Hi All

New to this site and only recently purchased a Skoda Octavia VRS 59 plate with a bolero stereo unit.

I have an existing Parrot CK3100 Bluetooth Car Kit and after doing LOADS of research I have only ended up with so much conflicting information on the ISO adapters, cam-bus adapters etc required that I was hoping someone could give me a straight answer on what is required please?

Halfords want 125 quid to fit it and wont know if it will be any extra until they come to fit it.

Due to having the bolero head unit I have heard that there is no direct live feed to the stereo (?) so need to either run a cable to the fuse box or install something for the power to the stereo (??)

I have found the following two items from caraudiosecurity;

1 x PC2-75-4 - Skoda 2004> ISO Loom

1 x Skoda CAN-Bus adaptor

But really not confident that what Im buying is correct!

Another person told me that i do not need a cam bus adapter and the ONLY part i require is "KRAM 86200 SOT-976 PC000018AA / PC000006AA VW AUDI BMW"

Could someone help please?

Thanks

Edited 8 June, 201016 yr by liquidshokk

High I recently added a Subwoofer to my Bolero unit, since this radio has no line out I purchased the Kram 86200.

This same iso cable is also used to add a eg. Parrot ck3100, since you do not cut or solder any wires to the original harness.

The iso cable is connected to the car connector and the other end to the Bolero, the Parrot is than connected to

the various connectors in the newly added iso cable.

not sure if the Mute will work but next week I will be installing a parrot 3100 wiht the 86200 cable in my brothers

Yeti on the Bolero there is a mute connection so in the initial test phase I'm going to see if this works.

Than finally you need to connect the switched cable to the fuse box to the fuse which is swithed on by

the ignition key. (in the Yeti there is actually only one swithed fuse which I could find but it works perfectly)

so you need to purchase two items 1 the 86200 cable and 2 the Fuse holder

Next week I will let you know I we got the Bluetooth Nokia working on the Parrot 3100 via the Bolero.

Here the link of Kram

(enter 86200 in the search column and you will get some photo's etc.)

http://www.kram.dk/

rgds.

Edited 12 June, 201016 yr by Polypenko

Installed the Parrot CK3100 this week and it works like a charm.

did not even have to connect the Mute cable, the Nokia 2600 works perfectly.

Edited 9 July, 201015 yr by Polypenko

Installed the Parrot CK3100 this week and it works like a charm.

did not even have to connect the Mute cable, the Nokia 2600 works perfectly.

IIRC mute cable only provides a signal to radio to show mute on radio (it doesn't actually mute it), something inside the control box looks after muting the sterio.

TBH, I just got a dedicated live and switched live from the fuse box and also an earth from that area and connected only those three up to the parrot loom. I cut the rest off, apart from a mute which if used stops the CD/MP3 player in the unit from carrying on and pauses it. Otherwise it's just the parrot that does the mute.

Much cheaper than all these leads, no cutting of any wires and since the repair wire used was a matter of pence, I am guessing cheaper than a fuse break out thing.

Still, it works and you're happy so all good.

High I recently added a Subwoofer to my Bolero unit, since this radio has no line out I purchased the Kram 86200.

This same iso cable is also used to add a eg. Parrot ck3100, since you do not cut or solder any wires to the original harness.

The iso cable is connected to the car connector and the other end to the Bolero, the Parrot is than connected to

the various connectors in the newly added iso cable.

not sure if the Mute will work but next week I will be installing a parrot 3100 wiht the 86200 cable in my brothers

Yeti on the Bolero there is a mute connection so in the initial test phase I'm going to see if this works.

Than finally you need to connect the switched cable to the fuse box to the fuse which is swithed on by

the ignition key. (in the Yeti there is actually only one swithed fuse which I could find but it works perfectly)

so you need to purchase two items 1 the 86200 cable and 2 the Fuse holder

Next week I will let you know I we got the Bluetooth Nokia working on the Parrot 3100 via the Bolero.

Here the link of Kram

(enter 86200 in the search column and you will get some photo's etc.)

http://www.kram.dk/

rgds.

Well done! I did this a couple years ago. I bought the ck3100 and adaptor cable from Expansys UK. You don't need extra mute cable if you use the kit adaptor cable as when the phone rings the built-in relay switch will cut off sound signal from your head unit to the speaker and the ck3100 connect directly to the front speakers of your car. Installation diagram can be download from Parrot web site.

The major issue in my installation is "there is not enough room behind my factory Nav to house all cable". Also I have reverse camera adaptor and cable connected to the back of the Nav unit. I ended up cutting away some plastic structure at the back of the Nav unit to obtaine more room.

A couple weeks ago, I pulled out the CK3100 and install Parrot MKi9100. Parrot MKi9100 allows music streaming throught bluetooth. So I can play music from my PDA phone to the car speakers with good sound quality.

Edited 14 July, 201015 yr by Bobfido

Hi all I've been reading this with interest as I have a CK3100 to fit, I've done a mock set-up with the Columbus removed and apart from yet discovering a switched supply seems to work well (I temporary held the CK3100 switched cable to a 12V+ for experiment). Now I believe I need to get To my fusebox for the switched, is this the dash fuse box? Can anybody help indicate which fuse is the switched? I'll then be able to connect the switched. Many thanks

No sooner had I posted the jpg's appeared. All is well many thanks

Isnt the picture above from another car though? I need to do mine and don't have a multimeter so would appreciate if somone could tell me which fuse to use and what amp they used in the piggy back holder? Thanks

Edited 31 March, 201115 yr by zeffania

Isnt the picture above from another car though? I need to do mine and don't have a multimeter so would appreciate if somone could tell me which fuse to use and what amp they used in the piggy back holder? Thanks

is there a quick answer to this? I've this afternoon squeezed the Parrot CK3000 Evo from my old Octy into the new one and all I need to do now is to run the mic and switched 12V

I don't know what all the fuss is about space BTW. It's not too bad if you drop the original radio connector to the area behind the heater control (driver's side), then fit the conversion loom with the new radio connector emerging back up into the space where the original one now isn't. I've got the radio straight back in and all the additional wiring and boxes are in the space behind the heater controls

I piggy backed from the washers in the end. My fuse box had a near little key stuck to the plastic cover. Just chose something that was only available when the ignition was on. As for space I had to squeeze the connecting block to the side of the dash as I didn't have enough wiring to put it behind the climate control

I piggy backed from the washers in the end. My fuse box had a near little key stuck to the plastic cover. Just chose something that was only available when the ignition was on. As for space I had to squeeze the connecting block to the side of the dash as I didn't have enough wiring to put it behind the climate control

Cheers for that; having gone out to look, it looks like my best bet might be the auto gearbox 20 amp fuse holder which, as I've got a manual, it currently empty.

Best I but a holder then. Doesn't look like there's a lot of space there, mind.

Easiest was to sort it is to add the proper connector into the back of the fuse box. Any of the fused spaces on the left hand side are ignition supply and one side is already there. All you do is pop the back of the fuse box off, slide the purple plate in the back up and insert the terminal. Clips the plate back down and refit cap. You then have a factory spec connection.

Easiest was to sort it is to add the proper connector into the back of the fuse box. Any of the fused spaces on the left hand side are ignition supply and one side is already there. All you do is pop the back of the fuse box off, slide the purple plate in the back up and insert the terminal. Clips the plate back down and refit cap. You then have a factory spec connection.

I thought about that but in the limited time available I couldn't see how to get access to the back of the fuse box; the upper torx looks like it could be moved with a long-shafted torx driver (as opposed to a bit), but the bottom one isn't positioned in such an easy position. Hmmm.

Can leave the box where it is, with the lower dash trim removed just pop the back cover off the fuse box itself.

Can leave the box where it is, with the lower dash trim removed just pop the back cover off the fuse box itself.

Right... time to have another play.

Well, when it's light, stopped raining and I've finished fiddling with my motorbike anyway

Right... time to have another play.

Well, when it's light, stopped raining and I've finished fiddling with my motorbike anyway

So, looks like I've got it all in and got the red wire to the fuse box...

I can't quite get the fusebox off as my T20 drive isn't long enough, but I can get one of those tomorrow. What sort of connector do I need inside the fusebox? I'm sure it'll be a tiny little metal crimp on thing, but it would be nice to pick it up while I'm getting the Torx driver to save doing two trips

So, looks like I've got it all in and got the red wire to the fuse box...

I can't quite get the fusebox off as my T20 drive isn't long enough, but I can get one of those tomorrow. What sort of connector do I need inside the fusebox? I'm sure it'll be a tiny little metal crimp on thing, but it would be nice to pick it up while I'm getting the Torx driver to save doing two trips

so how did it go? any pics of exactly where you attached the rfed wire and was it fused?

so how did it go? any pics of exactly where you attached the rfed wire and was it fused?

Ah yes, good point - always a good idea to include the solution to the problem rather than just the question!

Remarkably simple in the end; the panel under the steering column comes off quite easily, as does the fuse cover of course. As with all jobs it's easier to do the second time and of course I did have to do it a second time as the first time I cocked it up.

Wanting to make sure I did it properly, I went to my local car hifi emporium to ask for advice on what connector I needed for the spade and they said that that was too complicated so they always piggybacked the car kits by soldering the wire onto a convenient point in the fusebox. I thanked them and left.

Still wanting to make sure I did it properly, I went to another local car hifi emporium (Motormods at Gotherington Cross) to ask for advice on what connector I needed for the spade and they said that that it required a particular crimp on connector and went and got me a couple from out the back. They went on to explain that when I'd got the fusebox unbolted and unclipped the back, that I'd need to slide the blue retaining panel to allow the connector to clip into place, and that to do that there'd a little latch that needs to be moved to the side. I thanked them heartily and went off home a happy chap.

The new circuit can be seen in the picture marked A. For some reason, the first time I tried I pushed it into the wrong opening <cough> and that can be seen at B

Reassembly is the reverse of taking it apart and so forth.

I put the controller here