Hi All,

My 1.4 16v 100bhp Elegance has a strange problem its only just had a diagnostic check done, and the rear exhaust sensor was replaced being the only fault to show up. It does not do it for a few weeks then whilst stationary the revs begin to hunt, it does not stall just go down low then pick back up. I then hold down the accelerator for a second or two taking the revs to a steady 1500,this then sorts it out and the car returns to being perfect and the revs are as if nothing has ever happened. Only does it stationary please help would like to sort it.

Edited 14 May, 201115 yr by hobbo

i am of no help in solving this problem, but i have the exact same problem. at idle at the lights every now and again the revs drop it sort of revs a bit and it goes back to normal. does anybody have any idea what this may be. cheers in advance

Mine did it a few times too. Blipped the throttle up to a few thousand rmp and it was sorted again.

My current car (same block different internals and head), does it too, well, it mis-fires too, which I think is due to a crack in the coil pack outlets.

Hi All,

My 1.4 16v 100bhp Elegance has a strange problem its only just had a diagnostic check done, and the rear exhaust sensor was replaced being the only fault to show up. It does not do it for a few weeks then whilst stationary the revs begin to hunt, it does not stall just go down low then pick back up. I then hold down the accelerator for a second or two taking the revs to a steady 1500,this then sorts it out and the car returns to being perfect and the revs are as if nothing has ever happened. Only does it stationary please help would like to sort it.

It needs to have it's ECU wiped and reset as it's trying to find a suitable idle point, go to my post:

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/201016-how-to-reset-the-engine-ecu/

This should sort it!! I tend to do this even if I'm fitting a new fuel filter, or air filter!!!

Hi All,

My 1.4 16v 100bhp Elegance has a strange problem its only just had a diagnostic check done, and the rear exhaust sensor was replaced being the only fault to show up. It does not do it for a few weeks then whilst stationary the revs begin to hunt, it does not stall just go down low then pick back up. I then hold down the accelerator for a second or two taking the revs to a steady 1500,this then sorts it out and the car returns to being perfect and the revs are as if nothing has ever happened. Only does it stationary please help would like to sort it.

This, I have been told on several occasions is due to the coolant temperature sensor being faulty. I had the very same problem before, it was intermittant and strangely enough seemed to occur more often on hills.

Ever since I changed that sensor though I haven't had any problems, and it's a cheap part too.

Here's the how too, it's a little bit tricky, and a little tip, make sure when you take out the old sensor the o-ring comes out with it (if you are replacing the o-ring). http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/201016-how-to-reset-the-engine-ecu/

Here is the part: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Skoda-Fabia-Octavia-Engine-Temperature-Sensor-O-E-NEW-/150571750898?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item230ec695f2

Edited 18 May, 201115 yr by iaino

Hi

Thanks for the replys I think I will get the coolant temp sensor changed next month and see what happens from there many thanks. I will pass on the ECU reset procedure to my garage.

A surging tickover and occassional momentary loss of revs/power (which feels like slamming on the brakes for a second) seem to be a "design feature" (read flaw) of the VW 1.4 16v petrol engine, it is refreshing to hear that other people have the same troubles. Mine used to be quite bad but it is much better now after the following things I've tried - throttle body clean and adaptation, EGR clean, crankcase breather hose clean, regular use of super unleaded fuel and injector treatment, renewal of coolant temperature sensor, servicing at a independent VW garage who use VW spec Quantum oil (made a big difference), making sure I give it the beans once in a while. I do notice that after a few short runs etc. you can see that the idle is less stable - not hunting but just wandering around a bit and this makes the surging tickover more likely to happen so the engine does need to be revved into the upper half of the rev range on occasion. I've not tried the ECU reset so that would be something interesting to have a go at. As a final thing out of desperation, it is also easy to replace the coil pack, HT leads and spark plugs yourself and the parts can be sourced from ebay so that may be worth a try just to eliminate these from being at fault. Good luck!

When I bought my car new in 2001 I was a bit worried as it needs 98ron unleaded (super) and we didn't have any up here. So I used to put additives in...then Shell brought out Optimax (later branded Vpower) and I have used it ever since!! I have always with my cars used Mobil 1 engine oil after the inital "run-in" period with the car. Also I knew that the car needs to be "used" as when you look at the specs for max bhp and max torque...both of these are quite a way up the rev range!!! Also with the fact that you have alloy camshaft carrier, alloy sump, alloy gearbox case, alloy crankshaft case (you can't take the crankshaft out of the case as the case warps!) this is a light semi race spec engine and needs to be treated as such.....Cleaning the throttle valve, crankcase breather hoses/filter etc should be done at regular intervals on most cars anyway..because of the carp that gets in there.

To many people are now getting these cars when the previous owners have skimped on oil, fuel, etc.....it's a great engine...so long as you look after it....and "drive" it properly (wait till it warms up.....and let it cool down properly)!!! I drive mine on back country twisty roads in 2nd or 3rd gear, with the rev needle sitting at up to 6,200rpm!!!

Hi

My car is booked in for next Tue the 24th May to have the coolant temp sensor changed. My garage have also asked me to write a note explaining the problem so that the diagnostics guy they use can just check that the throttle body idle is set right aswell. I will also put some fuel additive in next fill up. I am using Mobil super 3000 5W 30 Fully Synthetic for oil top as my garage says thats the right oil for this car. They use it when they do oil changes on VW group cars.

How much does the revs fluctuate? it might be a sticky EGR valve.

Hi,

I had a new EGR Valve fitted back in December when I got the car as it was faulty so I dont think its that. The revs hunt between 900 and around 400 and rise and fall until you hold them at around 1500 to 2000 for a couple of seconds then it stops doing it for a few days or so. Its hard to tell when its going to do it as you get no warning. And there is no pattern ie only on hills.

Did you do the ecu reset???

http://briskoda.net/...the-engine-ecu/

This phenomenon could also be caused by an erratic pre-catalyst lambda sensor.

This phenomenon could also be caused by an erratic pre-catalyst lambda sensor.

Fault code scan should show up this????

I have two of these on my car....had to replace both......only get the OEM ones from the dealers (made by NGK but says NTK????) replace these after trying everthing else as not cheap!!!

Hi,

The ECU was reset via VAG COM after the EGR and the throttle body clean was done.

Hi,

I had the coolant temp sensor changed for a new genuine one, got told no fault codes showing at all on a Vag Com system. If this does not sort it the garage said that the next thing would be to replace the throttle body on the car. So fingers crossed its got sorted.

Hi

Well that did not sort it, it did it again so looks like I will live with it until it starts to cause more of a problem as a new throttle body fitted will cost alot and dont have that kind of money at present.

Had the same problem a while back & tried new cts but no joy. Ended up the ECU was shot.hope yours isn't this though

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk

Edited 11 February, 201412 yr by crapcable