in the hope (from reading other posts) this might cure some clonking, I'm going to change these. With an emphasis on idiot (cos I'll be doing it) does anyone have a simple step-by-step guide on how to do this (or indeed any tips)? Thanks, Stewart

Looking at them they seem simple enough but a guide would be useful

I shied away from doing mine but stood over my VW mechanic cousin as he changed them for me.

Seemed a simple case of:

undo bottom nut, undo top nut, remove drop link, put new drop link in, do up new top nut, do up new bottom nut, move to other side, repeat.

Biggest problem was that the bolt shaft comes loose and rotates with the spanner as you try to undo the nut (this looseness is (I think) what causes the clonking in the first place)

This lead to us (well him) spending 10 minutes trying to clamp the bolt and undo the nut and resulted in the breaking of a pair of molegrips

Once we (again he!) got them out all clonking was gone and we are back to silent suspension again

I'm thinking I might give this a go soon as have some rattly knocks that i know aren't the console bushes and are caused by un-even ground.. not bumps.

I was wondering, how loose should they be when "stock" and not worn.. because I went full lock both ways the other day to inspect them.. I couldn't move the passenger side one at all, It was replaced a little over a year ago after an argument with a kerb, so the drivers side wasn't... but I could twist (like a bike throttle) the drivers side?

Does that mean it's FUBR? Or will there be some movement when in certain positions?

PastyBoy, When you say the bolt shaft comes loose.. and this causes the problems.. I'm assuming this is part of the drop link.. and not a part that remains on the car when you replace?

Taa

Edited 26 August, 201015 yr by Rob.

Sounds like you have the same problem i did Rob

Pot holes and speed humps = nothing

rough ground or lateral movements = the most annoying knocking noise ever!

I even changed the Front ARB to try to sort it but to no avail. Drop links was all that was left.

I cranked my steering lock right over and gave the links a good pulling and mine had a bit of movement (i could kind of feel them popping when i pulled on them) and as far as i know they shouldn't be moveable by hand

As said many many times before i'm no mechanic however here's whay understood from when it was explained to me in laymans terms by my tame mechanic:

This is a camper van link but looks the same as the fabia one

basically the bolts & nuts at either end attach to the car.

The bolt housing has a certain amount of give thanks to the rubber bush to give the movement require for the link to do it's job

the bolts themsleves howveer can come inside the housing loose leading to the knocking noise.

If they come detatched completely it means they can rotate indside the housing meaning you can't undo the nut

Made even more likely given that the end of the bolt thread remains exposed to the worst of all weather/salt/dirt from the road.

That's what happened to mine it undid fine until 2 threads from the end when it jammed due to the corrosion.

If they undo and come off then it's a simple job

If the bolts come detatched and rotate in the housing it'll take some serious clamping to stop the bolt rotating so you can undo the nut

HTH

PS - i addd my normal disclaimer of not being a mechanic and the above possibly being complete and utter bunkum!

Edited 26 August, 201015 yr by PastyBoy

If you have Std Drop links in atm then you should have a Torques hole in the threaded part of the link.

Pop a spanner over the nut - put your correct size T bit in the hole - and undo!

i still need to do mine but im unsure on what to go for?! i hear mondo ones are the correct size for a lower car

Thanks people. Got the Meyle ones today (from Express Parts), look much more man for the job. And yes, the threaded bolt will take a torx bit at the end to hold the bolt while you undo the nut. Well that's the theory.....

What a satisfying little job. Give the old parts a good squirt of WD40 first. Impressed with the Meyle parts. An Allen key will hold the bolt while you tighten the nut. The old parts weren't obviously or visibly worn but what a difference the new ones make. Can hear all the other clonks so much easier now

Are the Meyle ones good quality as i am going to order some as i have the dreaded knocking clonking sound and going have to get it sorted soon as its starting to annoy me slightly.

Are the Meyle ones good quality as i am going to order some as i have the dreaded knocking clonking sound and going have to get it sorted soon as its starting to annoy me slightly.

See these comments

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/174105-fabia-vrs-drop-links/page__view__findpost__p__2104600__hl__meyle%20hd__fromsearch__1

I'm pleased with mine so far....

See these comments

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/174105-fabia-vrs-drop-links/page__view__findpost__p__2104600__hl__meyle%20hd__fromsearch__1

I'm pleased with mine so far....

Thanks for that. Ordered mine, just waiting for delivery!