He will be carrying out a water test tomorrow.

However he has already told me that the boot seems to be moist....

Only had the car a few days and rear doors are leaking and now apparently the boot

What are the chances the seals are failing???

He will be carrying out a water test tomorrow.

However he has already told me that the boot seems to be moist....

Only had the car a few days and rear doors are leaking and now apparently the boot

What are the chances the seals are failing???

More likely the seals aroud the back lights rather than the hatch seal itself.

I bought a pair of pattern part facelift rear lights for my old furby and the seal was a terrible match and leaked like a sieve - you could see teh gaps. I ended up putting a generous amount of silicon around the seal and that sorted it.

This is copied from a reply of mine to an older related post - a couple of other possible leak sources:

If you're suffering regular condensation problems and your door seals and screen washers check out ok, it's worth looking in the spare wheel well. I found that water collects here if you've got a leak - in my case the cause was one of the two stale air vents on the rear scuttle (behind the bumper) being slightly misaligned. The clips holding the vent trims are pretty dodgy and easily displaced if you happen to catch them when removing the spare, for example. You can remove and re-fit a vent carefully from inside the boot by keeping hold of it as you release the clips, then twist the vent to remove it through the aperture. Don't let go or you'll probably need to remove the rear bumper to retrieve it, though!!!! If the clips are broken a new vent costs about £7 and the new (improved?) ones seem to be a more positive fit, without a separate seal. Another leak source can be the panel seal under the tailgate hinge cut-outs at the rear of the roof panel - as again I have experienced - but I suspect this is not common. Funnily enough, mine started after some really cold weather a year or so ago and I reckon it was expanding ice that cracked the joint. If you do suffer from this you will probably find a wet boot carpet caused by water running down the inside of the 'C' pillars. I successfully cured mine by drying out the joint thoroughly and putting a bead of sealant along the joint on the inside rear edge of the cut-outs. Hope this helps someone!

Rear wash wipe working okay?

They sometimes pop apart somewhere along the hose

and screenwash can enter the car back there.

There's a union... ( A T piece I think..) That often pops open.

Usually pops open when the weathers very cold and

the screenwash has frozen in the pipes and you try to

use the washers..

It's very important to use a decent strength solution of

quality screenwash to prevent freezing in the pipes.

There is a pukka VW approved for fan washered cars

Or halfords do a decent one. (it's yellow ) Which I've used and is ok.

I've seen many a person using washing up liquid

over the years.

Using soap or even worse, nothing Could start algae/crud forming

in the pipes. The water will stagnate without a spirit based additive.

(not to mention freeze in winter... )

Gunge build up can block the pipes and also cause the union to pop.

Give that a look... Loads of threads about it on here.

Edited 11 September, 201015 yr by grr666

Gaz, Just to clear up any confusion, G12(+) is the antifreeze/coolant and not screenwash!

We don't want anybody using it in their washer bottle, Do we!

Gaz, Just to clear up any confusion, G12(+) is the antifreeze/coolant and not screenwash!

We don't want anybody using it in their washer bottle, Do we!

Whoops, I just realised this myself and was coming back to remove the dodgy info...

Thanks Mike...