Disk Brake - Advice

[Norbs]

Evening All.

I've been informed I have a warped disk and need new front disk / pads.

I've got a pal who can get me oem parts at trade. I can have a standard set of front disks for £80 a pair. I've found these grooved ones on fleabay - anyone used them before? Or any other suggestions for approx the same price as oem.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Octavia-vRS-TDi-Drilled-Grooved-Brake-Discs-Front-04-/110425895813?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19b5e57385

I have a 2007 VRS PD 170. Which I believe has the 312mm disks.

Thanks!

Rob

[Ecomatt]

If you arent going to track day your car. I would just opt for OEM discs and uprate the pads if you felt the need to. I have been more than happy with the standard items, as they have never failed to stop me.

[Hauptmann]

I assume the eBay ones are imported blanks that are then machined (drilled, grooved, PCD'd) in the UK. There's a few companies doing this.

You may get a bit more noise than OE, but that'll probably be the only difference. If you can get OE at a good price then go with that.

[silver1011]

Try your local motor factors, often a good choice between budget or branded parts and some good prices too, eBay can sometimes be more hassle than its worth.

£80 for OEM sounds quite reasonable though.

[Norbs]

Thanks all. I'll stick with the OEM kit. No plans the track it.. its not exactly a track car.

[ap0gee1978]

I can pretty much guarantee that you HAVEN'T warped the discs!

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

Having them skimmed may not be any cheaper than getting new ones, but following the advice in the article may help it ever happening again...

HTH

[Hauptmann]

Yes, I think genuinely 'warped' discs are pretty rare. But skimming is so expensive nowadays, and discs so cheap, that its really only worthwhile on fairly exotic cars.

[Norbs]

Ok maybe not "warped" but i'm getting a lot of feedback "judder" through the pedal.

Warped was the term used by the garage.

I'm guessing the disks on it are the original ones and have covered 50k so new it is.

Thanks for the info though.. interesting reading.

[cheezemonkhai]

That stoptech site has some guides to bedding in new pads.

Essentially find a wide clear road and when safe repeatedly brake from about 70 to 10mph without actually coming to a stop. Do this 10 times or until you notice the brakes fade/reduce in braking power or anything else that reduces your ability to stop.

That should remove any deposited pad materials.

[RS3100]

A sticking pad and uneven pad wear can give a vibration through the pedal, had this on many cars. When replacing the pads on other cars, I renove the caliper fully and use proper brake greese (never used copper slip) and lube up what I can. Piston seals should be OK, my RS Capri has the original discs and calipers and is now 37 years old and on original caliper piston seals. Toyota is now at 140K miles and still on orginal discs and calipers, early sign that pads will need replacing is a slight vibration on braking.

The only discs I have ever had to replace on a car was on a Laguna after 80K miles because the numpty of a previous owner had removed the pad warning wire, so no warning of a brake pad problem until it scored the disc and on an Escort Cosworth that had grooved discs which were great for trapping small stones between the groove and pad, so cracking pads which then scored the disc. I've had to replace the discs on freinds cars that have had the same problem.

[silver1011]

When replacing the pads on other cars, I remove the caliper fully and use proper brake greese (never used copper slip).

Just out of curiosity, why would you not use copper slip?

I replaced the discs and pads on our second car (Peugeot) last weekend and used copper slip between the steel wheel and disc and on the wheel nuts.

I find this helps removal next time.

Should I be using something else and should I be lubricating any other components?

[Hauptmann]

Copper grease is fine. But keep it off the friction surface and also the rubber (as far as is possible).

Go easy on what you lubricate. Lubricating the wheel nuts is not recommended (they should be fastened 'dry') - lubrication alters (increases) the clamping force for a given torque and so can lead to over-tightening of the bolts. It also makes it more likely for them to work loose. Also bear in mind that braking torque is transmitted through the wheel:disc interface, so any lubrication there should be sparing. Main thing is to lubricate the pad edges and caliper sliders (especially on 'Colette' type calipers).

[RS3100]

For years I used Copper Grease but over time I noticed that is was scoring the sliders due to the flecks of copper being a bit course. There are now specialist greases for lubricating brake parts and since using them I've never had a problem with sticking sliders or the piston rubbers perishing.

There is a typo in my original post, it was meant to say I never use copper slip. As I said, I've found it to score the sliders, all but one of my cars do megga miles and I don't change them that frequently.