VRS running rough when cold...

[DanBoy]

I need a bit of advice.

Whenever I start my VRS from cold its very very rough idling, then when you try to drive its very jumpy and really doesn't like going, once its warmed up its fine. This morning was the worst as it just didn't want to move, it won't stall but was just very jumpy and unwilling to pull away smoothly.

Any ideas what could be causing this??

[chicken_eyebrow]

Uh oh another kitten just died!

There is a cold start process on these cars of about 90 seconds, if you drive it before the revs drop down and settle then it can kangaroo because the variable valve system is still working.

If it feels even worse than that then I'd get it fault code scanned and look at either air/vac leaks or the coolant temperature sensor, both affect the cold idling.

[Bowders1]

I need a bit of advice.

Whenever I start my VRS from cold its very very rough idling, then when you try to drive its very jumpy and really doesn't like going, once its warmed up its fine. This morning was the worst as it just didn't want to move, it won't stall but was just very jumpy and unwilling to pull away smoothly.

Any ideas what could be causing this??

Probably is the Temp sensor that is faulty. It trigger's the correct fuel / air mix for cold starting. Effectively when the sensor fails it thinks the car is warm and thus does not inject extra fuel for cold start up, so your car feels lumpy until it warms up.

Pic here of the temp sensor (green thingy) found on the gearbox side of the engine block under the engine covers.

Easy to replace. Just unplug the sensor and then remove the circlip holding it in place(will loose a little coolant)

Cost approx £20

Part number 059 919 501A

[The Ors]

Probably is the Temp sensor that is faulty. It trigger's the correct fuel / air mix for cold starting. Effectively when the sensor fails it thinks the car is warm and thus does not inject extra fuel for cold start up, so your car feels lumpy until it warms up.

Easy to replace. Just unplug the sensor and then remove the circlip holding it in place(will loose a little coolant)

Cost approx £20

Part number 059 919 501A

I have exactly the same symptoms. Does anyone know what to expect from this sensor in terms of resistance cold/hot if I measure it with a DVM. I'd like to confirm it's duff before I shell out for a new one.

Thanks

Darren

[thomj42]

I've had exactly the same issue on mine for the last 20,000 miles or so. Initially I got an engine light which turned out to be a dodgy Lamda sensor, but that was replaced and the problem never went away. I wrote it off as one of those little vRS quirks :p

[mikey vrs]

My mk 1 vrs used to do this & i cleaned out the trottle body & replaced the fuel filter & it was like driving a different car after this.

[ToeRok]

Lol six years on!!

Mines been rough idling for the last few weeks...my local garage said it was a dirty MAF but then after a day it was driving terribly no power over 4000rpm. So I changed the MAF all together, still idling rough (about 800rpm). Power delivery has improved but still doesn't feel right.I've noticed this morning that when the heating is on the car idles better?!?! Any ideas guys???

I'm gonna do throttle body service and coolant temp sensor change this weekend.

[kentphil1]

Was it a genuine MAF?, or a pattern part, this is a fussy item to buy aftermarket, the ebay ones don't have the quality of endurance that the Bosch OEM units have.

 

Where does the car settle on the temp gauge when it is warm?. When were the plugs and coils last checked or renewed?.

 

The throttle body service is a good plan, just make sure the gasket is in good order when you refit the unit to the car.

 

Have you checked all your vacuum and breather hoses are serviceable?.

 

No power over 4000, would suggest you may be running short of fuel, when was the fuel filter last changed?, also you could check that the turbo actuator is free to move as well.

[ToeRok]

Thanks for the reply!

The temperature sets bang on 90 and doesn't drop. Genuine MAF was installed.

I've got a new gasket for the TB so will change when I clean it. I've got an uprated silicone hose for TB to intercooler to fit.

Coil Pack was only changed last year...

She's due a service soon at AMD so I'll probably get them to do a diagnostic if I can't resolve. I'll check on the fuel filter.

I do get power over 4000rpm but seems like flat spots, hard to explain.

I've had a check on the hoses but can see anything obvious and no warning lights.

I'm no mechanic but am willing to have a little fiddle lol

Edited 14 April, 2016 by ToeRok