Where's your airbox? Shouldnt it be behind the battery on an 8v? Or have you done something really funky?

With the induction filter fixed using a short hose and hose clips, there's no need for an air box. Ducting appears to be used to direct cold air flow from the front to direct it over the induction filter.

With the induction filter fixed using a short hose and hose clips, there's no need for an air box. Ducting appears to be used to direct cold air flow from the front to direct it over the induction filter.

So tech1e has an induction filter with the ducting bringing cold air over it (although not completely because it's exposed to the engine), whereas chris has put a pipercross panel filter in his airbox with ducting going into it and fabdavrav has gone the extra mile and enclosed the induction filter?

Too many choices! Is it the 57i from K&N?

On another note, do all you pros discard of that annoying plastic engine cover? Can't see all that ducting squeezing underneath it...

Edited 31 July, 201114 yr by fsa

change light bulbs with led (parking light, cabin light, glove box, rear lights exept blinkers, boot, and licence plate (make a huge visual improvement and it just looks dam good)

So apart from rear blinkers, I can 'legally' change all exterior lights to led? Just browsing through www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk

Can I not just change the bulbs in the boot, headunit and doors instead of buying the kits

http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/FABIA/Fabia-I-MEGA-powered-LED-dome-light-for-your-trunk

http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/FABIA/Fabia-I-MEGA-POWER-LED-door-safety-light

http://www.superskoda.com/skoda/fabia/skoda-fabia-i-interior-led-dome-light

Edited 1 August, 201114 yr by fsa

So, remove airbox, cut hole, attach pipe to airbox...... The front end of the intake isnt attached to anything on the air inlet on mine, its just suspended there...what should I secure the pipe to?

And does the pipercross filter just go in where the standard filter does?

I secured the front of the pipe to the slam panel with a strategically-placed screw (which you can see in the pic)

And the pipercross filter just goes in the box. drop-in replacement for the standard filter.

I secured the front of the pipe to the slam panel with a strategically-placed screw (which you can see in the pic)

And the pipercross filter just goes in the box. drop-in replacement for the standard filter.

Loving the strategically placed screw!

Any performance benefits of having an induction filter as opposed to a panel one? I know the 8v is a measley engine, so am not expecting miracles...but would be worthwhile knowing before I start shopping...

Also, these induction 'kits' just seem to have some ducting, o-rings and zip ties thrown in with the cone filter........could i not just buy any cone filter and get the other parts from a DIY store? You can probably guess I'm trying to be cheap!

Or any opinions on this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-FABIA-OCTAVIA-AIR-FILTER-INDUCTION-KIT-/150637617151?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2312b39fff

Edited 1 August, 201114 yr by fsa

Loving the strategically placed screw!

Any performance benefits of having an induction filter as opposed to a panel one? I know the 8v is a measley engine, so am not expecting miracles...but would be worthwhile knowing before I start shopping...

Also, these induction 'kits' just seem to have some ducting, o-rings and zip ties thrown in with the cone filter........could i not just buy any cone filter and get the other parts from a DIY store? You can probably guess I'm trying to be cheap!

Or any opinions on this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-FABIA-OCTAVIA-AIR-FILTER-INDUCTION-KIT-/150637617151?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2312b39fff

Personally, ultra-high cfm intakes are undone by the intake manifold design, which is pants. Which then also makes induction filters a bit useless to me. This is why I went for a higher flow standard filter and a pipe as opposed to spending a lot of money on something that is functionally redundant.

In my opinion the throttle response is better with just the pipe on - What i've also noticed is that I can now drive my car 2 ways - The foot-down, bwarp method which can be fun now and again, and the non-foot down quieter more economical method. The engine is very vocal as to whether i've got my foot down or not now - which results in better economy as i'm more aware of when i'm giving it the beans.

There is a side effect to this - the missus is now also more aware of when i've got my foot down so i'm getting told off more hahahaha!

Does anyone have the part numbers for the mk2 thermostat and housing and the rocker cover seal and two top grommets?

Going to be doing a few things off this list myself at the weekend weather permitting!

Cheers

Would someone also be able to give me a part number for an oil filler cap that fits directly onto the engine after removing the engine cover?

Cheers

Would someone also be able to give me a part number for an oil filler cap that fits directly onto the engine after removing the engine cover?

Cheers

You should find it attatched to the underneath of the big plastic engine cover if you turn it over!!!!

Edited 6 August, 201114 yr by fabdavrav

Cheers, didn't see it when i took the cover off!

Personally, ultra-high cfm intakes are undone by the intake manifold design, which is pants. Which then also makes induction filters a bit useless to me. This is why I went for a higher flow standard filter and a pipe as opposed to spending a lot of money on something that is functionally redundant.

That's what I was worried about....spending on something which can't be used to its fullest potential because of another lowest common denominator.

Bought a dremel and all the other bits for this mod...but yet another question before I proceed. What did you do with your hot air intake?(as discussed here http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/93286-skoda-fabia-1-4-mpi-8v-classic-egr/page__st__20)

If I remove it, won't it affect starting up in those cold days? On another note, why is there a hot air intake if one is trying to create a cold, dense, O2-rich for the intake?

Edited 10 August, 201114 yr by fsa

What did you do with your hot air intake?(as discussed here http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/93286-skoda-fabia-1-4-mpi-8v-classic-egr/page__st__20)

If I remove it, won't it affect starting up in those cold days? On another note, why is there a hot air intake if one is trying to create a cold, dense, O2-rich for the intake?

In winter the hot air intake is to help the engine until the engine warms up as the air is too cold........on my 16v I made a stainless two piece blanking plate for the slot in the slam panel which only lets about 1/4 of the cold air in...this I fit in the depths of winter....done this for the past 5 winters and all ok!! Will try to get a pic up sometime if you want!

In winter the hot air intake is to help the engine until the engine warms up as the air is too cold........on my 16v I made a stainless two piece blanking plate for the slot in the slam panel which only lets about 1/4 of the cold air in...this I fit in the depths of winter....done this for the past 5 winters and all ok!! Will try to get a pic up sometime if you want!

Thanks for your reply!

So in the depths of winter you simply limit the cold air coming in, instead of refitting the hot air intake to the ducting (somehow...) Can the hot air intake simply be removed, or should it be rerouted to elsewhere?

A photo would be absolutely fantastic....no hurry!

Thanks for your reply!

So in the depths of winter you simply limit the cold air coming in, instead of refitting the hot air intake to the ducting (somehow...) Can the hot air intake simply be removed, or should it be rerouted to elsewhere?

A photo would be absolutely fantastic....no hurry!

Look at this photo......my CAI finishes near to the slam panel hole....so when the slam panel hole is blocked it just takes air from the engine bay....also my hot air outlet from the sheild above the exhaust manifold I totally blocked using some heat resistant sticky alu foil and a worm drive hose clamp

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/207916-recommended-engine-maintenance-upgrades/page__view__findpost__p__2463128

Look at this photo......my CAI finishes near to the slam panel hole....so when the slam panel hole is blocked it just takes air from the engine bay....also my hot air outlet from the sheild above the exhaust manifold I totally blocked using some heat resistant sticky alu foil and a worm drive hose clamp

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/207916-recommended-engine-maintenance-upgrades/page__view__findpost__p__2463128

Oh I see! The CAI should be just short of the slam panel hole....i was thinking that blocking the hole would suffocate the engine instead. How cold does it get before you decide to fit your blocking panels?

Many thanks for your advice!

Oh I see! The CAI should be just short of the slam panel hole....i was thinking that blocking the hole would suffocate the engine instead. How cold does it get before you decide to fit your blocking panels?

Many thanks for your advice!

Mine is at 70deg to the slam panel as you will see....so it gets a direct blast thro' from the slam panel hole.....I had thought about connecting it directly...but then all the insects and carp that blow tho the slam panel hole would then end up in the CAI....this is why I set it back a bit from the slam panel....please remember that mine is a 16v engine so slightly different layout!

I tend to fit my blanking plates to the slam panel when I see +0deg on my temp sensor (I have Elegance spec)...so usually a couple of weeks after I fit my winter tyres!

Mine is at 70deg to the slam panel as you will see....so it gets a direct blast thro' from the slam panel hole.....I had thought about connecting it directly...but then all the insects and carp that blow tho the slam panel hole would then end up in the CAI....this is why I set it back a bit from the slam panel....please remember that mine is a 16v engine so slightly different layout!

I tend to fit my blanking plates to the slam panel when I see +0deg on my temp sensor (I have Elegance spec)...so usually a couple of weeks after I fit my winter tyres!

Good point well made. However...

Unless you have something thermally insulated carrying your air to your filter there's always going to be a certain amount of heat soak to the pipe that will warm the air up sufficiently enough after start up to allow to run without any issues.

Good point well made. However...

Unless you have something thermally insulated carrying your air to your filter there's always going to be a certain amount of heat soak to the pipe that will warm the air up sufficiently enough after start up to allow to run without any issues.

This is why I fitted black pipework to the filter (shiny alu from filter to valve).......you could fit double linned alu cloth pipework which would fully insulate against heatsoak. Last two winters I was seeing temps of -18deg on my car...even after driving for 20mins...slowly!...which is why the blanking plates worked very well...the plates only block off about 2/3 to 3/4 of the air thro the slam panel!

This is why I fitted black pipework to the filter (shiny alu from filter to valve).......you could fit double linned alu cloth pipework which would fully insulate against heatsoak. Last two winters I was seeing temps of -18deg on my car...even after driving for 20mins...slowly!...which is why the blanking plates worked very well...the plates only block off about 2/3 to 3/4 of the air thro the slam panel!

Nice work

When you have a chance, would you mind uploading a close up of your slam panel closing mechanism?

Cheaper alternative to thermally insulated ducting: run a 125mm ducting over the 100mm ducting (cheap hydroponics stuff)

When you have a chance, would you mind uploading a close up of your slam panel closing mechanism?

What....just the lock mech for the bonnet???.....got a problem with the mech????

What....just the lock mech for the bonnet???.....got a problem with the mech????

No no no, of how you attach your two little panels come winter-time. I was just wondering if it's something sophisticated or just screwed onto the slam panel.

No no no, of how you attach your two little panels come winter-time. I was just wondering if it's something sophisticated or just screwed onto the slam panel.

Ok will do over the weekend....will post in this thread!

Ok will do over the weekend....will post in this thread!

Thank you very much, much appreciated. Anytime before the winter is fine...whenever you have a moment.

Gonna hijack this thread a little as it's sort of relevant. My mpi has done 120k now and is due an oil change. What grade oil are people using with this engine? I'm thinking 10w-40 or 15w-40? Also, I think some oil is seeping out through the rocker cover gasket as there seems to be some relatively fresh oil around the seal. The engine is pretty filthy in general though so it may just be sludge that is becoming thinner when the engine gets hot. I'll change the gasket to be on the safe side though even though the engine doesn't seem to burn much oil at all really.Anyway, oil is the main question