Here is mine

 

How to suck up rain water and f*** up your cone filter(as we all know water and filters don't mix, when a filter gets wet it no longer filters).  I had this CAF pipe down into the bumper for a while until one day I took it out and the cone filter had rusted to hell, parts of it had just completely deteriorated and rusted.  The metal gauze covering the element was rusty all over.  Definitely not a clever mod at all for the UK, with all the rain we get!  I`ve since modified the pipe so that the cone filter sits under the bonnet, safest place for it where it can stay dry and work at its best!  Probably losing at most 1bhp from temperature difference, but I would rather the cone filter protect the engine from dirt and remain dry!

Edited 12 March, 201412 yr by sammyhale30

How to suck up rain water and f*** up your cone filter(as we all know water and filters don't mix, when a filter gets wet it no longer filters).  I had this CAF pipe down into the bumper for a while until one day I took it out and the cone filter had rusted to hell, parts of it had just completely deteriorated and rusted.  The metal gauze covering the element was rusty all over.  Definitely not a clever mod at all for the UK, with all the rain we get!  I`ve since modified the pipe so that the cone filter sits under the bonnet, safest place for it where it can stay dry and work at its best!  Probably losing at most 1bhp from temperature difference, but I would rather the cone filter protect the engine from dirt and remain dry!

 

Whilst I get your point and yes has been a lot wetter these days not sure what the rest of your point is stating buddy....

 

I have had the CAI on now for approx 5 years and have only one had to question a level of water near me that was risky. 

 

How may cars have you heard of that have hydro locked and as i have stated many times , you need to be a right nob to drive

through high water anyway knowing you have a CAI on the car. 

Drive observing road conditions ...

 

Can't comment on your rusty CAI as maybe it was a rubbish brand or some other reason for it falling apart

 

I check mine every 6 months and clean and shinny as it was fitted , I do the K&N clean and re oil every 6 months coz i am annul.....  

 

So thanks for your comments but not really needed ....  

I always think panels are the way forward

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gef5XPoiDCE

Edited 12 March, 201412 yr by VrsLozz

I am selling this..

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Here's my 2p's worth on intakes.

 

I've spent a lot of time and money over the years, building and racing 1000cc motorbikes. Tuning and prepping such highly-strung engines teaches one a thing or two about intakes, breathing, flow, cam timing / duration / overlap, CR, and exhausts. We've done 'everything' to our motors over the years, including custom cranks and rods, programmable ignition systems to suit - the whole nine yards.

 

In the 'Open' class we were racing in, basically 'anything goes' with the engines - the only limit was 1,300cc capacity, and no forced induction. Hence, we have built and tested the lot.

 

One thing which was proven time and time again, was the fact that for decent 'all round' performance, we found that the stock factory airbox was always the best. Yes, we have seen slightly higher peak power outputs with open 'cone' filters and cold-air feeds, and even with modified airboxes with pressurised feeds. However, despite  small gain in peak power, we lost any semblance of smooth torque output curves, and rideability - i.e. the flexibility of the engine at certain RPM and throttle ranges, which translate as vitally important tractability actually 'on the track' - in order to accelerate out of different corners effectively, and without peaks and troughs in the engine's output. Which can cause the bike to bog down at best, or give a flat response followed by a huge burst of acceleration just when the rider is least expecting it - which can throw him off the bike at worst!So - in our team's experience (and most of the other teams in the paddock too) the stock airbox is the way to go. The manufacturers spend £000's on the R&D of engines, and usually settle on an airbox design which gives the best all-round tractability, response and noise levels.

 

It is hard to improve upon this, especially in road-based applications, so my advice is to leave well alone - maybe replacing the paper panel filter with a higher-flow Pipercross or K&N at the most. It will give you the best all-round performance, with an engine devoid of flat-spots or fuelling problems, and also negate the possibility of ingesting a load of water into the motor, if it is ****ing down and you drive through a monstrous puddle!

 

 

As I said though, that's just my 2p's worth on the subject...

I've just installed one of these. Lovely sound!

Whilst I get your point and yes has been a lot wetter these days not sure what the rest of your point is stating buddy....

 

I have had the CAI on now for approx 5 years and have only one had to question a level of water near me that was risky. 

 

How may cars have you heard of that have hydro locked and as i have stated many times , you need to be a right nob to drive

through high water anyway knowing you have a CAI on the car. 

Drive observing road conditions ...

 

Can't comment on your rusty CAI as maybe it was a rubbish brand or some other reason for it falling apart

 

I check mine every 6 months and clean and shinny as it was fitted , I do the K&N clean and re oil every 6 months coz i am annul.....  

 

So thanks for your comments but not really needed ....  

 

I used to think a Cold air feed on this engine made a difference until I did some further reading.  The CAF is a complete waste of time on a turbo engine and offers no performance gains,  you are basically sucking in cold air to only be heated up again by the Turbo charger, so achieving nothing.  

A CAF is good for Naturally aspirated engines but not for Turbo charged.  It's the intercoolers job to cool the air on a turbo charged engine.  Intake temperature makes no difference.

 

There was a test a friend of mine did on the Octy and he measured air temps just after the standard intercooler.  What he found was that the temperatures were consistent between standard and CAF. 

Adding the CAF didn`t make the intake charge any cooler.  The only difference between standard box and CAF as far as I can see is the CAF amplifies the turbo and dump valve sounds.  That's all!

 

Just look at the engine bays of highly tuned Nissan Skylines and Toyota Supra's.  Most Jap tuners run open cone filters directly under the bonnet!  Because the intercooler is enough to get the air temps down for power.  An intercooler even cancels out the effects of the mythical heat soak.

Edited 14 March, 201412 yr by sammyhale30

im running a pipercross panel filter in standard air box, u can hear the dv from inside the car clearly only thing i have moddified is the inside of the box by smoothing it even though i doubt it makes any difference on a stage 1 car. think boredom got the better of me lol

im running a pipercross panel filter in standard air box, u can hear the dv from inside the car clearly only thing i have moddified is the inside of the box by smoothing it even though i doubt it makes any difference on a stage 1 car. think boredom got the better of me lol

 

Would you say you hear the dv noise better with your pipercross or just mean it's as clear as it always was? Been looking at a cai and was pretty mush set on it, but thinking a panel filter is miles cheaper and I don't need to worry about deeper water (common in winter on roads up here!)

i bought the car standard except for stage 1 r tech map and forge 007p dv and could hear it back then, but was louder and more crisp with the piper cross panel filter. im running 1.2 bar boost btw.

Im back to using my standard box and a pipercross filter after having a CAI fitted. I also have the N249 bypassed and the DV is uber loud

I used to think a Cold air feed on this engine made a difference until I did some further reading.  The CAF is a complete waste of time on a turbo engine and offers no performance gains,  you are basically sucking in cold air to only be heated up again by the Turbo charger, so achieving nothing.  

A CAF is good for Naturally aspirated engines but not for Turbo charged.  It's the intercoolers job to cool the air on a turbo charged engine.  Intake temperature makes no difference.

 

There was a test a friend of mine did on the Octy and he measured air temps just after the standard intercooler.  What he found was that the temperatures were consistent between standard and CAF. 

Adding the CAF didn`t make the intake charge any cooler.  The only difference between standard box and CAF as far as I can see is the CAF amplifies the turbo and dump valve sounds.  That's all!

 

Just look at the engine bays of highly tuned Nissan Skylines and Toyota Supra's.  Most Jap tuners run open cone filters directly under the bonnet!  Because the intercooler is enough to get the air temps down for power.  An intercooler even cancels out the effects of the mythical heat soak.

 

I am not really into just doing what is read about and researching can sometimes lead people down a particular path based only only what they have read an not tested themselves. 

 

With my CAI i certainly got better  peak power and it is noticeable certainly with my state of tune. This is not going to be the case for everybody and true nothing wrong with std airbox what so ever.

 

If fact i would probably say for all round normal driving then can't beat std airbox, although I like the sound the CAI as a added bonus.

I have a modified airbox and have added a 3" feed to it and since refitted this weekend and although it does not feel so peaky at higher revs the low down torque and pick up is very good so will keep it this way for now.    

 

One thing which was proven time and time again, was the fact that for decent 'all round' performance, we found that the stock factory airbox was always the best. Yes, we have seen slightly higher peak power outputs with open 'cone' filters and cold-air feeds, and even with modified airboxes with pressurised feeds. However, despite  small gain in peak power, we lost any semblance of smooth torque output curves, and rideability - i.e. the flexibility of the engine at certain RPM and throttle ranges, which translate as vitally important tractability actually 'on the track' - in order to accelerate out of different corners effectively, and without peaks and troughs in the engine's output. Which can cause the bike to bog down at best, or give a flat response followed by a huge burst of acceleration just when the rider is least expecting it - which can throw him off the bike at worst!So - in our team's experience (and most of the other teams in the paddock too) the stock airbox is the way to go. The manufacturers spend £000's on the R&D of engines, and usually settle on an airbox design which gives the best all-round tractability, response and noise levels.

 

It is hard to improve upon this, especially in road-based applications, so my advice is to leave well alone - maybe replacing the paper panel filter with a higher-flow Pipercross or K&N at the most. It will give you the best all-round performance, with an engine devoid of flat-spots or fuelling problems, and also negate the possibility of ingesting a load of water into the motor, if it is ****ing down and you drive through a monstrous puddle!

 

 

As I said though, that's just my 2p's worth on the subject...

 

You have some valid points that i have also found. 

 

These 2 in particular 

 

"However, despite  small gain in peak power, we lost any semblance of smooth torque output curves

 

It will give you the best all-round performance, with an engine devoid of flat-spots or fuelling problems"

 

This is what has lead me to just  refit my airbox as 90% of the time I am in normal driving mode and the smooth pick up and is welcomed. 

 

Although the modified airbox (de fined) and added 3" feed with green panel filter defo works better than bog std for me The way the car gets air into the std snorkel through the wing is very poor.