Just quick before I go to work,

I have just got the TT hub assys.

On looking on ETKA the CV joints are the same for our vRS as it is on the TT. I have put a vRS shaft into the TThub and they are a perfect fit, everything seems the same.

ONLY

where oure hub nut goes in and tightens, the TT one doesnt, there is another ring in there which leads me to beleive that either a diff nut is used or the end shaft of the TT cv is longet?

Thats what I need to find out, anyone got pics of the TT on?

Also Ive read threads and cant seem to find if the TT Hub can be pressed with out actual hub and a new bearing? when I say our hub I mean the part the wheel bolts to.

Cheers

sorry no pics but I have to dash or ill be late again lol

billy

i have a recollection about tts using a bolt to tighten not a nut, could be wrong tho!

keep me posted!

I dont know about tt's but i did a spring on a passat other day and it had a sort of 17mm female headed bolt holding driveshaft in, same 17mm plug you use to change gearbox oil

I was thinkin same. Ill put pics up tonights of what I mean. Has anyone actually used TT hub assy on the vRS? Or did sweedish can it in end and just use std ones with cast bones?

On ETKA the cv joints are the same as are the bearings. Didn't check the nuts tho so ill check that too.

Tbh the way I drive I don't really need all this lot lol. Same as the power. Tis still nice to say you have it tho lol

So long as weather is good ill try make up a nice thread for all with pn in it and stuff.

Cheers

Oet is sweedish

lol or Luca if you prefer

the i used everything but the tt hubs (still to do)

i know the 4x4 ones will not fit without changing some bits over, whether thats the bearing and the flange or just the flange am not sure. As said i think, the 4wds use a bolt on the driveshafts whereas we use a nut. I didnt look much past that to be honest as i decided i would get the fwd tt hub that fits without having to change any other parts over.

Is there any point to fitting the TT Hub then?

Luca I guess you have TT Wishbones, TT Ball Joints, R32 FARB, R32 / S3 Rack with VRS ends right.

If using a VRS Hub the wishbone ball joints need spacing to not foul the Hub / Driveshaft?

So perhaps the TT Hub just gives the better clearance for ball joint.

Or is it more to do with the way the strut fits the TT Hub that gives a better angle.

hey Mark, yes thats right, tho i think i also have the tt rack ends turned upside down....it was ages ago so i forget!

the balljoints need spacing to pull them properly inline inside the hub, its to do with the taper being different on the vrs balljoints to the tt balljoints.

The washer i used was a standard 2mm washer, just big enough to go over the balljoint before placing in the hub.

The reason you ideally want to use the tt hub, is that it allows for correct aligment of the front geometry. The driveshaft sits at an improved angle to the vrs setup.

Using the complete tt setup allows you to track the car as such, rather than being a hybrid, and gives a much better setup than the standard vrs. My car really is nothing like it was stock nowdays.

Oet is sweedish

I did wonder where he went

i'm still here fatty5000 :yes:

changed his name Sep 04 2010 @ 11:13 ( I'm not a wierdo stalker, there's a tool on the user profile control panel thingy )

changed his name Sep 04 2010 @ 11:13 ( I'm not a wierdo stalker, there's a tool on the user profile control panel thingy )

lol....weirdo....

Ill post pics up when I get home to show you the diff. I think the main thing about them is there is a longer bit at the bottom where the ball joint connects so in essence everything is very similar in hight but it pushes the wishbones down more so rather than a lowered car having them slant up they will be slantin down slightly so when you corner they go level to give max width to the car if than makes sence.

And yes the TT tie rod ends point up and ours point down.

Ill photo everything before and after.

I'd say the TT hubs are a must for anyone lowering their car as iirc the vRS is as low as you can go on the std hubs and arms to keep the best angles. There was a thread about it a bit back.

Sorry Sweedish didn't know.

Billy

Ok as promised, a bit later due to having to wait 3hr for the load to be done so ended up finishing 2.5 hr later than I was hoping.

Firts off.

The TT Hub assy both Quattro and FWD are the same as are the Bearings.

the things that differ are the outer Flange:

FWD TT/Octavia vRS

Quattro TT/R32/S3

Notice the centre where our Nut goes.

These are the CV joints:

Octavia vRS

Quattro TT/R32/S3

Ours use a Nut and the 4WD cars use a female ended CV shaft for some reason?

This is what you get when using the vRS drive shafts: vRS then TT Quattro

this is one of the side by side:

The main importand difference is the part the Ball joint goes in to.

vRS

TT

so there are the comparrisons. the sizes are the same and the TT one doesnt seem to be pushed out any further than the vRS one and the thicknesses are the same.

in teory it is an easy swap for me to do. Remove all the inners of the TT one and mine. put New bearings in the TT ones and the vRS flanges and bobs ur uncle fanny's ur aunt. The end result will be (I am guessing) a slightly lower car(2-5mm) but (the important part) the wishbones will be angled down rather than up so when the springs compress in a corner the wishbones are level to give maximum track width to the car and not fold up even more making the car even narrower.

think that right and you get what I mean?

Right I am off to bed. enjoy your day at work guys while I am sleeping lol

Billy

Yeah that sounds spot on Billy.

TT hub carriers with new bearings installed, with vRS driveshafts, and vRS hub flanges and hub nuts.

The other alternative is switching to the TT driveshafts, and using the TT hub flanges and hub bolts.

I wonder why the TT driveshafts are different then, because the vRS has a pretty good driveshaft setup as it is. The vRS driveshafts have Tripod inner joints and CV outer joints. Plus it uses the 108mm gearbox output flanges.

exactly that billy, it allows for the wishbone to sit much flatter in the corner, and is much better than what i have done which is use my existing hub with the tt front end setup as my wishbones cannot sit as flat as yours will once this is fitted to your car.

how much did you pay for the tt hubs by the way?

75 notes lol. delivered

I thought it was a good deal. was a lad on edtn 38 I did a search and he been trying to sell for a few month now but due to the speed the forsale part goes on there think ppl forgot.

Was quoted 50 each plus vat from one breaker on fleabay plus postage and 2 otheres didnt have them. All I wanted was the assy tho, as I want new bearings in them no matter what. gona try and have pritty much all new stuff go on so new bushes in the arms too only std ones tho as £70+ forthe superpro rears is bit too much lol.

I know what you mean tho Luca, its far easier to just mix n match and IF i was not having this grinding crap then Id of just done that as it is still way way way better than std. but seen as they were cheap and it needs repressing ne way I thought why not do it properly lol.

I dont even use it to its full potential ne way lol. the only thing that scares me is the brakes hence the nice big ones which reminds me I need to see if they fit with the splash guards. Not sure if they are diff.

Do you think I should just leave the hubs as is just clean them a tad? or could I put a tad of paint on them to protect them?

Thoughts

billy

Wire brush and slop on some krust, then plenty of copper grease

thats really good billy, 75 a pair, so how much were the bearings, and then you used your flanges, either way doesnt sound like it will cost loads and is the ideal setup. You have given me motivation to finish my setup off and get hold of some 4x4 ones instead.

As you said it is worth doing the bearings!

When i fitted my setup i cleaned and painted everything with POR15, its really good stuff as is basically rust and chip proof. Might be worth doing if you can be bothered but it does take a lot longer to do lol.

I think the splash guards may not fit, you might nee to cut them down a bit

Yea mate, I thought so. Bearings were 28each from tps iirc. On etka there is 2 diff ones for the LCR brembo one, one is £27 and othere is 7 lol bit of a jump but the pics are the same. Ill see. The ones on the tt hubs seem pritty new ne way and they are much thicker and stronger than ours too. Ill put the disc and calliper on it in mornin when I get home.

Need to remember to see if I got the leave days too. Sounds like I got a lot of work and pics to take lol.

Luca, arnt the FWD TT ones the same? Just with the same flange as ours? Or are the hubs the same as ours too?

Ill post up all prices n that too. Shouldn't be that much to get them stripped and pressed seen as there is no real work to do.

hi Billy, not the 2wd are the same but with the same flanges as ours to save swapping everything over, but you are right, if we are going to the effort of changing hubs then its worth putting new bearings in. Let me know how you get on, as you said its not big job with a press. Gonna start looking out for some 4x4 hubs, as the pics you have done really show the difference between vrs and tt spec.

Which bearings did you get?

Right.

New thread will be made of all the things I will be doin and parts used.

I have the 5 days off so its gonna be a long weekend lol. Can't wait to get it done.

Billy