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Electrical cables in driver-side door broken :/

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I have a Skoda Octavia 2001 model 1.9TDI 4x4.

Some years back, the sensor that tells the car that the drivers side door is opened stopped working. No big deal except that I need to remember to turn off the driving lights (no alarm beep), and of course the possibility of locking the keys into the car (unlock car with key remote, open and close driver side door.. wait a few seconds and it automatically locks the doors again...)

Now I've come to realize that the problem is likely due to chafing of the electrical cables where they traverse between the car body and the door. The black protective covering is ruptured, and several of the thin wires have been severed, while several of the other cables have the insulation broken.

The shop says that it will be a bit costly, as they will need to replace cables - or at least replace the cable run from inside the door to inside the body.

I'm wondering how difficult it would be to fix this on my own. Now its gotten to the point where sometimes the left side passenger door lock clicks open (it was already open, but same as pressing the "unlock" button on the drivers door control panel) from time to time while driving. Sounds like I have a ghost in the machine :)

My current quick-fix is to just wrap the broken cables with electrical tape to stop any interesting shorts.

Input will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you for your time.

Octopus4x4

If you know how to use a soldering iron properly, I don't see why you couldn't buy some similar cable & heat shrink from Maplins, & do a good lasting repair to the existing wiring.

You could always search breakers yards for a replacement loom.

I have a Skoda Octavia 2001 model 1.9TDI 4x4.

Some years back, the sensor that tells the car that the drivers side door is opened stopped working. No big deal except that I need to remember to turn off the driving lights (no alarm beep), and of course the possibility of locking the keys into the car (unlock car with key remote, open and close driver side door.. wait a few seconds and it automatically locks the doors again...)

Now I've come to realize that the problem is likely due to chafing of the electrical cables where they traverse between the car body and the door. The black protective covering is ruptured, and several of the thin wires have been severed, while several of the other cables have the insulation broken.

The shop says that it will be a bit costly, as they will need to replace cables - or at least replace the cable run from inside the door to inside the body.

I'm wondering how difficult it would be to fix this on my own. Now its gotten to the point where sometimes the left side passenger door lock clicks open (it was already open, but same as pressing the "unlock" button on the drivers door control panel) from time to time while driving. Sounds like I have a ghost in the machine :)

My current quick-fix is to just wrap the broken cables with electrical tape to stop any interesting shorts.

Input will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you for your time.

Octopus4x4

It will be easier puting in a short length of cable for each cable damaged ,than replacing the whole wire from connector to connector. If you end up using heatshrink,dont have any where the cable bends when opening,or closing the door. You need just cable in these places.The reason being,heatshrink is not as flexible, in the future you will get the cable inner copper wire breaking where it enters,and exits the heatshrink. In other words dont put heatshrink over the whole length of the replacement wire.

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It will be easier puting in a short length of cable for each cable damaged ,than replacing the whole wire from connector to connector. If you end up using heatshrink,dont have any where the cable bends when opening,or closing the door. You need just cable in these places.The reason being,heatshrink is not as flexible, in the future you will get the cable inner copper wire breaking where it enters,and exits the heatshrink. In other words dont put heatshrink over the whole length of the replacement wire.

Ok, so I could just put on an extension from break to break and push the original ends back into the door/car frame so they are no longer under stress. Now I just need to find suitable cables and a good way of connecting them :) Could be tempting to just use a "sugar cube" on each end :)

And at least one of those cables is pretty thick.

Thanks

Ok, so I could just put on an extension from break to break and push the original ends back into the door/car frame so they are no longer under stress. Now I just need to find suitable cables and a good way of connecting them :) Could be tempting to just use a "sugar cube" on each end :)

And at least one of those cables is pretty thick.

Thanks

Yes, to join the cables ,mechanically twisting the copper wire together,then soldering is the best connection. Then put the correct size 'heatshrink' over the join.The heatsink needs to be put on the cable before soldering,then slid over the join,and heated. It sounds like you are not up to doing the job. The replacement wire needs to be the same current carrying capacity as the one being repaired . It is not highly technical just time consuming (thank god I did an apprenticeship many years ago!). Dont use crimp connectors ,because water can get ,and cause corrosion,which may not show up for a number of years,causing alarm and door locking problems. Also they increase the diameter of each cable joined causing other problems,such as jamming when trying to remove them. I would try and get somebody to do the job for you who knows what they are doing.

Edited by AndyPandy

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