Ecomatt

Sometimes you need to keep pressing the key fob to re sync it to the car.

Personally went with B4 and Eibach Pro kit. Plenty firm enough but not too firm you lose fillings.

I went with the Bilstein B4 dampers, which are the OE version and are generally thought of as being better than the standard dampers. Springs, if you do not wish to lower it then just refit the springs you have. I opted for a set of Eibach Pro Springs. They lower the car about an inch over standard but are a much more refined ride. My wife comments how much smoother the car is and less jittery. Whilst they are off I would also fit new top mounts. I also changed the anti roll bar links too. The cheapest place I found was from Autodoc for the full set.

There is a good chance the last owner might have done some coding in that control unit. I would speak to someone who has access to odis and reflash the original coding. Odis would also do diagnostic checks and find out what the issue is. Without it it can be like shooting in the dark with these types of faults.

The ratio the speedo is out is 1% on the sites I have seen that compares tyre circumferences. I have 235 Asy 5 fitted with zero issues. I might switch to the Asy 6 225 section tyres as the rubber is less dense at 88 rather than 91 load rating. The 235 are a heavier tyre than the 225 and as such will have more rotational mass.

You can get them cleaned. Removing it means you are not covered under your insurance policy and may fail on the smoke test come mot time.

Unless you did the coolant change when the coolant is warm enough for the thermostat to open, you will not get it all out. OBDeleven and VCDS does have a bleed basic setting that activates all the pumps and gets rid of any air locks.

Yes plug 3 is the sensor plug. I would just buy a genuine plug from Skoda or somewhere like Darkside.

If it only happens when cold that would point to a glowplug issue.

Spark plugs or coil packs is where I would start. Also a leaking PCV valve can cause this sort of an issue.

R Tech are excellent mappers. I would not worry about a few bhp less as that will not translate to any different on the road performance. Really only for pub bragging to say mine has over 300bhp etc. R Tech will do you an excellent custom map and advise you of what you need to know.

Low saps, mid saps are fine for DPF. I use mid saps oil by Millers that is vw507 spec. What I was saying is that the actual amount of oil burned is negligable short term and will not clogg up quickly. A DPF should last over 100,000 miles approx if driven as they should be. So it would take a while to block up again even with short runs.

My understanding is that the soot levels will be reset once clean and the car will continue to regen every 270 miles give or take. The extra oil burnt will not make too much difference as there is only a small amount. If you think how many litres of fuel is burnt per how much oil is burnt. The oil quantity is very dilute in comparison and wouldnt make a huge impact.

A DPF is a filter and will eventually block up again. If it is blocked then it needs cleaning. No one can predict how long it takes to block up again as that will depend on driving style etc. If you do not clean it out it can lead to other damage and even a fire in extreme cases. But mostly it will just go into limp mode and prevent the engine from damaging itself.

I just fitted the B4 with Eibach Pro kit. The car handles a lot better and is not bone shakingly firm but drives over bumps much better. I had thought about the B6 but could not justify the extra cost of them. Have a read of my recent thread as I fitted all new suspension.

Looking at the age of the car and the mileage does the car only do short town runs? Or is it a weekend car that drives motorway miles etc? Turbochargers do not like lots of short runs as they get a build up of burnt oil deposits on the turboshaft and that can cause an oil leak. Depending where the oil is leaking from a turbo specialist could rebuild it using new seals and clean it up for less than a new one. They are easy enough to remove and take apart so would keep overall cost down.

I would buy genuine TRW pads and discs from Autodoc. They are what are fitted from the factory and also alot cheaper than dealer prices. Also cheaper than most car part shops too.

Might be cheaper to find a custom exhaust company to fit in a box again for you.

My personal choice would be a BCS Powervalve exhaust.

You might need to enter a new code as per below link https://mib-helper.com/im-so-xory/

They are the same ones I fitted to my VRS with the 55mm strut diameter. I believe the scout uses the same strut diametet so will fit fine.

I would fit Bilstein B4 dampers as they are oe replacement part. You can get them from Autodoc very cheaply and are better than the standard dampers. Also worth changing the top mounts whilst they are off.

Go into the engine module Select Long Coding You need to click on the manufacturer and it should bring up options of numerous VAG groups You need to select the Seat/Skoda/Volkswagen and then save it. That should recode the engine from Audi to Skoda. It may ask you for a security code but will bring up a list. Just try each one on the list until is accepts it.

Did you do this through coding or via the inbuilt apps on OBDeleven?

Yes cause I can. I have screenshot the parts I used from Autodoc on my invoice. I purchased the Clubsport rear anti roll bar when they were £92 on offee from Darkside. But even at the higjer price of £132 is still a bargain. With the top mounts you need to add 2 for each, as I thought they came in pairs. https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/genuine-21-7mm-x-3-6mm-vw-mk7-golf-clubsport-s-rear-anti-roll-bar-upgrade.html