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My engine management light refuses to go out after been to my local Garage and he had it on vagcom: 2006 Octavia Ambentine 2.0 Fsi 150 bhp model

the faults that it keeps detecting are

Low voltage to central locking: Central locking working fine no problems

Low voltage to Radio : Radio working fine

Low voltage to O2 sensors : One sensor replaced moisture in one dry off Car been through MOT O2 levels fine

Ohter than the above the car is running great :o

Only other issue is I do know the battery is past its best according to the indicator on the battery its self and I flattened the Bat the other weekend. The car has been jumpstarted via jump leads and has run perfectly since appart from the engine management light showing.

Please help Iam 50 odd miles from the nearest Skoda dealer and i dont wont to pay 60 quid and hour plus 20% vat. I know i'm a tight Scot.

Any one in the NE Scotland area with vagcom that I could meet with and check out my faults PM me. Could make it worth your while with a bottle of the Good stuff. ;)

Cheers guys

My location is Craigellachie Speyside

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I think you have answered your own questions here, all the problems are low voltage related and you admit the battery is on it's way out.

Are you doing lots of short journeys (sub 5 miles) that is draining the battery?

If so then check the battery acid is covering the plates and give the battery a good full charge (with a battery charger)

If however the car is getting a good run then it's time to buy a new battery, a battery can last anything from 4 - 12+ years (rare but possible) but this all depends on how the car is used and where it is parked (parked outside in the freezing cold will drastically shorten it's life).

HTH

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Yeh car is out side it does short journey to work sits for 8 hour then home again thats its run cycle for two weeks then sits for about a week and does nothing the joys of shift work.

Kinda new what the answer would be but wanted to be as shure as i could be.

Is it easy to fit the censors my self?

Also are these worth the money? Code reader

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Get yourself a new, good quality, battery (e.g. Bosch, Varta).

The new battery is easy to fit.

You do not need to touch any of the sensors. Just the positive and negative battery terminals. If you can't fit the battery yourself then any local garage should be able to do it for you, it doesn't require a trip to the dealers.

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Got ma Nu Battery this morning :rofl: A Boch for 80 Squid dont go to Halfords they are charging 119 for the same battery www.boschbatteries.com

Quick delivery too.

Waiting to get ma Vag code reader to cancel the the light.

Even washed ma car this avo it does look better cleaned. B)

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Got ma Nu Battery this morning :rofl: A Boch for 80 Squid dont go to Halfords they are charging 119 for the same battery www.boschbatteries.com

Quick delivery too.

Waiting to get ma Vag code reader to cancel the the light.

Even washed ma car this avo it does look better cleaned. B)

Hope that solves the proble, for you. let us know in a few days.

thanks, Colin

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If you have the right tools!

By the very nature of Oxygen sensors, being in the exhaust, they tend to be rusted in pretty solid. You can get a special socket with a cutout on it for the wiring so that you can get plenty of force on to it. Some are mounted in stupid places though where you can hardly get a socket to it.

I would get a VW indy garage to look at it - they won't charge much for swapping an O2 sensor over. The sensor is the expensive bit! See if there is a TPS near you and if you can walk in and buy one cash over the counter at trade prices emoticon-0148-yes.gif

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Just to share some of my pains.

when my light came on I got it scanned and had to change the sensor after the cat.

they cleared the error code but 2 days later it came back..after €160 with fitting.

The Skoda dealer then spent 2.5 hours with her, checked all the wiring, took out the ECU and reseated it, checked all fittings, ran it through the various test programs.

cleared it for 1 day and now back again.... what a balls.

its hard to explain it but before the light came on when you put your foot down the power can be a big of lag.

I only got it remapped by a excellent tuner recently so i think i will ring him to see if I cam remove the mapping and go back to stock.

I need to see if the issue will still happen, can't keep having this light on, head wrecking..

anyway first back to the dealer, he's told me to inform him of the changes made and he is going to contact Skoda Ireland head quarters to get more help on the codes returned from their computer tests as they can't tie it down...

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get it put back to a standard map before going any further. This will eliminate the map from causing the issue. The code you are getting does indicate a failed oxygen sensor heating element, but it could be a dodgy wiring connection. Skoda are unlikely to go much further if it has been mapped.

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  • 8 months later...

Engine light faults on again same fault code why why why why

Is this a common Fault on all Vag 2.0 FSI ENGINES

According to a previous reply its the downstream sensors that fail.

Gonna have to get rid of this simply less clever skoda grrrrrrrrrr

Edited by freehighlander
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Engine light faults on again same fault code why why why why

Is this a common Fault on all Vag 2.0 FSI ENGINES

According to a previous reply its the downstream sensors that fail.

Gonna have to get rid of this simply less clever skoda grrrrrrrrrr

I had my Octavia engine management light on for 18 months - no one had been able to clear it. My Skoda dealer said that they couldn't find any fault and suggested I change the wiring loom as it might be faulty. I declined and put up with the fault. Recently the car refused to start and all sorts of faults came up when the RAC diagnostic kit was connected to it. He managed to get it to start and I took it to a local garage.

He found that several wires were rubbing against the engine and the insulation had worn away. The wires were badly corroded. He cut the damaged wires out and repaired them, one of the glow plugs was also changed as it was not working correctly. End result is that the light is now out, the car starts immediately (it had been getting harder to start)and the radio when on medium wave now works really well. Prior to this it suffered terrible interferance and has done since I bought the car secondhand about 2 1/2 years ago. The dealer always maintained they all sound like that. I suspect I have had a fault all the time I have owned the car. I can't understand why it took so long for someone to actually look and find the fault, any chance that you have a similar issue?

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