Hello

I've noticed on occasion recently that one or both of my rear doors are sometimes not locking/unlocking with the others. It doesn't happen all the time but is fairly often. I do intend to check for water ingress although I am doubtful it's that as the pollen filter has been re-sealed and the drain plugs in the plenum removed.

Anyone come across anything similar?

Monday,11,April,2011,08:50:09:47767

VCDS Version: Release 10.6.3

Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1C0-959-799.lbl

Control Module Part Number: 1C0 959 799 B

Component and/or Version: EB Komfortgerát HLO 0004

Software Coding: 00259

Work Shop Code: WSC 00028

Additional Info: 1C0959802 EB Tõrsteuer.FS KLO 0202

Additional Info: 1C0959801A EB Tõrsteuer.BF KLO 0202

Additional Info: 3U0959811 EB Tõrsteuer.HL KLO 0202

Additional Info: 3U0959812 EB Tõrsteuer.HR KLO 0202

VCID: 3668978D38C1

3 Faults Found:

01358 - Internal Central Locking Switch; Driver Side (E150)

27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

00930 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Rear Left (F222)

27-00 - Implausible Signal

00931 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Rear Right (F223)

27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

Hello

I've had exactly the same issue for the rear left door. The door started to exhibit the lock/unlock issue about one year ago and it got worse over time to the point the door wouldn't lock or unlock at all sometimes ( but sometimes it would either lock and not unlock or viceversa ). If it's not the water ingress ( it wasn't the case for me either, fixed it long time ago - kudos to you guys here ) then I have bad news: for me it turned out to be the motor which actually locks ( or unlocks ) the door. The bad news is the motor is located in the door locking assembly and to get to it you have to completely take the locking assembly out from the door ( which is major PITA especially if you didn't do this before - like me ). Long story cut short: the carbon dust which results from the motor brushes wearing out deposits on the rotor and the brushes don't make proper contact to the rotor ( and hence the motor stops working properly ). I took apart the motor, cleaned the rotor with some fine sand paper and put it back together ( the brushes had plenty of meat left and the rotor looked very good so the fix will last ). If you decide to do the same thing make sure you take some photos of the locking assembly before you take it apart ( I didn't and when I put it back together I got one spring left which I ended up not putting back - all the locking/unlocking functions of the door seem to work ok without that spring ). The whole thing took me half a day ( an experienced mechanic should take much less time though ).

Edited 11 April, 201115 yr by sunfire

And if it fails in the locked position and you can't get the door open at all, then it's a hammer and chisel job on the lock to get the door open to take the lock out, I'm afraid.

I had a similar problem with my driver's door, cured it by spraying plenty of W D 40 thru the handle while it was pulled back.

I've got this too - or something similar. The N/S/R door has played up for about a year now, when locking/unlocking by the remote - never had any problem with the handle release. Usually, it plays up intermittently for a week or two, then OK for a month or two, then plays up for a week or two again. The one thing that usually gets the door back in sync with the other doors is, when trying to lock the car, to manually open the door from the inside and then shut it, then lock with the remote. It nearly always works then.

The O/S/R door has now started joining in too, though both doors seem to do it completely randomly. Neither front door has ever done this though. Yet.

One helpful thing I did eventually realise - after having the alarm 'chirp' on setting activated via VagCom - is that if the alarm chirps when you lock the car, all is well. If it doesn't chirp, one of the doors is still unlocked.

In addition to the cuase described in a post above, could this also be due to the dry joints I've read about?

cheers

Just out of curiosity, have you had your battery disconnected at any time recently? This same fault happened to me after I had had the battery disconnected whilst conducting some body repairs.

A scan of fault codes, clear fault codes and then reset the ecu by disconnecting battery overnight cured it for me. Hope it helps you.

Does anyone know whether the door lock assembly of the N/S/R door (I believe part # 3B4 839 015 A) is the same as that of a Passat?

– notably the exact way it attaches to the metal carrier behind the door trim, as the door has a different shape?

I believe they’re cheaper (quelle surprise!) than the £112 SUK wants. :'(

Or there again, if it is the same, are there too many different variants depending on build date to make it worthwhile. :(

I believe the unit is the same as some of those fitted to the Passat, but as you say, they changed at different dates so I'm not sure which one it would be the same as. Best bet would be to get the part number and see if you can cross reference it.

I've had a lot on recently so didn't get around to looking at this until it was too late - so I now have a door which doesn't open - DOH!

Anyone know the least destructive way of opening the door? Looking on here I found someone suggesting it may be possible to manually flick the deadlock (once the door card is off), or is that wishful thinking? I'm not too concerned about the cost of a new catch, but I want to avoid damage to the bodywork.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated as always.

Anyone know the least destructive way of opening the door?

It may not be so bad -

At the moment I've got my door card off and carrier only held on by three bolts. Until I get round to finishing the job (that I must be able to do by the end of the day as it's parked outside) it'll stay like that. But the door is at least (semi)usable.

With the front door open, release the rubber trunking from halfway up the B pillar. This will expose two electrical connectors. The upper one supplies the speakers in the rear door. The lower one supplies the window, puddle light, door card illumination - and central locking.

So just remove the lower connector, power is cut to the solenoid, and the door becomes openable. OK, so without power it won't then deadlock and you can't open the window, but it's 1000 times better than having it stuck deadlocked.

Have to be careful getting that connector off though, if you want it all to work after the lock's done.

Need a slim flat screwdriver, preferably bent so you can get to release the clip on the far side without snapping the clip.

Well, it worked for me - was I relieved, you bet!

cheers

Edited 5 May, 201115 yr by sidewaze samm

Thanks for the idea! Sadly no such luck for me. Tried pulling the plug you mentioned and also disconnected the battery but the door is still deadlocked.

For info, I found the bottle opener on a leatherman is ideal for releasing the lug on the back of the plug

I did notice someone suggesting 'shocking' the deadlock motor with a higher voltageto try and get it to unlock. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Thanks again

P.s... Does anyone know if a jammed rear door will fail an mot? Mine has expired (going for test on Monday).

Thanks for the idea! Sadly no such luck for me. Tried pulling the plug you mentioned and also disconnected the battery but the door is still deadlocked.

Hmm... does that mean it's purely a mechanical failing of sime kind within the lock itself?

But your OP mentioned that both rear doors played up intermittently. Coincidence?

How's the other door behaving now? My other rear door and the front door had also just started to play up, but since I've disconnected the power to the problem door, these two have behaved normally.

good luck

Since this door packed up completely, the others have been fine. I've managed to get the door card off without damage but am struggling with the metal plate inside the door. The lock mechanism is tucked up out of reach.... I was hoping it would be exposed once the door card was off :-(

Since this door packed up completely, the others have been fine. I've managed to get the door card off without damage but am struggling with the metal plate inside the door. The lock mechanism is tucked up out of reach.... I was hoping it would be exposed once the door card was off :-(

I'd say well done indeed for getting the door card off - I wasn't fancying that at all. Like I said, I fell lucky that my door opened and gave me the chance to work on it. It would open about once in 50 or more attempts - just repeatedly using the switch on the driver's door as well as the remote... Sometimes when unlocking/locking I could see the knob on the top of the door 'shake' a bit, like it was trying to open; but usually there was no sign of life at all.

I'm certainly no expert in the least, but I'm puzzled why your symptoms are so similar to mine yet cutting the power won't release the lock. I've read somewhere (taligentX ?) that some people have had success by thumping the lock area with the hand while repeatedly trying the handle - maybe you should try doing both...?

and Allclowns' tip from an earlier post too?

good luck

Edited 6 May, 201115 yr by sidewaze samm

Thanks for the advice. I tried knocking the door, pulling re handle, repeatedly unlocking etc but no luck.

I have just managed to open the door by smashing the deadlock motor off with a hammer and long screw driver. Not much fun but at least I have avoided damage to the door.

Now, I wonder how Much SUK will rape me for?

I have just managed to open the door by smashing the deadlock motor off with a hammer and long screw driver. Not much fun but at least I have avoided damage to the door.

Now, I wonder how Much SUK will rape me for?

Phew - drastic action. Any chance of being able to tell what was wrong with it?

New unit from SUK - £112 !!

but there are cheaper versions on ebay if you fancy it (around £40)

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180579777077&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Make sure you check your part number first!

cheers