Battery Drain Suspects

[Churchy-VRS]

Afternoon,

Are there any common Battery drain suspects.. I am convinced my battery is being drained i have replaced it with a charged item and its starting to get drained gone from 12.7v to 12.3v in one week..

My altinator is working correctly..

Are there any common suspects?

Thanks..

[Br1anC]

Have you measured the load on the battery with the engine off? Should be pretty easy to see if something is draining the battery. It could be that the battery just isn't being charged, either short journeys or dodgy alternator, load sensor wire (this afflicted me over Christmas), or other wiring.

[GentleGiant]

There are lots of things, a door deadlock could be sticking and trying to close fully all the time the car is parked up. I had this on a Toyota a few years ago, took ages (and 2 dead batteries), to figure out.

Ditto windscreen wipers left on when the ignition is switched off.

The battery could be dying; have you had a jump start due to a flat battery?? That usually damages Calcium technology batteries.

[kernowVRs]

There are lots of things, a door deadlock could be sticking and trying to close fully all the time the car is parked up. I had this on a Toyota a few years ago, took ages (and 2 dead batteries), to figure out.

Ditto windscreen wipers left on when the ignition is switched off.

The battery could be dying; have you had a jump start due to a flat battery?? That usually damages Calcium technology batteries.

I have a Seat Ibiza (same thing but different) and my car will also after 7/8 days have a flat battery! what you have to remember even without any faulty electrical components the alarm and immobliser circuits are stlll drawing current.

Do you know anyone with a clamp meter who can do a check on current draw with every thing off (wait till about 20mins to ensure the ecu has shut down)It should be approx 300Ma any more and it indicates something is staying alive after you lock up. Most modern cars will have the same symptom after 6+days.

Just think of it this way 60a fully charged battery will supply

1a for 60 hours

500Ma for 120hours which is 5 days

300Ma being slightly less would take yo into 6/7days.

Which is why my mate who's a AA engineer attends so many cars left for a week or just over, that won't start.

As already mentioned by GentleGiant batteries don't like to be fully discharged to often.

See if your current drain is around the 300Ma or less mark, and then check the charge rate 13.7-14.3v when above 2000rpm. If your current drain is higher start looking at which circuit is responsible, and identify if you have a sticking relay.

Just remember don't pull fuses with the ignition switched on as the ecu on that circuit will see the loss of power and bring on the engine light.

Maybe you know someone with VCDS who could scan the car for you and see if it brings up any faults? I'm in Central Cornwall and can do it if your down this way? (oops just re-read your post your in Cambs) or put a shout out in the VCDS (VagCom) section and see who's near you.

Edited 20 February, 2011 by kernowVRs

[Churchy-VRS]

Thanks for the information,

Howwould i test the load sensor wire, i have only tested the batterys volts when engine is off this was 12.3v and then tested the alternator at 2000rpm which was 14.4volts. Then tested the earth which had 0 ohms..

When i start the car sometimes i get the power steering warning "i think is related to the battery" and the lights flicker when reving the engine from idle.

I think im going to charge the battery once more. What sort off Volts am i looking for on a fully charged battery..

[kernowVRs]

Thanks for the information,

Howwould i test the load sensor wire, i have only tested the batterys volts when engine is off this was 12.3v and then tested the alternator at 2000rpm which was 14.4volts. Then tested the earth which had 0 ohms..

When i start the car sometimes i get the power steering warning "i think is related to the battery" and the lights flicker when reving the engine from idle.

I think im going to charge the battery once more. What sort off Volts am i looking for on a fully charged battery..

12.7v is 100% charged (leave after charging a while otherwose you will get a false higher reading)

[Churchy-VRS]

So would you say 12.3v is rather flat and wont start the car...

[Br1anC]

Thanks for the information,

Howwould i test the load sensor wire, i have only tested the batterys volts when engine is off this was 12.3v and then tested the alternator at 2000rpm which was 14.4volts. Then tested the earth which had 0 ohms..

When i start the car sometimes i get the power steering warning "i think is related to the battery" and the lights flicker when reving the engine from idle.

I think im going to charge the battery once more. What sort off Volts am i looking for on a fully charged battery..

Power steering warning sounds like load sensor wire, but I'm no expert.

[kernowVRs]

So would you say 12.3v is rather flat and wont start the car...

12.65v =100%

12.45v =75%

12.24v =50%

12.06v =25%

11.89v =0%

12.3v is 50% charged so would in therory swing it over, BUT as soon as you crank the voltage will drop below 12v and lower (10.5-11.5v) and some cars wont have enough voltage to power up circuits so won't start

Lots of cars just doing short trips are running on 50% battery capacity and a drop in temp and they wont start either. When I went to Exide on a course, they showded us the inside of a battery that did short trips and short charges and a few jump starts not very pretty all sulphated, then a 6yr old battery where the vehicle was used every day and used for long runs which looked fine.

They gave us a approx figure of 20mins running to put back what you took out on a cold start, so if your only doing 10mins to work you have little reserve capacity.

Edited 20 February, 2011 by kernowVRs

[Churchy-VRS]

This load sensor wire, where and what is it thanks...

[vrs180]

This load sensor wire, where and what is it thanks...

If you have a look at the alternator you will see a pair of small wires, one blue and the other brown with a red trace.

The weak point is a plug connector under the start/gearbox area.

The wires are stretched really tight.....try looking here.

I just cut the plug out and soldered in some new wire.

Bill.

[doyler20]

will more than likely be the load cable!! had so many problems with my battery, alternator, traction control lights xenon lights and power steering none of which a skoda mechanic could figure out!! went on this so a link on it, put the car up on ramps myself and low and behold this cable had snapped, got it sorted at garage in less than 30 mins, all problems solved in one go!!!

[Churchy-VRS]

Ah i have a look this weekend, could be the answer to my issues. Thanks Alot..