Finally sorted annoying knocking!

[mattymoo]

Hello all, thought it's about time I had a bit of input to the fantastic forum. Been using it for years and wanted to share the joy but on the same note not teaching people how to suck eggs!

I've had an irritating noise and knocking feel through the steering wheel ever since ive owned the car. Only seems to occur over sharp smaller bumps but never the less is constantly there and bloody annoying.

I have tried all the usual on here as suggested, drop links, bushes, front rad, arb but have finally cracked it.

I urge everyone out there to CHECK YOUR FRONT SUSPENSION TOP MOUNT BEARING.

Just changed them today and there was loads of play in the old ones. Got back after a test run and can confirm it is cured 100%.

Including bearings and rubber mounts from GSF it cost 25 quid and worth every penny. Took about three hours due to sticking parts etc but well worth doing if u have time.

If anyone needs part numbers then I'll find them and post it asap.

[Aaquil]

Well happy for you mate it great when you fix an irritating problem! How do you check them ad how do you know if they are gone? Easy job to replace?

[mattymoo]

I only knew it was that as I'd changed pretty much everything else! For the sake of 25 quid and a bit of sweat, well worth it. You'll only know how bad they really are when you inspect them on removal. If the bearings appear loose in the runners then i would suggest changing them. There should be no play at all and it should turn smoothly.

I jacked the car up, chocked the rear tyre and axle stand as normal. Then removed the wheel.

Fitted spring compressors and wound them up. Removed the upper tie bar nut and the lower shocker nut and bolt.

Then carefully removed sensor plug (if fitted) and brake line clips and pushed to the side.

Spray the lower shock with release agent or WD40 when it enters the wheel hub.

Wait a short while for the release agent to soak in then try to manipulate the shock absorber out of the hub with whatever you can. I used a big f@#* off hammer but obviously take care where you strike. One side was a pain in the backside, the other came apart with no problem at all. Always the way!

The key really is to use good spring compressors and make sure you have taken back all of the strain out of the springs. Persevere and take care not to damage the shock absorber itself and any other surrounding parts.

After you have separated the wheel hub and the shock absorber, you need to release the upper mount from the strut turret.

Pop the bonnet and removed the plastic cover if fitted, this just pulls off.

Then you will use a gooseneck spanner to get into the top. 99% it was a 21mm, can't remember the allen socket size. If you don't have the correct angled gooseneck spanner, nothing else will fit, trust me. You'll see what I mean when you look and pliers just won't hold it!

Unwind the nut whilst keeping the shock absorber piston in place using the allen socket/key. Once loose, secure the whole shock absorber assembly with one hand whilst you fully untwist the top nut with the other.

If possible, place the full shock absorber in a workbench vice and pull off the rubber top mount, this may be well stuck on but will come off with a good pull.

At this point make sure that the spring is compressed to the point where it is loose within its housing.

Then remove the top retaining nut with the allen key and 21mm spanner, followed by the bearing.

Observe and rejoice at finally finding the cause of the bloody annoying knock.

Then in true Haynes manual styley, rebuild in reverse order.

I want to appologise if people are reading this thinking 'what a dumb a@@, so obvious' but if it can help somebody else out there it would be useful i recon as I couldn't find any topic on this throughout the site. Oh and please don't blame me if your spring compressors are rubbish and you loose half of your face when you release the top bearing nut!

[Aaquil]

OK! I think I would leave that to the experts!!!

[mbames]

Spray the lower shock with release agent or WD40 when it enters the wheel hub.

Wait a short while for the release agent to soak in then try to manipulate the shock absorber out of the hub with whatever you can. I used a big f@#* off hammer but obviously take care where you strike. One side was a pain in the backside, the other came apart with no problem at all. Always the way!

I found that using an allen key on a socket drive did wonders from parting the hub carrier from the shock did wonders (and looks rather similar to the official VAG tool).

[Bomi]

Mattymoo, was reading your thread because I wanted to search for a solution to my problem. My vRS has clocked 49K KMs and when I drive over cobble-stones or a broken road, I can feel up-down play in the steering wheel and also hear a knocking sound. Its absoluteley fine on a smooth road. A friend suggested it couuld be tie-rod ends or ball joint. Did you have a simailar problem which was solved by changing the front suspension top mount bearings?

[mattymoo]

Yes mate all sorted. It was clear to see the cause when i fitted new ones too. The play in the old bearings was massive. Didn't cost too much, just a little time to sort. Replaced pretty much everything else except the steering rack too. Love the car but hated this fault so chuffed to bits it's sorted now!