Sort of a follow up thread to my earlier one about washing and waxing... What regular maintenance do people generally do? I've read the recommended things in the skoda and haynes manual, but was wondering if there was a different consensus? For example, I know it doesn't apply to my engine, but I've read threads saying timing belt should be changed at 40k instead of the recommended 60k....

To be frank, I was going to use this car as a cheap run around till I have some NCB under my belt and upgrade...but I'm starting to get quite fond of Furby and would like to keep him around...hence willing to give a bit of TLC.

I had a 60k service done a few weeks ago where the following were changed: oil, oil filter, air filter, pollen filter & spark plugs. Garage told me to do another oil change in another 10k....I was considering changing the oil and air filters myself and leaving the messy oil for the garage (to keep costs down). Previous owner put new tyres on before selling and had them balanced. They put a new JVC ICE system too.

I'd rather spend money on making it run better than modding it like a boy racer. So, any other parts I should consider changing/upgrading to keep it running smoothly and maybe gaining a few mpg? (I've accepted the 8v is a fuel guzzler :/ )

Edited 19 July, 201114 yr by fsa

this is my list, hope it helps:

inlet and exhaust:

change filter, stock is suficient, but you might go 3rd party

replace air inlet trump, it does make a diference on stock MPi engine

use good spark plugs with the correct heat range (very important) and you might use 3/4 electrode type (just make sure gap is .70)

clean butterfly and remove MAP, Oil, CAM (both) and give them a good clean.

use Marvel Mistery Oil with oil for the recomended amout of time, then use the thinest oil with a flush to clean the engine as much as possible before switching to the permanent oil, get the biggest oil filter (its like 15% bigger but makes a huge diference)

remove injectos and clean them with carb cleaner, let them sit as long as posible (check the manifold it might be dirty as hell too and clean that)

keep cat, but if clogged try a bigger one, do a mufflerectomy or change to fiber muffler for the backbox (for sound only)

ALWAYS USE THE CORRECT COOLANT AND OIL (i live in very hot climate and ive seen a lot of head gaskets being replace for not following those rules)

remove and clean all sensor electrical contacts, reset computer and do a tune up (60)

check for any type of sound coming out of the engine and fix cause (hissing, winning, etc...)

clean the engine (makes it look good)

buy stiff front suspencion bushes (give better feel on the stearing and dont brake as often) when you need to replace them

change manual transmision oil per manual, but always use recomended oil.

adjust rear brake pad when level passes the 2nd click, replace as needed,

change light bulbs with led (parking light, cabin light, glove box, rear lights exept blinkers, boot, and licence plate (make a huge visual improvement and it just looks dam good)

oil up electric windows and check cables (they tend to brake)

replace stock speakers, front 5 1/4¨ rear 4¨ (im a music freak,)

stick the computer to trip fuel consumption it will teach you to drive better, dont go over 2k rpms until warmed up (make a huge diference in FE)

happy driving

Thanks for the very thorough list! A few follow-up questions, if that's ok...

replace air inlet trump, it does make a diference on stock MPi engine: like one of those K&N products?

clean butterfly and remove MAP, Oil, CAM (both) and give them a good clean: what product do you recommend to clean them with?

use Marvel Mistery Oil with oil for the recomended amout of time, then use the thinest oil with a flush to clean the engine as much as possible before switching to the permanent oil, get the biggest oil filter (its like 15% bigger but makes a huge diference): Is the flushing for every oil change, or just the one off? and an oil filter from a 1.8 or something?

remove injectos and clean them with carb cleaner, let them sit as long as posible: shouldn't redex be cleaning the injectors, or is that a con?

do a mufflerectomy or change to fiber muffler for the backbox (for sound only): but then I'd have a very good sounding tractor... :(

remove and clean all sensor electrical contacts, reset computer and do a tune up (60): same product as cleaning butterfly?

clean the engine (makes it look good): with normal aerosol degreaser then hose down when electrical components are protected?

IMO so long as you use good quality oil and change it and the filter regularly, an oil flush may not be beneficial. If there's any evidence oil change has been neglected by previous owner, or no receipts for oil changes etc, then it may be worth it.

IMO so long as you use good quality oil and change it and the filter regularly, an oil flush may not be beneficial. If there's any evidence oil change has been neglected by previous owner, or no receipts for oil changes etc, then it may be worth it.

Thanks...previous owner kept up with the basic care, so i guess i'll leave the flushes.

Is this the sort of air inlet trump i should consider?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/K-N-57i-Induction-Kit-Skoda-Fabia-1-4-99-06-/400133164251?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d29cb8cdb

Oh, and it takes about 2 miles for the temp gauge to reach perpendicular...is that too long? Shall I change just the thermostat or the whole thermostat+sensor combo to one of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Fabia-1-0-1-4-Mpi-Thermostat-BRAND-NEW-/290583401075?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43a81ed273

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Fabia-1-4-Mpi-8-Valve-Thermostat-BRAND-NEW-/280704739126?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item415b4e6736

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Fabia-1-0-1-4-Mpi-Thermostat-Complete-BRAND-NEW-/280704742039?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item415b4e7297

Edited 24 July, 201114 yr by fsa

Thanks...previous owner kept up with the basic care, so i guess i'll leave the flushes.

Is this the sort of air inlet trump i should consider?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/K-N-57i-Induction-Kit-Skoda-Fabia-1-4-99-06-/400133164251?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d29cb8cdb

Oh, and it takes about 2 miles for the temp gauge to reach perpendicular...is that too long? Shall I change just the thermostat or the whole thermostat+sensor combo to one of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Fabia-1-0-1-4-Mpi-Thermostat-BRAND-NEW-/290583401075?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43a81ed273

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Fabia-1-4-Mpi-8-Valve-Thermostat-BRAND-NEW-/280704739126?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item415b4e6736

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Fabia-1-0-1-4-Mpi-Thermostat-Complete-BRAND-NEW-/280704742039?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item415b4e7297

Answer to those 2: An induction kit shouldn't matter too much, unless you were changing the stock engines setup (like porting/polishing the manifolds/head, port matching, and replacing the exhaust. More air in will help get a cleaner burn, and where possible if the air is protected from engine heat (i.e. cold air) the air going into the engine will be more oxygen-dense - which is a good thing. Personally, I got some alu ducting (6 quid from B&Q), and a pipercross panel filter (£35). Cut up the bottom of my inlet box to allow the ducting into it in replacement of the standard trumpet which is significantly bigger (and as it's shiny it's heat resistant) from the slam panel at the front of the car, and put in the panel filter. Significantly better at the top end. I'll chuck some piccies of it up after work.

The thermostats... Always ALWAYS replace with official. There is a mk 2 stat and housing out there, but if it was me i'd foot the cost and go to a dealer and pick the rev 2 stat and housing up from them. I got mine for £35 for stat and housing.

It does sound though like your stat is working ok - i'd just drain the system, have the stat off and make sure nothing inside is broken. If not, then you can shelve the stat replacement for another time (or when you have more cash).

Edited 25 July, 201114 yr by Chris Coates

DO an engine oil flush using Wynns engine flush (from Halfords) as this gets rid of varnish deposits etc.

Also get a new rocker cover seal ans two new top grommets from Skoda dealer £10 max!

Get engine hot-ish. then drain a bit (1lt) of the oil...then take the rocker cover off.....now pour some Wynns engine flush into a container that you can get a brush into. Now brush the Wynns all over the rocker, tappets, rods etc. Refit old gasket and rocker cover. Pour rest of Wynns into engine. Then let engins fast idle for 15mins......now drain oil and change oil filter. Remove rocker cover and fit new gasket and grommets...using paper kitchen towels soak up any black oil in rocker cover area.

Did this to a friends 8v and I have interesting before and after photos!!! And he had done regular sevicing!!!! Engine flushes need doing every second oil change!!!

DO an engine oil flush using Wynns engine flush (from Halfords) as this gets rid of varnish deposits etc.

Also get a new rocker cover seal ans two new top grommets from Skoda dealer £10 max!

Get engine hot-ish. then drain a bit (1lt) of the oil...then take the rocker cover off.....now pour some Wynns engine flush into a container that you can get a brush into. Now brush the Wynns all over the rocker, tappets, rods etc. Refit old gasket and rocker cover. Pour rest of Wynns into engine. Then let engins fast idle for 15mins......now drain oil and change oil filter. Remove rocker cover and fit new gasket and grommets...using paper kitchen towels soak up any black oil in rocker cover area.

Did this to a friends 8v and I have interesting before and after photos!!! And he had done regular sevicing!!!! Engine flushes need doing every second oil change!!!

I'd be interested to see some piccies of that

I'd be interested to see some piccies of that

Will post them up later in this thread, so keep watching!!!!

Will post them up later in this thread, so keep watching!!!!

Awesome.

I'll be posting up a piccy of my ghetto-ish air intake solution too

Awesome.

I'll be posting up a piccy of my ghetto-ish air intake solution too

Just done a post re Wynns with the picts!!

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/208388-why-you-should-use-wynns-engine-flush/#entry2463125

This is my air intake that I made using Green Cotton individual components!

Sort of a follow up thread to my earlier one about washing and waxing... What regular maintenance do people generally do? I've read the recommended things in the skoda and haynes manual, but was wondering if there was a different consensus? For example, I know it doesn't apply to my engine, but I've read threads saying timing belt should be changed at 40k instead of the recommended 60k....

To be frank, I was going to use this car as a cheap run around till I have some NCB under my belt and upgrade...but I'm starting to get quite fond of Furby and would like to keep him around...hence willing to give a bit of TLC.

I had a 60k service done a few weeks ago where the following were changed: oil, oil filter, air filter, pollen filter & spark plugs. Garage told me to do another oil change in another 10k....I was considering changing the oil and air filters myself and leaving the messy oil for the garage (to keep costs down). Previous owner put new tyres on before selling and had them balanced. They put a new JVC ICE system too.

I'd rather spend money on making it run better than modding it like a boy racer. So, any other parts I should consider changing/upgrading to keep it running smoothly and maybe gaining a few mpg? (I've accepted the 8v is a fuel guzzler :/ )

You're doing it right mate, keep it running sweet.

Awesome.

I'll be posting up a piccy of my ghetto-ish air intake solution too

As promised - po' boys cold air induction:

It works very well. And as the ducting cost me 6 quid and the pipercross panel filter cost me 35 quid... A hell of a lot cheaper than an induction kit.

As promised - po' boys cold air induction:

It works very well. And as the ducting cost me 6 quid and the pipercross panel filter cost me 35 quid... A hell of a lot cheaper than an induction kit.

That looks better than the manufactured induction kit! If you haven't patented it, I would be grateful to find out how exactly you put it together. What diameter aluminium duct? How did you cut the hole in the inlet box? how does the duct fit into the pipercross panel?

In what way has performance improved for you?

It does sound though like your stat is working ok - i'd just drain the system, have the stat off and make sure nothing inside is broken. If not, then you can shelve the stat replacement for another time (or when you have more cash).

What usually breaks in the thermostat? The outer casing or a component inside? Just want to be sure I know what to look out for when I take it out...

DO an engine oil flush using Wynns engine flush (from Halfords) as this gets rid of varnish deposits etc.

Also get a new rocker cover seal ans two new top grommets from Skoda dealer £10 max!

Get engine hot-ish. then drain a bit (1lt) of the oil...then take the rocker cover off.....now pour some Wynns engine flush into a container that you can get a brush into. Now brush the Wynns all over the rocker, tappets, rods etc. Refit old gasket and rocker cover. Pour rest of Wynns into engine. Then let engins fast idle for 15mins......now drain oil and change oil filter. Remove rocker cover and fit new gasket and grommets...using paper kitchen towels soak up any black oil in rocker cover area.

Did this to a friends 8v and I have interesting before and after photos!!! And he had done regular sevicing!!!! Engine flushes need doing every second oil change!!!

Thank you very much for the procedure! Photos are astonishing. Will definitely try this at my next oil change. Are online Skoda dealers cheaper than local ones? It's only Vindis in Cambridge that's near to me.....(for the rocker cover seal and grommets).

This is my air intake that I made using Green Cotton individual components!

How much did your custom set up cost you? It seems to be bigger than Chris'...

replace air inlet trump, it does make a diference on stock MPi engine: like one of those K&N products?

clean butterfly and remove MAP, Oil, CAM (both) and give them a good clean: what product do you recommend to clean them with?

use Marvel Mistery Oil with oil for the recomended amout of time, then use the thinest oil with a flush to clean the engine as much as possible before switching to the permanent oil, get the biggest oil filter (its like 15% bigger but makes a huge diference): Is the flushing for every oil change, or just the one off? and an oil filter from a 1.8 or something?

remove injectos and clean them with carb cleaner, let them sit as long as posible: shouldn't redex be cleaning the injectors, or is that a con?

do a mufflerectomy or change to fiber muffler for the backbox (for sound only): but then I'd have a very good sounding tractor... :(

remove and clean all sensor electrical contacts, reset computer and do a tune up (60): same product as cleaning butterfly?

clean the engine (makes it look good): with normal aerosol degreaser then hose down when electrical components are protected?

1. No, like the trumped replacement from Ibiza (i´ve seen a post here) but i basically just removed the old one and fitted some tubbing in tis place though i didn t cut out the bottom side of the filter box just found some plastic tubing and worked to the shape of the opening and then fitted that to a home made snorkle for the opening. but it does feel a hole lot better, not just on the top side but under load or acceleration.

2. just for the first off, but if it feels old it might do some good, in my case, the car was stranded for 8 month and the previous owner did do oil changes as instructed or put some tipe of additive cus i did seee a huge amount of gunk, the mild flushing dint help much so i put 1/2 a liter of Marvel and ran for 1k then drained, put 1liter of very light oil and 2 liters of flush (the one thats totally transparent) and let it ran for 30min, i was amazed to see the oil come out dark as night. but it did make the engine feel lighter.

3. injectos can be clean with and solvent that can remove varnish and is thin enought to sip into the smaller orifice, bith i dont recomend thinner asi ti will destry rubber.

4. not realy, i´m actualy very tempted to use a fiberglass back box and a lot of people here just put a straight pipe, (but i dont think is my kind of thing)

5. electronic cleaning agent. make sure the contacts are clean as not to produce more ohms or miss contact that would fool the computer.

6. je to be honest, i used son AB degreaser and hosed it down with a garden hose, the first time i took it to a car wash and they used a degreaser with detergent and compressed steam (and to finish they used some silicones spray to make the black look good)

i´ll try to upload before and after

Edited 26 July, 201114 yr by Cepheuz

How much did your custom set up cost you? It seems to be bigger than Chris'...

Its a 16v, different engine so the filter is routed and positioned differently.

Mine works just fine

Its a 16v, different engine so the filter is routed and positioned differently.

Mine works just fine

Hehehe, mine's bigger than yours

But yeah, helping the engine to breathe properly (as it's asthmatic at stock) is pretty important.

Did anyone else notice the original trumpet's flap wasn't working? I had it in the sink last night to warm the thermostat up and it just wouldn't open. Pretty poor really. No wonder I felt like the car didn't have anything on a hot day!

How much did your custom set up cost you? It seems to be bigger than Chris'...

Yeah but as tech1e says it's a 16v engine (100bhp.. )......cost me about £220 in parts inc brackets, filter, ducting adaptors etc....but still cheaper and a much better fit than an of the shelf kit which is for this engine!!!

P.S. mine is a fully sealed cold air induction kit (C.A.I)...Tech1es is not, so my filter is less exposed to engine bay crap and hot air!!!

PPS .....the parts for the 8v (grommets and gasket) were bought from my local Skoda dealers, I went in and ordered them and picked them up a couple of days later (£10 max)

What usually breaks in the thermostat? The outer casing or a component inside? Just want to be sure I know what to look out for when I take it out...

There's two plastic clips which hold the metal bracket that keeps the thermostat spring in place. These clips are what breaks. It's easy to find a broken thermostat, with engine cold remove temp sender and stick your finger in - if the thermostat moves everywhere it's broken.

Did anyone else notice the original trumpet's flap wasn't working? I had it in the sink last night to warm the thermostat up and it just wouldn't open. Pretty poor really. No wonder I felt like the car didn't have anything on a hot day!

Interesting, will have to examine mine. Seems like the thing can be more an hindrance than a benefit if when it fails it forces air intake from the exhaust manifold. Not sure that taking heat from the exhaust manifold brings much benefit, even in the coldest of UK winters. Might do in colder climates though. Would probably be a big MPG killer if it fails too. I think it's only there for Carburetor icing?

There's two plastic clips which hold the metal bracket that keeps the thermostat spring in place. These clips are what breaks. It's easy to find a broken thermostat, with engine cold remove temp sender and stick your finger in - if the thermostat moves everywhere it's broken.

Interesting, will have to examine mine. Seems like the thing can be more an hindrance than a benefit if when it fails it forces air intake from the exhaust manifold. Not sure that taking heat from the exhaust manifold brings much benefit, even in the coldest of UK winters. Might do in colder climates though. Would probably be a big MPG killer if it fails too. I think it's only there for Carburetor icing?

I think so. Mine just wouldn't open at all. Rubbish really...

Since installing the pipe (which was very easy to do - only required access to a dremel to cut the hole where the original intake went into, and then widening/bending the pipe once inside the hole and screwing into place on both ends) i've noticed much better response from the car.

Here's a pic for an idea of where the pipe went. 100mm ducting, £6 from B&Q for a metres worth - didn't need anywhere near that amount so got some spare just in case!

Also - whilst I had the airbox off, I noticed:

Yes. That is oil.

Comes from the rocker cover breather (recirc) that goes back into the intake manifold. Bad.

So I made a crankcase breather can and sealed the hole up on the manifold intake. No more bad oil vapour gumming up my throttle body!

I've yet to have the manifold off to clean it up - but i'm betting it'll not be a pretty sight if oil has been going through it for the last 11 years...

...I'll get some piccies when I do a clean up to show you the damage allowing oil back into the air intake does over time

Edited 26 July, 201114 yr by Chris Coates

Its a 16v, different engine so the filter is routed and positioned differently.

Mine works just fine

Where's your airbox? Shouldnt it be behind the battery on an 8v? Or have you done something really funky?

I think so. Mine just wouldn't open at all. Rubbish really...

Since installing the pipe (which was very easy to do - only required access to a dremel to cut the hole where the original intake went into, and then widening/bending the pipe once inside the hole and screwing into place on both ends) i've noticed much better response from the car.

Here's a pic for an idea of where the pipe went. 100mm ducting, £6 from B&Q for a metres worth - didn't need anywhere near that amount so got some spare just in case!

So, remove airbox, cut hole, attach pipe to airbox...... The front end of the intake isnt attached to anything on the air inlet on mine, its just suspended there...what should I secure the pipe to?

And does the pipercross filter just go in where the standard filter does?