I am thinking the symptoms could be caused by one of 3 things

1. Faulty remap

2. N249 system cutting in

3. turbo inlet pipe sucking together

Or, in the worst case maybe the turbo is on its way out

As usual any help or ideas will greatly be received. (and sorry for the poor spelling punctuation and grammar)

try cleaning the throttle body and checking for vac leak sounds very 17705 to me

or the map is to aggressive and the ecu is pulling back as you will be near peak figures at that rpm

Many thanks. As normal a very quick response.

Its greatly appreciated.

Dave

sounds interesting. how do i tell the difference between requested and actual boost?

Or rather what would it be called on the menu?

Yes i have just done that and when it miss fires the requested boost drops suddenly then goes back up before it drops again.

does sound like your dv might be activating. do the easy things first like n249 bypass. and see if you can borrow an n75 from someone

####For those people reading who have a liquid gauge requested boost is meant to be command boost####

I sent an email to celtic tuning explaing the fault. Here is the reply.

"I would need to log the vehicle on the dyno to be able to assist you, there are too many possible variables on these engines to say without testing."

I might try the n249 bypass. its a 2 hour drive for me.

this is the first picture i have posted. sorry if it does not work.

the car is happy untill -10s

the boost then drops and goes up and down until i lift off all together at about -4 seconds

the car was in third gear going up a hill at about 5500 rpm

IMO it's one of 4 things

Leaking vac or boost hose - this should throw a 17705 code though

Dodgy N75 valve or connection between the N75 valve and the actuator

Dodgy N249 valve

Remap

If you want to check the N75 valve there was another member on here who bought one recently and found they didn't need it so he might be able to post it to you to give it a try, then sell it to you if that is the fault?

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/162899-not-boosting-right-today/page__view__findpost__p__1998501

P.s. you don't need to do 5500rpm in third to get a boost reading, just hold it at 1500revs in 3rd then take it up to 4000rpm, the boost should have topped out by then (and you won't be doing 3 figure speeds )

Edited 4 June, 201016 yr by chicken_eyebrow

that is one of the problems chicken eyebrow. the fault only seems to happen in 3rd gear and only above 5000 rpm. thats why it is confusing me. any more ideas as i am sure i dont get the 17705 code up. it might happen in 4th or 5th but that would be silly speeds. i do know that it does not happen in 1st and 2nd. any ideas would be great.

cheers

Dave

Just a quick thought. I have been running my car on 95ron fuel. i will try running it on 97ron to see if this makes any difference.

IMO it's one of 4 things

Leaking vac or boost hose - this should throw a 17705 code though

Dodgy N75 valve or connection between the N75 valve and the actuator

Dodgy N249 valve

Remap

If you want to check the N75 valve there was another member on here who bought one recently and found they didn't need it so he might be able to post it to you to give it a try, then sell it to you if that is the fault?

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/162899-not-boosting-right-today/page__view__findpost__p__1998501

P.s. you don't need to do 5500rpm in third to get a boost reading, just hold it at 1500revs in 3rd then take it up to 4000rpm, the boost should have topped out by then (and you won't be doing 3 figure speeds )

iam willing to post the n75 to you if you want to try that

iam willing to post the n75 to you if you want to try that

http://www.awesome-gti.co.uk/product.php?xProd=13304&xSec=294

Try them two hoses

They are comon to fail

Sarah

Ideal sarah i might order a set of thoes as well as a forge TIP. any discount for buying both lol, only joking.

Will PM borris, very interested.

instead of buying them hoses just fit a catch can setup

those pipes from awesome are expensive for what they are imho

catch can setup cost around £100 and stops the oil contaminating the inlet tract and turbo

instead of buying them hoses just fit a catch can setup

those pipes from awesome are expensive for what they are imho

catch can setup cost around £100 and stops the oil contaminating the inlet tract and turbo

Mmm , maybe if you realise that the claw hose is nearly £29 + VAT on its own OEM , maybe you will realise that the sillicon ones , have to all but hand made , then they are fluro lines , so the oil does not eat in to them....maybe not as expensive as you first thought

Catch can....how much are they?

Sarah

You could probably do a catch can setup for £100-ish using an ebay special OCC and marine grade hosing.

If you want it too look shiney then you are looking around the £200-ish mark.

My Saikou Michi OCC cost around the £70-80 mark, 2 metres of Samco fluro lined 19mm hose were £120-ish, an alloy T piece from Bailey cost £10 and the 19mm stainless hose clips from Samco were £15-20 ish.

Depends on the look you are after

You could probably do a catch can setup for £100-ish using an ebay special OCC and marine grade hosing.

If you want it too look shiney then you are looking around the £200-ish mark.

My Saikou Michi OCC cost around the £70-80 mark, 2 metres of Samco fluro lined 19mm hose were £120-ish, an alloy T piece from Bailey cost £10 and the 19mm stainless hose clips from Samco were £15-20 ish.

Depends on the look you are after

How can our hoses be expensive when you paid £120 ish for 2 meters that is fluro lined?

Sarah

Mmm , maybe if you realise that the claw hose is nearly £29 + VAT on its own OEM , maybe you will realise that the sillicon ones , have to all but hand made , then they are fluro lines , so the oil does not eat in to them....maybe not as expensive as you first thought

Catch can....how much are they?

Sarah

I don't/didn't comment on how dear... or how cheap any company is. People have Google for that

I was answering the above.

And if you're gonna fit a catch can those pipes are no good.

All I was saying was you can fit an OCC for as little or as much as you want to pay.

And as for Samco's prices, what can ya do

I don't/didn't comment on how dear... or how cheap any company is. People have Google for that

I was answering the above.

And if you're gonna fit a catch can those pipes are no good.

All I was saying was you can fit an OCC for as little or as much as you want to pay.

And as for Samco's prices, what can ya do

Yes , they are expensive....but hey

Samco , SFS and Forge parts are quite expensive , but then they are quality bits

The fluro lining makes the prices that bit higher

Sarah