starting a tdi conversion

[rolo]

**** up so now new post

OBD-data link connector 16pin.

Use 3 only, if yellow connected ignore it

Pin 4---Brown,-earth

Pin 7---Grey/White,-Pin 61 ECU

Pin 16--Red/White

(Pin 15--Yellow)

All this is found inside the car, plus brake pedal and clutch switches.

Pin data later.

[rolo]

Once you have stripped the loom you will see the groups of commons which link together at some point inside it.I used the Skoda glowplug system.If "or" point where my loom differed from wiring diagrams.

ECU PIN WIRE COLOUR

1 BROWN------------Connects to a body/engine earthing point, it

also joins browns from 24;46.

and the black from terminal 3,

crank sensor, and terminal 5

MAF sensor

2 BLACK/GREEN------Connects to dash control t5--

left off

3 Blank

4 BROWN/YELLOW-----To brown/yellow loom connection and then to t6

fuel pump connector

5 BROWN/YELLOW-----To brown/yellow loom connection and then to t6

fuel pump connector

6 Blank

7 GREY/GREEN-------Pump modulation sensor, t2 fuel pump connector

8 GREEN/YELLOW or

BLUE-------------Engine speed (crank) sensor t2

9 VIOLET/WHITE-----Dash control t26; left off

10 Blank

11 BLUE-------------Needle lift sensor (injector3)

12 GREY------------- " " "

13 BROWN/RED--------MAF sensor t6

14 BROWN/GREEN or Temperature sensor t3

BLUE/BROWN

15 WHITE/BLUE-------Throtle position sensor t1

16 Blank

17 WHITE/RED--------Clutch switch t2

18 Blank

19 RED/GREEN--------MAF t1

20 WHITE/YELLOW-----Brake pedal switch 2(blue)

21 Blank

22 Blank

23 BLACK/YELLOW-----Black/Yellow loom connection, then engine control relay t6 c as blue/red

24 BROWN------------Earth, connects to other browns

25 BROWN/WHITE------EGR t2: EGR t1 black/yellow fed via loom connection

26 Blank

27 Blank

28 Blank

29 VIOLET/BLACK-----Fuel quantity adjuster position sensor,pump c connector t1

30 Blank

31 Blank

32 Blank

33 BROWN/WHITE or BROWN/BLUE---Common return via loom connection for tps t6, pump t4

brake pedal pos.(2) t2, clutch switch t1,

intake air temp sensor t2, crank sensor t1,MAF t2,

temp switch t1

34 BLUE/GREY--------Cruise control. Left off

TBC

Edited 7 August, 2011 by rolo

[Neilos888]

thanks for all your help, i managed to get it all in working! i didnt use brake sensor or speed sensor either, and too lashed up a bracket on end of cable for the tps!

my big problem is now that i trusted my mate to solder my chips into ecu (this really was my mate not me) and now its completely dead

what i need to know is can i just get another with same number 028 906 021 GG and plug it in and away to go, or do i need immobiliser and key etc. really annoyed about this, do you know anyone who can recode these?

please help

[Neilos888]

can i reprogram the ecu/immo with vagcom and my ebay odb lead or do i need the full software with genuine lead?

[rolo]

Tom may know that.I`d get another ecu and immo deleted. That chip will cause you clutch problems. I`d just do the variable resistor on the fuel quantity circuit, worked wonders on the toledo, estimate 10-15 bhp cost pennies.Adjustable from inside and turned on/off

Edited 8 August, 2011 by rolo

[rolo]

Well, started so I`ll finish that which may be useful to others.

PIN 35 RED---------cruise control, left off

36 Blank

37 Blank

38 BLACK-------Ignition switched live

39 BROWN-------Earth, loom connector

or RED/WHITE---Alternator

40 Blank

41 Blank

42 BLACK/VIOLET-Engine control relay t5 (negative switched by ecu)

43 BLUE/WHITE--Dash control, left off

44 BLACK/RED----Brake pedal position switch 1 t2, bpps t1 fused batt live

45 BLACK/YELLOW-Common, loom connection, also to black t1 speed sensor

46 BROWN--------Earth

47 RED/BLUE or BROWN/BLUE--- turbo wastegate controller t2

48 BLUE/GREEN--Coolant heater, left off.

49 BROWN/YELLOW-Loom connection links pins 4,5,49,30 with pump connection 6

50 YELLOW/BLUE--Glow plug relay, left off.

51 BROWN/BLACK-- Becomes brown Fuel injection timing solenoid, pump con.t4

52 WHITE/GREEN-- Fuel quantity sensor, pump connector t3

c 53 WHITE/BLACK-- Fuel cut off connector.

54 Blank

55 GREY/RED-----TPS t3

56 Blank

57 YELLOW/GREEN-TPS t2

58 Blank

59 Blank

60 Blank

61 GREY/WHITE---OBD plug and immo

62 GREEN/WHITE--TPS t5

63 YELLOW/BLACK-- Fuel temp sensor, pump cntrol connector t7. When

shortening wires do not join this to BLACK/YELLOW

64 BLUE/YELLOW----Intake air temp sensor t1; t2 brown/white or

brown/blue return

65 GREY/BLUE------TPS, t4

66 BLACK/WHITE----cruise control, left off.

67 Blank

68 BLACK/YELLOW---Common live switched by control relay

Simples

Edited 9 August, 2011 by rolo

[rolo]

a

Edited 9 August, 2011 by rolo

[Neilos888]

thanks Rolo, the pin outs and colours are going to be useful for me. i pretty much at the moment got a bag full of wires under my bonnet which i had no idea what they did so just had to leave them there. Now i can do a proper job

thanks again for all your help during this project

[rolo]

Make sure that you solder and shrink wrap any joints in the loom, but just crimp any joints or terminals not in it.

have fun.

Edited 10 August, 2011 by rolo

[TeflonTom]

can i reprogram the ecu/immo with vagcom and my ebay odb lead or do i need the full software with genuine lead?

Tom may know that.I`d get another ecu and immo deleted. That chip will cause you clutch problems. I`d just do the variable resistor on the fuel quantity circuit, worked wonders on the toledo, estimate 10-15 bhp cost pennies.Adjustable from inside and turned on/off

Yes, you don't reprogram the ecu per se, it's the immo unit you need to align with the ecu, the procedure is immo 25, adaption 10, channel 0 read then save.. Not having read this entire thread I don't know 100% what you are trying to do, but on the ref lump the immo unit is built into the fuel cut off solenoid, other tdi engines have a separate immo box and some have the same setup as the aef engine.. I'll read through this thread properly later on and get back to you

Edit; you can do it with the cheapo eBay cable but you need to have a registered version to access channel 0 in the adaption screen.

[rolo]

and the felicia temp gauge wires are 2 and 4 yellow and brown- these connect to the same on the golf switch.

you can use the passat water exit from the back (rhs) of the engine which has accomodation for 3 std type sensors and use one for temp control of glow using an earlier type vw sender and probably an earlier skoda for better gauge control.

[Neilos888]

and the felicia temp gauge wires are 2 and 4 yellow and brown- these connect to the same on the golf switch.

you can use the passat water exit from the back (rhs) of the engine which has accomodation for 3 std type sensors and use one for temp control of glow using an earlier type vw sender and probably an earlier skoda for better gauge control.

yes. this is confusing me quite a bit. all i did was plug the wires from the felicia into the temp sender and felicia wires into the radiator. i have no readout on the dash. the engine doesnt really seem to get very hot either. im a bit confused about what you mean.

[rolo]

TDI runs much cooler.

Golf and felicia 4pins are different. The ecu needs the golf 1-3 connection. The dash needs a felicia 2-4 with the yellow and brown 2-4 felicia wiring

Played with the needle to get some sort of reading.

You need a skoda resistance sensor supplying the yellow wire, the brown is earth. My solution was (although never done) to use a one wire temp sender from say, a favorit and introduce it to hot water via a passat rhs hose connector as it has a suitable position.

There are 3 sensor positions on it and I would have run a caddy/t25 glow plug control, 1 wire, sensor to the felicia red wire.

It seems you have no temp control other than IAT to the golf ecu at present. ECU pin 14 should have this connection with a return to pin 33

Hope this helps abit

Oh, and if you`re shortening the wires to make it all tidy,the crank sensor and needle lift are shielded against EMR so used aluminium tape to try and reproduce this over the join

Edited 17 August, 2011 by rolo

[Neilos888]

cheers rolo. I'll be honest with you, most of that went over my head but i've been running now fine for ages, so am going to leave it alone until i drop it into something a bit better i want a fun really but its finding one...

[rolo]

Just doing the 16v thing and noticed the afh head has a water pipe with 2, 4 pin points, if this fits, to be tried later, it would solve the temp gauge problem as the tdi and na senders could both be used, golf to ecu and felly to gauge; 1-3 and 2-4 respectively.

Edited 22 September, 2011 by rolo

[Neilos888]

sounds promising

i could do with knowing what temp it is if i ever get stuck in traffic, because i'm not sure even my fan cuts in

[rolo]

won`t work will look out for another.

[rolo]

Right think sussed it.

The passat afn cylinder head water pipe I mentioned earlier fits the 1z. The bit I couldn`t see in the shed was that there`s a blank on the other side that takes a 4 pin sensor. Put the felicia one in it with the felicia wiring.

The one on the front of the engine is the golf, connect that to the ecu wiring. You should get a working temp gauge, temp control on the glow plugs and coolant temp fed into the engine managemnt.

[TeflonTom]

I'm a bit disappointed that there is no pictures in this thread to show the build.

After all, the subject of tdi conversions does crop up quite regular on briskoda, it would be nice if there were some sort of guide or pictorial.

[rolo]

Gave up trying to post pics 3 years ago and lots of tech stuff. Too much to learn when teaching yourself and over 60, just keeping up with what I`m interested in and that has changed immensely in the last few years. I come across switches, now, that have 3 wires and seven functions.

Although never was my build thread did take some images that I can email to someone if they want to post them.

To be honest a tdi felly conversion is fairly easy. Start with a diesel replace the head, pistons and rods.

Choose a injection system and then either make up a loom and use tdi pump and bracket or fit a 10mm or bigger Bosch pump (on the aef bracket if landrover). Cut a hole in the bonnet so it shuts or modify the inlet and make up a downpipe.

Hopefully the OP has images.

[rolo]

Just been to Brickwerks for some t3 stuff and find Simon sells a plastic T pipe that reconnects a water pipe and takes a vw temp gauge. Solves the fitting 2 temp sensors problem. Around £10.

[Khurn]

What engine mounts did you use for this, a friend has a Felicia we were trying to fit a 1z but the engine seems 2 far forward alternator hits the rad and it still needs to go another 1-2" to get the dog bone mount on, original Felicia gearbox used also and currently the original engine mounts both on block and engine to body