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About to fit after market central locking kit. Source power from fuse box or direct battery feed?

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So I've just bought an after market remote central locking kit which i'll be fitting in the next few days. The schematics for the kit suggest fusing the positive power feed with 25amp fuse. Based on that would it be unwise for me to take a feed from the in cabin fuse box (I have in the past connected small things to the fuse box such as extra 12v sockets.)?

I will also be fitting a sub in the boot which will have a dedicated power feed straight from the battery. I'd prefer not to have too many added wires through the firewall so if the fuse box connection can cope it prefer that.

So I've just bought an after market remote central locking kit which i'll be fitting in the next few days. The schematics for the kit suggest fusing the positive power feed with 25amp fuse. Based on that would it be unwise for me to take a feed from the in cabin fuse box (I have in the past connected small things to the fuse box such as extra 12v sockets.)?

I will also be fitting a sub in the boot which will have a dedicated power feed straight from the battery. I'd prefer not to have too many added wires through the firewall so if the fuse box connection can cope it prefer that.

An existing idea /guide exists -http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/172084-felicia-remote-central-locking-guide/, by RobinSLXi, and looking at Haynes, the factory fit unit has F16 (15a) as supply for the unit.

Edited by VWD

There's at least 30A available from the fusebox (the indicators/rear window heater circuit is rated thus). Plus I'm pretty sure the fat one at the top right is the other end of the battery lead, so another eyelet terminal on that might be the crude direct option (not sure I'd really recommend that though)

I'm assuming you've already got factory-fit central locking and are just adding the remote upgrade, in which case fuse 16 mentioned above is for the central locking motors, but unless you have electric windows position 18 (the 'accessory' fuse) should be completely free. The Skoda accessory kit I fitted uses a 15A fuse in this position, but I imagine you could use 25A instead. Both this and a switched live are taken from connector C (the green 6-pin one on the right). The aforementioned thread should cover everything else you may need - lock/unlock wires, door contacts, indicators. If necessary I'm happy to get back in there and poke around with a multimeter if you need any clarification. If you're fitting a whole kit, motors and all, then you may as well follow the factory layout and take the permanent feed from pin 9 of connector BD (6th plug from the left, black on mine), which is where the fuse 16 circuit comes out.

I'm not sure if it's useful or not but there's already some power available at the back end - a switched 20A feed off the X contact relay for the wiper motor's run-on circuit, and cars with an automatic boot light (post-facelift GLX estates and I don't know what else) have a permanent live feed for that, but I don't know where that one originates or what its current rating is. I know TeflonTom has a bunch of factory current flow diagrams so more information may be forthcoming ;)

Robin - got my hands on FELLY today ,and a quick look at the boot release confirms that it's exactly as Furby. ( If you haven't tried any ideasout ) . Know you were looking at ideas .The spare input ( for LH drive vehicles) accepts a cycle end ( same thread and size) .I got round problems using a spring on the catch,with a cut pop rivit held in place with a plastic gromet .So far it's lasted over three years ( daily opening ),and Id suggest that there's room for a door motor behing/underneath the catch area .

Now - mine has had radio removed, but the plug still sits behind. Thing that bothers me is that none of the wiring going to the radio plug is particularly heavy, but Haynes shows Radio fed to pins 7 & 4 via a 30A fuse , but on first page, radio is fed via F22( 7.5A) ,which also does the cigar lighter ( improbable to me) & LH SIDE/TAIL LAMP.Whilst on same page , only 30A fuse in box supplies rearscreen heater ( Probable) .So come on TT- WHICH PAGE IS TELLING PORKIES .

Edited by VWD

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