Hey Guys - have been updating this in the Octavia II thread but thought it better in here in more detail.

If you check my sig you can see the website for my silly big sound off competition car called Project Big Black - I drive a lot for work and love my music so decided to put a little bit of bass in the company car. It arrived on Friday and on Saturday I started work!

The kit going in is

A Kenwood KDC7544 Headunit (With iPod Connection)

SPL Dynamics TD-602 Coaxial Speakers for the front doors

Audiocontrol System 90 amp/bass EQ combo (a 2x100wrms amp with built in digital bass restoration) to amp the front door speakers

Soundstream Granite 60.2 2x30wrms amplifier for the OEM speakers in the back

Ground Zero GZNA2800XII

2 x Ground Zero Nuclear 12" subwoofers

Tsunami Signal and Power Cables, Connects2 speaker adaptors, Connects2 speaker wiring loom, and Connect2 dash surround

Start with one Box Fresh FL VRS in Candy White - 8 miles on the clock!

Remove the door cards (big thanks to humsk for THIS guide to the door card removal - worked a treat and had NO snapped clips!)

Im sure the use of the red trim removal tools helped make sure nothing got snapped or broken - a very worthwhile investment especially on a brand spanker!

Drilled out the rivets holding the OEM speaker in then popped them through

Mounted the new speakers to the adaptor and then using self tappers to mount it all to the door

Next I needed to run 0awg power cable - having done this in an A3 and Seat Leon I knew the quickest way was through the bulkhead behind the battery. So needed to remove the glovebox and the battery for easy access

The target for the cable

to pass the cable through I taped it to a steel coat hanger and covered it with WD40 and pushed

et voilà! one cable protected by the OEM grommet

The power then ran down the passengers side of the car with the speaker,rca and remote cables

Trim all back on

Then I tackled the Stock Bolero HU

All the cables came up through the dash no problems - you can see the white speaker cables (rather than running speaker cables into the doors I am just tapping into the factory loom via a modified quadlock adaptor, im not running massive power so utilising what is already there made it much simpler

took the climate control panel off to allow me to run the sub cable for my Ipod into the lower centre console cubby hole

Then all back together

All of the cables ran into the boot

I cut a template out to fit the wheel well and test fitted the amps

Then cut the MDF

Was thinking about how best to secure the board to the wheel well floor on a temporary basis - one thought I had was getting hold of an OEM retaining bolt from skoda but being attached to my kidneys i didnt want to sell one for the sake of it so in lookin in my toolbox found a nice wide flat headed bolt that fitted nicely in the recess

Place some blocks of wood under the board to bring it up level (due to the spare wheel bracket not sitting flush with the wheel well bottom - drilled a hole in the board - lined up the bolt and dropped it on

at this point I reminded myself over and over that this was an earth point (so as to avoid any accidents when I started running the power cables) - but not a good enough one for the whole system , for that i took some sand paper to the slam panel trim mounting bolts, down to baremetal

some washer to ensure secure contact then bolted it back up

I then mounted the amps and the power connectors

and all wired up

I am still waiting on delivery of the subwoofer amp but picked up the sub box last night - It just fits between the arches so a great fit

Once the amp arrives I will be adding a 2nd battery and wiring in the amp - eyes peeled for more updates

First impressions are great - its loud and clear - I have some cross overs built into the amps Im using so midbass is lacking (more for the protection of the OEM speakers and due to the lack of sound deading) I have also kept the Stock tweeters wired in so that the stage isnt dragged back too much - I like it a lot

With the subs in im hoping to do 145db - Im taking it to Belgium for a competition in December

Edited 1 November, 201015 yr by thejoose

Not sure if anyone is interested but My sub amp arrived today, its a Ground Zero GZNA2800XII

its a bit of a beast -

2 x 1200wrms @ 1ohm per channel (for music it will play fine at 0.5ohm per channel)

or 1 x 2400wrms @ 2ohm

Edited 4 November, 201015 yr by thejoose

I'm interested

Awesome shizzle there dude, looks like the ground retaining nut is plastic though?

Edited 7 November, 201015 yr by TomGG

I'm interested

Awesome shizzle there dude, looks like the ground retaining nut is plastic though?

Yup it is - but its only job is to press the crimp agaisnt the bare metal underneath - there is a washer pressed flat against the bare metal work then the crimp then the nut compresses it all for a good contact

update from yesterday

Well its all in and sounding gooooood

Discovered that the Epic/Amp Combo doesnt output an epicentered signal to the RCAs - it only Epics its amplified speaker outputs so im down a pair for front speakers hehe WHOOPS!

The finished article

And behind the trim panel is the ratched strap holding it all down

The business side

The GZNA2800XII is about a 1.5 times the size of the 2500s in big black - its certainly a beast - as you can see i got a pair of shuriken bt100s in as well - I had them lying around so might as well use em

It certainly shifts some air - the box is probably low 30s tune and the 2nd note in put on appears the loudest - didnt get a chance to properly set up but will have another pop tomorrow

whilst i admire your guts to do this with a boxfresh car

i think the head unit looks a little naff

i suppose it is all about the sounds and not the looks

i must be getting old

whilst i admire your guts to do this with a boxfresh car

i think the head unit looks a little naff

i suppose it is all about the sounds and not the looks

i must be getting old

Isnt it usually the other way around when you get older? wanting better funcionality at the sacrifice of 'bling'

I have been around the block with car audio and when i moved to an ipod as my main source I tested out A LOT of differnt headunits - the kenwood does all that plus provides full control over the 3 preouts i need to run a decent system - I personally like its looks but i guess if yoru used to double din HU then it is a little weedy but it sounds great and the thing works well for me

I see you have used the hideous autoleads facia kit, why not use the OEM single din conversion kit from your dealer. The OEM kit includes everything you need, and is actually cheaper then the autoleads rubbish and looks like its from the factory.

Lastly, why dump what is a superior headunit with full touchscreen, it would have been cheaper/better to retain it and add MDI to get ipod control through a decent touchscreen interface.

The kenwood headunit chosen is a budget model, I cannot see how even with all those amps and sub it can sound better than the bolero would have done connected to the same kit.

I am sorry, but the setup in its current form does nothing for me and is far too bling. I would have done something more discreet, used the OEM headunit added some amps, MDI, and got a sub in the spare wheel well. Using better quality components would yield better results without the bling factor.

I see you have used the hideous autoleads facia kit, why not use the OEM single din conversion kit from your dealer. The OEM kit includes everything you need, and is actually cheaper then the autoleads rubbish and looks like its from the factory.

Lastly, why dump what is a superior headunit with full touchscreen, it would have been cheaper/better to retain it and add MDI to get ipod control through a decent touchscreen interface.

The kenwood headunit chosen is a budget model, I cannot see how even with all those amps and sub it can sound better than the bolero would have done connected to the same kit.

I am sorry, but the setup in its current form does nothing for me and is far too bling. I would have done something more discreet, used the OEM headunit added some amps, MDI, and got a sub in the spare wheel well. Using better quality components would yield better results without the bling factor.

Its the Connect2 adaptor - they sponsored me for another system I did (see my sig) so didnt pay much at all

Superior in your opinion - the Bolero has no Pre Outs, no ability to change crossover points on the fly, and no time alignment etc - The Kenwood takes the DIGITAL output of the ipod and converts it on board using its own DA convertor - something tha the majority of bolt on ipod interfaces do not do (taking only the line level output and amplifying that whilst giving you control of whats playing )

I have no way to connect the bolero to the amps without using a speaker/line level convertor - which again takes me back to not being able to control the system set up from the headunit.

I think people that know me and my past systems will tell you Im all about the sound not the bling - We obviously want totally different things from a system which is only expected - my bass heavy tastes certainly dont fly with everyone

Edited 7 November, 201015 yr by thejoose

Lastly, why dump what is a superior headunit with full touchscreen, it would have been cheaper/better to retain it and add MDI to get ipod control through a decent touchscreen interface.

The OEM unit will have about 10W RMS output, which is not enough to drive even the cheapest of aftermarket speakers. Most OEM car speakers are paper cone and low power handling but high efficency to get the most out of the poor amplifier stages in the OEM headunits. Even a "Bolero" headunit won't be anywhere near as good a quality, cheap aftermarket unit for sound quality. Add on the problems with pre outs, dodgy DSP settings that you have no control over, and horrible eqing, I can't see much point in keeping the OEM unit tbh. Oh, apart from looks. Ironic huh!

The kenwood headunit chosen is a budget model, I cannot see how even with all those amps and sub it can sound better than the bolero would have done connected to the same kit.

The amps and the headunit would have made a huge difference to the standard kit, let alone by replacing it with better stuff. I'm guessing you don't have much experience with proper car stereo systems?

Edited 7 November, 201015 yr by TomGG

Hey tom - forgot you might be around on here as well!!

I ran the stock hu on the uprated speakers and there was a massive improvement in sound - Im also running the rear speakers from a tiny amp (2x30wrms) and they also sound much much better

And as Tom will verify - im far from bling!

SPL Dynamics TD-602 Coaxial Speakers for the front doors

Audiocontrol System 90 amp/bass EQ combo (a 2x100wrms amp with built in digital bass restoration) to amp the front door speakers

[Drilled out the rivets holding the OEM speaker in then popped them through

Mounted the new speakers to the adaptor and then using self tappers to mount it all to the door

Hi mate, quick question, did you have to get the 'adaptor' seperate, or is it fitted to the OEM speakers? Also, I plan to change the front door ones as you have, will they run from a Bolero HU, or will I need an amp?

Cheers, Lee.

Edited 9 November, 201015 yr by Pagey1255

Hi mate, quick question, did you have to get the 'adaptor' seperate, or is it fitted to the OEM speakers? Also, I plan to change the front door ones as you have, will they run from a Bolero HU, or will I need an amp?

Cheers, Lee.

hey Buddy

the adaptor is a separate item - Connects2 part code is - CT55-08 - it plugs into the OEM speaker connector and gives you spade connectors to attach to your replacement speakers

You dont need an amp to if your replacing the speakers no - the bolero should run them just fine - its also worth noting that the wiring adaptors i used 'passthrough' to the OEM tweeters so that they still play from the headunit

hey Buddy

the adaptor is a separate item - Connects2 part code is - CT55-08 - it plugs into the OEM speaker connector and gives you spade connectors to attach to your replacement speakers

You dont need an amp to if your replacing the speakers no - the bolero should run them just fine - its also worth noting that the wiring adaptors i used 'passthrough' to the OEM tweeters so that they still play from the headunit

Sorry mate, I think we've got our wires crossed (pardon the pun) I was talking about the black housing the speaker is screwed in to which then fits to the door!

I will need them adapters you mention though I suppose, so I've been on the Connects2 site and found them, but it doesn't give a price or any way to buy them?? :S

Sorry mate, I think we've got our wires crossed (pardon the pun) I was talking about the black housing the speaker is screwed in to which then fits to the door!

I will need them adapters you mention though I suppose, so I've been on the Connects2 site and found them, but it doesn't give a price or any way to buy them?? :S

Sorry durrr

you cant buy direct from connects2 they sell to the trade only

try car audio direct

Sorry durrr

you cant buy direct from connects2 they sell to the trade only

try car audio direct

Cheers buddy, what about the black speaker housing adapter thingy?

Edit: Can't seem to find the plug adapter in that site, what sort of money is it?

Edited 9 November, 201015 yr by Pagey1255

Cheers buddy, what about the black speaker housing adapter thingy?

Edit: Can't seem to find the plug adapter in that site, what sort of money is it?

I'm looking for the same parts. The plug adapter is £5.

For the speaker mounts, these look like they might fit, listed as suitable for a MkV Golf or a Fabia - Autoleads SAK-3108

http://productfinder.autoleads.co.uk/productinfo.aspx?&tier1=Speaker+Adaptor+Kits&tier2=SKODA&catref=SAK-3108

Edited 21 November, 201015 yr by r6ymy

I'm looking for the same parts. The plug adapter is £5.

For the speaker mounts, these look like they might fit, listed as suitable for a MkV Golf or a Fabia - Autoleads SAK-3108

http://productfinder.autoleads.co.uk/productinfo.aspx?&tier1=Speaker+Adaptor+Kits&tier2=SKODA&catref=SAK-3108

Cheers, is this another 'trade only' site though as I've got now buy it option!! :no:

Cheers, is this another 'trade only' site though as I've got now buy it option!! :no:

That is the manufacturers site.

Have you heard of Google! :yes:

http://www.sextonsdirect.co.uk/autoleads/p~SAK-3108.html?PARTNER=Froogle

Forget that, just found a real bargain at £5.99 with free postage

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CT25VW05-Speaker-Fitting-Adapter-VW-Transporter-/350413877999?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_FasciaPlates_SM

Edited 23 November, 201015 yr by r6ymy

That is the manufacturers site.

Have you heard of Google! :yes:

http://www.sextonsdirect.co.uk/autoleads/p~SAK-3108.html?PARTNER=Froogle

Forget that, just found a real bargain at £5.99 with free postage

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CT25VW05-Speaker-Fitting-Adapter-VW-Transporter-/350413877999?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_FasciaPlates_SM

Nice find with the ebay ones, did you get them yet, and if so do they fit?

Oh and I am fully aware of Google thank you, but why waste my time searching when I can get someone else to do it for me?

... pair of shuriken bt100s ...

Good work on the install

Any reason for running two batteries in series, as opposed to say 1 battery and a farad capacitor ?

( I notice you don't seem to have a split charger either )

should have sound-proofed the doors when you had the door cards off

Good work on the install

Any reason for running two batteries in series, as opposed to say 1 battery and a farad capacitor ?

( I notice you don't seem to have a split charger either )

should have sound-proofed the doors when you had the door cards off

I used two batteries because I had them

Capacitors are useless in all but the top end SQ systems - they are an extra drain on a systems power supply - the batteries I use can supply enough current fast enough to keep up with the music - capacitors are a total waste of money

Split charge is only needed if you need to isolate your starter battery from your system battery and running with your engine off - for shows etc (one should also be used to isolate two batteries of differing conditions to prevent a knackered battery from draining a working one - in my system all 3 batteries are of a similar age n state so thats not a worry)

as for the doors - cant easily sound proof them without rilling out ALL the inner door panel rivets - i was nervous enough drilling the speaker mounts so wouldnt even like to start on going further - i know it would improve things but as a cloth eared basshead I can put up with it

Edited 24 November, 201015 yr by thejoose