Giving the Yeti a more than thorough clean and polish (Autoglym products) noticed a build up of damp mud deposit between the front mudlaps and the wheelarch which could cause a long term corrosion problem. Rear mudflaps not a problem as adjacent to black plastic skirt only. Not noticable until you pull the front mudflap towards you.

If you pull the mudflap slightly away from the wheelarch, in between the wheelarch and the mudflap

is a narrow channel that traps a channel of damp mud. As it is touching the edge of the paint work

near the flange it could easily lead to corrosion.

A few seconds gently pulling the mudflap towards you and a quick wipe solves the problem.

Maybe I am still in a Morris Marina build quality time warp but continual damp+salt+air quickly leads to corrosion

as sharp panel edges are prone to a minimum of paint application.

Bye the way I have found Autoglym Bumper Care pretty good for the black plastic trim (as good as Peanut butter??)

provided you give it a good vigorous wipe off. If you leave it as applied without doing this you get

a vertical streaking effect after rain which also seems to apply to most of the other products I have tried so far.

Autoglym Vinyl and Rubber Care not nearly as good in achieving a uniform lasting finish. I use it on door seals/tyre dressing.

Anyone tried the shopping channel polish products (Showroom Shine/Body Shield Pro??).

Also are the clear coat touch up pens any good??. They always demonstrate them so you can't see if an even coat is

applied, which may cover the scratch but leave a messy uneven raised finish. I understand they are no good if paint and not just clear coat is removed.

Edited 22 May, 201115 yr by kibby

Good tip kibby, will look out for this when the first wash becomes due. I am also very familiar with the build quality of vehicles in the 70s/80s I think things have moved on a great deal since those days thank gawd! you very rarely see a rusty modern car unless it's been sadly neglected. But anyway better to be safe than sorry, wonder if it's possible to seal the flaps in any way ie by taking them off and running a bead of sealant on the mating surfaces before refitting? Just a thought, can't say I've had a good look at them yet. I used to find 'food safe lube' was good for plastic bumpers, you had to make sure you didn't leave too much residial as flies loved it :(

Good tip kibby, will look out for this when the first wash becomes due. I am also very familiar with the build quality of vehicles in the 70s/80s I think things have moved on a great deal since those days thank gawd! you very rarely see a rusty modern car unless it's been sadly neglected. But anyway better to be safe than sorry, wonder if it's possible to seal the flaps in any way ie by taking them off and running a bead of sealant on the mating surfaces before refitting? Just a thought, can't say I've had a good look at them yet. I used to find 'food safe lube' was good for plastic bumpers, you had to make sure you didn't leave too much residial as flies loved it :(

Not sure if a run of sealant would do job as if done in situ would be a bit hit and miss (difficult to apply and when you push/let it return would seal remain where it was applied) It could end up causing even a bigger uneven trapping area.

Edited 22 May, 201115 yr by kibby

Any opinions on shopping channel polishes (Showroom Shine/Body Shield Pro) and clear coat touch up pens to cover scratches? Polish prices (generally 2 for £20 +p&p appear to be reasonable say compared with Autoglym products).

I like the Autoglym range apart from the white residue you get from Super Resin Polish.

The shopping channel products don't suffer from this drawback. Too good to be true??

Do they do as then say on the tin!! Can't quite believe this no water wash first/won't scratch when rubbing on

claim they make!!

My thoughts are that you need a lot of product/micro fibre cloths to clean off dried on dirt and if dried on

not convinced product will get between dirt/stones and paint to protect. The act of applying pressure would cause

scratches surely.

Would be as quick to go round with a bucket of water first then use product but then destroys case for buying

product in first place.

Reviews on line are mixed, some rave and other say it still causes scratching. Also if applied to black trim

it leaves an unattractive uneven matt finish.

Won't give them a go unless forum members recommend either of them.

Any other wax products that don't leave a white residue?. I get a white line where protection foil on rear door meets

the paintwork which if I try to remove will probably peel the foil away. People often remark someone has scratched your car!

Edited 23 May, 201115 yr by kibby

Giving the Yeti a more than thorough clean and polish (Autoglym products) noticed a build up of damp mud deposit between the front mudlaps and the wheelarch which could cause a long term corrosion problem. Rear mudflaps not a problem as adjacent to black plastic skirt only. Not noticable until you pull the front mudflap towards you.

If you pull the mudflap slightly away from the wheelarch, in between the wheelarch and the mudflap

is a narrow channel that traps a channel of damp mud. As it is touching the edge of the paint work

near the flange it could easily lead to corrosion.

A few seconds gently pulling the mudflap towards you and a quick wipe solves the problem.

Maybe I am still in a Morris Marina build quality time warp but continual damp+salt+air quickly leads to corrosion

as sharp panel edges are prone to a minimum of paint application.

Bye the way I have found Autoglym Bumper Care pretty good for the black plastic trim (as good as Peanut butter??)

provided you give it a good vigorous wipe off. If you leave it as applied without doing this you get

a vertical streaking effect after rain which also seems to apply to most of the other products I have tried so far.

Autoglym Vinyl and Rubber Care not nearly as good in achieving a uniform lasting finish. I use it on door seals/tyre dressing.

Anyone tried the shopping channel polish products (Showroom Shine/Body Shield Pro??).

Also are the clear coat touch up pens any good??. They always demonstrate them so you can't see if an even coat is

applied, which may cover the scratch but leave a messy uneven raised finish. I understand they are no good if paint and not just clear coat is removed.

Had the Autoglym Lifeshine done on mine together with their bag of detailing goodies. Tried the Bumper Care but still prefer my old favourite, so easy, no mess and long lasting:-

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/interior/303-aerospace-protectant/prod_366.html