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Rattling Cured...But....ARB, LINKS, NYLOCK?

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Hi there

Very long story short - had unbelievably annoying low speed front-end rattling.

Changed wishbones and balljoints to no avail.

Droplinks were solid as a rock.

THEN, holding the bottom joint of one of the droplinks and shaking the car we found the problem.

The joint rattled a little but that noise obviously vibrated along the substantial R32 ARB.

Woo hoo!!

So, now I am replacing the droplinks 1J0411316D and 1J0411315D.

The new versions of these droplinks come with Nyloc nuts.

The old nuts had to be tightened to 90Nm (top nut) and 15Nm and turn a further 90 degrees (bottom nut)

Does anyone know if this is the same for these new nyloc bolts?

I've heard that an amount of torque is just to overcome friction on these bolts and they are easy to over-tighten and difficult to remove....

Just found a similar thread - Bowders1 suggests 22lb/ft - is this for both bolts?

Edited by mackdaddy

A new Nyloc doesn't have any thread cut in the nylon insert. A degree of force is needed to cut this thread, but you should havee finished cutting the thread before you apply the clamping force. Now here comes the tricky bit. Once you have cut this thread, you should only tighten the nut, since you can't accurately set a torque on a "used" Nyloc.

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Thanks Ken

The links aren't the same manufacturer.

One has the 'bolts' with a hex insert, the other doesn't.

So, using a new Nyloc, do I just hand tighten the bolts then torque up as usual (To Bowders1's 22lb/ft) on the one link and torque using the hex insert on the other?

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