2.0 TDI Coolant loss. Anyone tried Chemiweld or Seal lock to fix it?

[Stinky Pete]

I have a 2006 2.0 TDI with a very slow coolant loss. It goes from Max to Min over 2000kms. I've traced the probelm to a cracked or porous head. The cracks are into the exhaust gallery on #2 so there is no effect at all on performance or operation of the car. Its been like this since we bought the car 18 months ago and the amount of water being lost has not changed. Given the crack/s is/are in a low preassure area I'm wondering if a chemical leak stop will work. Chem-i-weld, Bars leaks, Seal lock and Blue Devil are some that come to mind. Anyone tried these with any success? Likewise has anyone got any reasons why I should not try to seal the crack this way? Interested in comments, cheers

[illavehalf]

How are you so sure regarding the location of the leak? Just wondered that's all! I have in the past tried barrs radseal and found it does a sort of fix but if your head is as you say a better idea would be to remove it get it pressure tested to make sure it's the head that has gone and get a replacement it's not worth risking it becausethe coolant you are losing won't be doing the innards of your mill any good also the head will fail probably when and where it's least convenient causing a completely cooked mill as oppeswd to just a new head! Me I'd bite the bullet it's not worth the risk , also what effect will the g12. Coolant have on the stuff and vice versatile!

[Stinky Pete]

How are you so sure regarding the location of the leak? Just wondered that's all! I have in the past tried barrs radseal and found it does a sort of fix but if your head is as you say a better idea would be to remove it get it pressure tested to make sure it's the head that has gone and get a replacement it's not worth risking it becausethe coolant you are losing won't be doing the innards of your mill any good also the head will fail probably when and where it's least convenient causing a completely cooked mill as oppeswd to just a new head! Me I'd bite the bullet it's not worth the risk , also what effect will the g12. Coolant have on the stuff and vice versatile!

Good thoughts, thanks. I actually have the manifold off the car a the moment resolving a turbo overboost issue and found the source of the leak by chance. The car has been on ramps for a few day and I notice a small pool of water under the car. A closer look and I can see the water dripping from the #2 port. Putting my finger inside the head and its very wet in there. I have already had cylinder leakage test and every other test doen buy the agent and they found nothing.

[Stuart_J]

Unless sealants have improved be careful, they used to have a knack of clogging heater matrixes & radiators

This is based on experiences 20 years ago but changing a heater matrix was an absolute pig.

With the car off the road can you not get the head sorted

[Stinky Pete]

Unless sealants have improved be careful, they used to have a knack of clogging heater matrixes & radiators

This is based on experiences 20 years ago but changing a heater matrix was an absolute pig.

With the car off the road can you not get the head sorted

Could do the head completely but I'm looking at about $3000 to do this. Given that cars performance is not affected in any way and the agent could not find the leak, or any fault for that matter, I'm sort of reluctant to spend that sort of money. I could just leave it as is and continue to top up it up even few weeks as I have done for the past 18 months. The sealants of today seem to be a lot more sophisticated hence the question. The advice I'm getting locally from very experienced people is give it a try, products like K Seal, which has ceramic particals in it, have been recommended.

[patrolman]

I have a 2006 2.0 TDI with a very slow coolant loss. It goes from Max to Min over 2000kms. I've traced the probelm to a cracked or porous head. The cracks are into the exhaust gallery on #2 so there is no effect at all on performance or operation of the car. Its been like this since we bought the car 18 months ago and the amount of water being lost has not changed. Given the crack/s is/are in a low preassure area I'm wondering if a chemical leak stop will work. Chem-i-weld, Bars leaks, Seal lock and Blue Devil are some that come to mind. Anyone tried these with any success? Likewise has anyone got any reasons why I should not try to seal the crack this way? Interested in comments, cheers

If your going down this route ,it has to be K SEAL !

http://www.k-seal.co.uk/

Edited 18 March, 2011 by patrol man

[des p]

As above,K-seal.I use it at work and it has been a great addition to my spares kit.

[Stinky Pete]

I your going down this route ,it has to be K SEAL !

http://www.k-seal.co.uk/

Thanks, I've heard some good reports, one locally is from a guy who builds racing engines for enthuiasts, he puts it in the cooling system of all his cars as a precaution. Swears by it!

Edited 18 March, 2011 by Stinky Pete

[andyvee]

Had a pinhole leak in my radiator the other day, K-Seal has done the trick.

My mechanic (who has 40 years experience as a rally team mechanic) swears by it.

Don't put it in until you have the engine back together and go for a drive straight away to get the engine up to temperature and work it round the system.