Hi All

Does anyone have the full set of new (current) geometry settings for the vrs - front and back?

Thinking of getting the geometry checked by an independent as I got the rear wheels done at the dealers because of the dreaded dunlop sawtoothing.

The problem is that they only did the back and the wheels look like they are sticking out at the bottom at an angle so the inside edge of the new tyres may wear - just doesnt look right.

I just want to getthe front and back checked to make sure all is ok.

Cheers

Dave

Hi All

Does anyone have the full set of new (current) geometry settings for the vrs - front and back?

Thinking of getting the geometry checked by an independent as I got the rear wheels done at the dealers because of the dreaded dunlop sawtoothing.

The problem is that they only did the back and the wheels look like they are sticking out at the bottom at an angle so the inside edge of the new tyres may wear - just doesnt look right.

I just want to getthe front and back checked to make sure all is ok.

Cheers

Dave

This really is a can of worms. From another site.

Old values are: -1°45' ± 30'

New values are: -1°20' ± 30'

However, I am led to believe that it is not the camber but the toe in that is causing the sawtooth effect. Mine is the same and the geometry specialist that I saw explained this. However, certain tyres, Dunlop especially are prone to this wear, as mine are.

I believe that Skoda have revised their settings to the original as drivers did not like the feel of the new settings.

Edited 18 November, 201015 yr by Tricky Red

Did the dealer charge you to revise the geometry settings on the rear? Still don't understand how a car manufacturer can sell a car with a known fault like this and then leave it to the owners to sort out...

Did the dealer charge you to revise the geometry settings on the rear? Still don't understand how a car manufacturer can sell a car with a known fault like this and then leave it to the owners to sort out...

No, the dealer didn't charge me for the work - they were very helpful and even washed the car.

They swapped the front and back tyres and adjusted the rear geometry. It is a bit confusing now as seemingly the "new" rear settings are now obsolete and the "old" settings are now in use again.

How the hell are we supposed to choose the correct settings if Skoda can't make up their mind?

Does anyone know the correct settings for the front wheels?

Cheers

Dave

Edited 19 November, 201015 yr by FatblokeVRS

Is this just a problem on the VRS or all models?

thanks

Andy

Go to an wheel alignment centre with good equipment (eg Jim Bean, Bear, Sun etc) They receive frequent updates. Your car should be listed as having the 'sports' chassis (2UC IIRC) and the settings will all be listed on the computer.Its the same chassis as prevous vRS (pre-FL). I do have the settings from Autodata - let me know which specific ones you want - it would take too long to type them all out.

Go to an wheel alignment centre with good equipment (eg Jim Bean, Bear, Sun etc) They receive frequent updates. Your car should be listed as having the 'sports' chassis (2UC IIRC) and the settings will all be listed on the computer.Its the same chassis as prevous vRS (pre-FL). I do have the settings from Autodata - let me know which specific ones you want - it would take too long to type them all out.

Hi

My VRS is a Jan 2010 - I think it is the FL.

Where do I find the chassis type / model etc and do you have the Autodata settings for the front and back please?

I just want to get the front and back checked to make sure all is ok (we have suddenly had a 80 mile per tank drop since the geometry was done).

Cheers

Dave

Hi

My VRS is a Jan 2010 - I think it is the FL.

Cheers

Dave

The Headlamp shape should give it away

Hi

My VRS is a Jan 2010 - I think it is the FL.

Where do I find the chassis type / model etc and do you have the Autodata settings for the front and back please?

I just want to get the front and back checked to make sure all is ok (we have suddenly had a 80 mile per tank drop since the geometry was done).

Cheers

Dave

Chassis the same as pre-FL so it doesn't really matter.

Key settings are:

Front

Caster 7deg 17' to 8deg 17'

Camber -1deg 11' to - 0deg 11'

Toe (mm) 0 to 1 each side

Rear

Camber -1deg 20' +/- 20'

Toe (mm) 0 to 1 each side

Find it hard to believe geometry could be responsible for an 80 miles per tank increase in consumption unless it is WAY out (you would see immediate scrubbing on tyres). Don't lose too much sleep over rear camber, 20 minutes of arc is not going to make a massive difference.