Brilliant, thanks for that.

I will have a go tomorrow and feed back,

Andy

It should say relay in position 3, but you already know which one it is.

OK, I have done as you have suggested:

Disconnected both light fittings in the boot;

connected a long piece of wire from the red and blue wire to the negative probe of the multimeter;

connected a shorter piece of wire to pin 15 and the positive probe of the multimeter;

made sure that the key was in the ignition, lights on and boot open and taken measurements.

Whatever position I set the multimeter for on resistance, it is always reading "1" (which is supposed to indicate that this is an over range situation), but does briefly show a reading of 4.86 as I switch between ranges. When testing just a short piece of wire on its own (not connected to anything else), I get a reading of 0.01. It does say in the instructions for the multimeter "Always make sure that power to the circuit is switched off before testing for resistance and always ensure that capacitors are fully discharged", so I don't know if I have been doing the right thing with having the key in and lights switched on?

Should I conclude from this that the "relay" is working as it should and that I should now be looking elsewhere?

Thanks,

Andy

OK, I have done as you have suggested:

Disconnected both light fittings in the boot;

connected a long piece of wire from the red and blue wire to the negative probe of the multimeter;

connected a shorter piece of wire to pin 15 and the positive probe of the multimeter;

made sure that the key was in the ignition, lights on and boot open and taken measurements.

Whatever position I set the multimeter for on resistance, it is always reading "1" (which is supposed to indicate that this is an over range situation), but does briefly show a reading of 4.86 as I switch between ranges. When testing just a short piece of wire on its own (not connected to anything else), I get a reading of 0.01. It does say in the instructions for the multimeter "Always make sure that power to the circuit is switched off before testing for resistance and always ensure that capacitors are fully discharged", so I don't know if I have been doing the right thing with having the key in and lights switched on?

Should I conclude from this that the "relay" is working as it should and that I should now be looking elsewhere?

Thanks,

Andy

If you unplugged BOTH the light units at the rear, then there is no voltage or electronic devices in the circuit. You unplugged the relay at the other end, so you were just testing a piece of wire.

Provided you made a good connection with the Red/Blue contact at the light end and a good connection with with the contact in 'hole 15', then it is a break in the wiring (as indicated by '1' on the meter)

I would give it another go to be sure.

I'm sure you said you traced the wiring. Wherever you found a connection, do the same test (with wire connected to the light end of the circuit).

If you unplugged BOTH the light units at the rear, then there is no voltage or electronic devices in the circuit. You unplugged the relay at the other end, so you were just testing a piece of wire.

Provided you made a good connection with the Red/Blue contact at the light end and a good connection with with the contact in 'hole 15', then it is a break in the wiring (as indicated by '1' on the meter)

I would give it another go to be sure.

I'm sure you said you traced the wiring. Wherever you found a connection, do the same test (with wire connected to the light end of the circuit).

Maybe I misunderstood what I was supposed to do, as the way I tested it was to put the wire through the hole in the pin in the relay and then plug this in and then carry out the test. Was I just suposed th be putting the wire into hole 15 without plugging in the relay, if so, this is what I'll do.

As yet I haven't traced the wire back to this point as I don't want to remove loads of trim if I don't have to. I am assuming that the wire is directed via the nearside of the car?

Thanks,

Andy

Maybe I misunderstood what I was supposed to do, as the way I tested it was to put the wire through the hole in the pin in the relay and then plug this in and then carry out the test. Was I just suposed th be putting the wire into hole 15 without plugging in the relay, if so, this is what I'll do.

As yet I haven't traced the wire back to this point as I don't want to remove loads of trim if I don't have to. I am assuming that the wire is directed via the nearside of the car?

Thanks,

Andy

Hi Andy,

Yes just put the wire in the hole. This test is checking for faults in the wiring to the lamps.

You can do the other test too. That test is to see if the relay is OK. Make sure you follow the instructions in #19 as the probe connections are different. You need to be on volts for that test.

Hi Andy,

Yes just put the wire in the hole. This test is checking for faults in the wiring to the lamps.

You can do the other test too. That test is to see if the relay is OK. Make sure you follow the instructions in #19 as the probe connections are different. You need to be on volts for that test.

OK, confusion over!

I have now tested by putting the wire into pin 15 and I do not get any reading for resistance (1, which means over range or in this case a very high resistance). So this must mean that there is a break or poor connection in the wire somewhere.

I have also tested to see if the relay is working, as in #19 and I can confirm that it is as I am getting a reading of nearly 12V. For this, I used the earth connections for each of the courtesy lamps, so I can confirm that these are also fine.

So I am now left with either a broken wire or a poor connection (I think?). I know that the red and blue wire runs down the nearside of the car, but where am I expecting to find connectors, if I am at all?

Does it connect to the central convenience unit?

What should I go taking apart to look for it?

I really hope that it does not somehow travel via doors for some reason and if that is the case, wouldn't I be better off running a new wire instead?

Thanks again for your patience with this!

Andy

You have confirmed that the relay is working and that there is a break in the wire between the relay and the lamps.

Running a wire is an option, but it can be more difficult than repairing a short break

I'll upload some pics after I've had my lunch.

Here are some pics that should help as you check the wire. The pics are from a hatch, so there may be slight differences

This is the trim piece below the glovebox in the passenger footwell.

Remove the cover A to reveal the two screws B. Behind C is the clip that holds trim in place.

This is what is behind it. Note the hidden clip C. Pull the trim away from the clip.

The loom runs in the upper sill. Pull up the seal D. Next Pull up the trim E. Push the carpet F to reveal loom G which runs in upper sill until level with the rear seat backrests.

Remove this trim piece . Unscrew the button nuts H. Remove screw I (it's easy to miss this one). Next pull the up the seal J.

The trim piece looks like this when removed.

Here is the loom K behind it

Here is where the cables enter the bootspace. Note the connector where the arrow is.

Here are some pics that should help as you check the wire. The pics are from a hatch, so there may be slight differences

This is the trim piece below the glovebox in the passenger footwell.

Remove the cover A to reveal the two screws B. Behind C is the clip that holds trim in place.

This is what is behind it. Note the hidden clip C. Pull the trim away from the clip.

The loom runs in the upper sill. Pull up the seal D. Next Pull up the trim E. Push the carpet F to reveal loom G which runs in upper sill until level with the rear seat backrests.

Remove this trim piece . Unscrew the button nuts H. Remove screw I (it's easy to miss this one). Next pull the up the seal J.

The trim piece looks like this when removed.

Here is the loom K behind it

Here is where the cables enter the bootspace. Note the connector where the arrow is.

Thanks again for all of the info. that certainly gives me a good idea about what I am going to have to remove to address this problem.

Do you know if connector (I) involves the red and blue live feed for the lights? If that is the same as mine, it is a connector that holds together 4 earths in a long rubber sleeve. The wires in mine were very corroded due to leaking washer fluid, so I cleaned them up and reattached them using male and female connectors, so I am assuming that this is not my problem.

Do you know if the red and blue lead is routed through any of the plugs shown in your last picture as these had also become very wet due to washer fluid?

To check the continuity of the wire am I going to have to strip small sections of wire at strategic places to be able to find this break?

Thanks,

Andy

Thanks again for all of the info. that certainly gives me a good idea about what I am going to have to remove to address this problem.

Do you know if connector (I) involves the red and blue live feed for the lights? If that is the same as mine, it is a connector that holds together 4 earths in a long rubber sleeve. The wires in mine were very corroded due to leaking washer fluid, so I cleaned them up and reattached them using male and female connectors, so I am assuming that this is not my problem.

Do you know if the red and blue lead is routed through any of the plugs shown in your last picture as these had also become very wet due to washer fluid?

To check the continuity of the wire am I going to have to strip small sections of wire at strategic places to be able to find this break?

Thanks,

Andy

The problem is with the red/blue wire which is not routed through the connectors in the last picture. In the last picture there is a crimp where the arrow is. There will be a connection of some type between the loom where it enters the bootspace and the light fittings.

Start at the lamp fitting and follow the cable forward, measuring the resistance as you go. If you find a connector don't be afraid to give the cable a tug.

The problem is with the red/blue wire which is not routed through the connectors in the last picture. In the last picture there is a crimp where the arrow is. There will be a connection of some type between the loom where it enters the bootspace and the light fittings.

Start at the lamp fitting and follow the cable forward, measuring the resistance as you go. If you find a connector don't be afraid to give the cable a tug.

DONE!!

Thanks ever so much for all of your help and patience - I am sure that you have saved me a pretty penny as I was going to ask for it to be looked at when I next took the car in.

It feels very cheeky and arse about face, but would you mind providing me with the information I need to go about removing and cleaning my full beam / cruise control switch?

Andy

Edited 26 October, 201015 yr by andyseatrout

DONE!!

Thanks ever so much for all of your help and patience - I am sure that you have saved me a pretty penny as I was going to ask for it to be looked at when I next took the car in.

It feels very cheek and arse about face, but would you mind providing me with the information I need to go about removing and cleaning my full beam / cruise control switch?

Andy

Great news!

OK - headlights...

Do you get the problem if you flash your lights, or is it only when you latch the high-beam on by pushing the stalk forward?

Great news!

OK - headlights...

Do you get the problem if you flash your lights, or is it only when you latch the high-beam on by pushing the stalk forward?

I am pretty sure that it is only when I push the stalk forward .....

I am pretty sure that it is only when I push the stalk forward .....

Good. This means that it is the stalk.

If you follow the instructions below, you should be able to get some WD40 to the correct part of the switch, without removing the stalk.

In the pic you can see a LH Stalk showing where to put the plastic tube from the can. With the ignition off, you need to pull the stalk all the way up (indicate right) so it latches. Pull the stalk forward (flash lights) and push the tube in about an inch (see pic - remember you're looking from the back). Connect the can and give it a 2 second blast. Remove the tube. Move the stalk between the forward (latched high-beam) and middle (dipped beam) positions at least 20 times.

Good. This means that it is the stalk.

If you follow the instructions below, you should be able to get some WD40 to the correct part of the switch, without removing the stalk.

In the pic you can see a LH Stalk showing where to put the plastic tube from the can. With the ignition off, you need to pull the stalk all the way up (indicate right) so it latches. Pull the stalk forward (flash lights) and push the tube in about an inch (see pic - remember you're looking from the back). Connect the can and give it a 2 second blast. Remove the tube. Move the stalk between the forward (latched high-beam) and middle (dipped beam) positions at least 20 times.

That seems to have sorted that problem too!

Thanks ever so much for all your help.

Andy

That seems to have sorted that problem too!

Thanks ever so much for all your help.

Andy

Great news!

Replacing the stalk is a PITA and the cruise stalk is not exactly cheap.

Hi all,

Fist post on here, I hope i'm not hijacking this thread..

I noticed my boot puddle due to the washer about 4 months back. I put the washer hose back together and taped it up thinking the story was over..

Turns out it got my wiring too so I had a fun weekend this weekend

As you can see these are a bit kaput! I barely touched them but there was no going back.

Went to maplins for some of these.. http://www.maplin.co...tery-connectors

although you could use these.. http://www.maplin.co...ower-connectors

I cut the cables and had to sand the wires abit to expose the untreated clean copper, soldered and taped up..

finished result..

Its not pretty but I can open my boot again now.

Just two more connectors to check and maybe replace. Don't want to touch them yet but i'm guessing something will go soon.