Hi guys, I now have a nice shiny pair of 312mm VRS disks, calliper carriers and Ferodo DS2500 pads for the car and was hoping to get them fitted tomorrow afternoon. I have a couple of questions relating to this before I get started...

1) I'm guessing/hoping that the current brake lines are suitable and don't need changing? I'm presuming I can simply keep the current 288mm setup callipers connected to the current brake lines and that they will comfortably reach to their new '312mm' position?

2) If I'm changing out the current pads (that have done 15,000 miles) for the new ones, will I need any sort of piston wind back tool or similar? I'm hoping that I can get the pads swapped with no need for a tool but id rather be properly prepared and also hear from people that have done this task before.

Any other advice or help in doing this upgrade would be gratefully received. Thanks in advance.

Where did you get the caliper carriers from? Couple of times I've found the brakes lacking and need more stopping power.

Not a yeti but when I changed pads and discs on my old Octavia vrs I used garden wire to hang the calipers off the suspension so the brake line wasn't strained. When pushing the pistons back I used a one man bleed kit and opened the bleed nipple when pushing the pistons back in (no wind back tool needed on the Octavia front, I assume the same for the Yeti?). Don't know if necessary but I didn't want to upset rubber seals and the like. When changing the discs I had to use a breaker bar to get the caliper carrier bolts undone, they were rather tight. Oh and a rubber mallet to free off the old discs.

Look forward to hearing how the upgrade goes, seriously considering it myself.

Where did you get the caliper carriers from? Couple of times I've found the brakes lacking and need more stopping power.

Not a yeti but when I changed pads and discs on my old Octavia vrs I used garden wire to hang the calipers off the suspension so the brake line wasn't strained. When pushing the pistons back I used a one man bleed kit and opened the bleed nipple when pushing the pistons back in (no wind back tool needed on the Octavia front, I assume the same for the Yeti?). Don't know if necessary but I didn't want to upset rubber seals and the like. When changing the discs I had to use a breaker bar to get the caliper carrier bolts undone, they were rather tight. Oh and a rubber mallet to free off the old discs.

Look forward to hearing how the upgrade goes, seriously considering it myself.

Thanks very much for the information. :-) Using your method of swapping pads - did any air get into the brake system? That's my main worry I guess only having access to the usual diy tools in the garage.

The carriers and the disks came from the local dealer - they are simply Octavia VRS mk2 parts. The DS2500's were bought from JKM.

Parts are also as used on the CR170 Yeti.

Well worth doing the upgrade if you have a CR140 or 1.8TSI and like to drive in a spirited fashion.

Thanks very much for the information. :-) Using your method of swapping pads - did any air get into the brake system? That's my main worry I guess only having access to the usual diy tools in the garage.

The carriers and the disks came from the local dealer - they are simply Octavia VRS mk2 parts. The DS2500's were bought from JKM.

No air got in the system. To check once I had reassembled everything, apart from putting wheel on, I cracked open the nipple with the one man bleed kit contected and pushed the brake pedal down a tad. Alternatively get someone else to push the pedal whilst you open/close the nipple. Have used the one man kit on my kit car and had no problems with air getting in.

A one mad bleed kit is pretty cheap, it's just a bottle with a bit of pipe with a slit in it so fluid goes out but air cant get in.

Parts are also as used on the CR170 Yeti.

Well worth doing the upgrade if you have a CR140 or 1.8TSI and like to drive in a spirited fashion.

Ta, there's a couple of roundabouts in a row on the dual carriageway near where I work, having been used to the vrs the 1.8 brakes have felt lacking. Not quite had a "oh sh**" moment but I was certainly pushing the pedal harder than I would have expected.

Resurrecting this topic, as I am thinking of taking the first step in upgrading the brakes on my SM. Not sure if I will go the full 312mm way - I might wait until the disks currently on the car need replacing - but I am pondering changing to DOT 5.1 fluid, braided lines and better pads.

Yeti_Man and a few others have been very supportive of the DS2500 pads, but reading up on the local forums it seems that many people have reported them to be very noisy, with several complaints for excessive squealing in everyday use. I was wondering whether anyone who has fitted them has had similar experiences to share.

Resurrecting this topic, as I am thinking of taking the first step in upgrading the brakes on my SM. Not sure if I will go the full 312mm way - I might wait until the disks currently on the car need replacing - but I am pondering changing to DOT 5.1 fluid, braided lines and better pads.

Yeti_Man and a few others have been very supportive of the DS2500 pads, but reading up on the local forums it seems that many people have reported them to be very noisy, with several complaints for excessive squealing in everyday use. I was wondering whether anyone who has fitted them has had similar experiences to share.

I've used DS2500s On several cars including, currently, my Yeti and not had an issue with noise / squealing.

I do though make sure I use them properly and to their full capacity to keep them clean. If you drive gently with light pressure there is the opportunity for the build up of brake dust and glazing of the disks, which will likely cause squealing.

Hope this helps.

Guy

Sent from my Xperia S using TapaTalk 4 Pro

DS2500 get another vote here. Excellent pad, best I've used.

For fluid I wouldn't look at 5.1 spec but Motul RBF600 or Tarox RoadRace. Both exceed 5.1 wet and dry boiling point specs and without the issue of water absorption that occurs with 5.1, leading to more regular fluid changes being required.

Thanks a lot for your input. From what I've read elsewhere on Briskoda, it looks like the bedding-in process is quite important for the DS2500, which may help avoid squealing.

I had read about the Motul RBF600 but still thought that a 5.1 fluid would have been better. Thanks for clearing that up!

While we're on the subject of brake upgrades, I have been looking for braided brake lines for the Yeti but have not been able to find Yeti-compatible ones anywhere. I even emailed HEL who had no idea about which brake lines from their range would be compatible with the Yeti. Does anyone happen to know which other VAG model uses the same brake lines as the Yeti 1.8?

I would have thought the Octy2 HEL model would be suitable but obviously you'd need to check lengths etc. I have those on my Octy. Maybe see if you can find some info on the Yeti OEM lines and compare lengths with the HEL ones for the Octy2?

There's also a good article written some years ago on the Lotus Owners Club re brake running in which I've always followed and its not failed me yet! That could also be done on a setup that's already got some mileage on it. I can dig that out for you if its of interest.

Cheers,

Steve

My DS2500 pads squeal if I don't do any hard braking for a while.

DS2500's suck, so does Ferodo customer service

 

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/301968-ferodo-ds2500s-performance-pad-my-arse/

 

Whatever the standard OEM pad is in my 170 Yeti is really good, also they wear well with 108,000 miles on them so far, discs are also original so pads aren't too aggressive on the discs 

My DS2500 pads squeal if I don't do any hard braking for a while.

The Carbotechs I had were the same, they needed using properly.

For fluid I wouldn't look at 5.1 spec but Motul RBF600 or Tarox RoadRace. Both exceed 5.1 wet and dry boiling point specs and without the issue of water absorption that occurs with 5.1, leading to more regular fluid changes being required.

I thought DOT 5 was the silicone-based spec that led to issues with water collecting in calipers etc as it doesn't mix with the fluid, whereas DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 are the mineral based hygroscopic fluids that absorb water throughout the fluid.

 

Or maybe is there something else different about 5.1 vs 3 & 4?

The Carbotechs I had were the same, they needed using properly.

I assume you mean bedding in?  This was done over a 150-200 miles before we did a track day, after all these are allegedly performance pads......

 My Yellow stuff never had this problem, so I wonder..

No I meant that if you didn't give them some proper (ab)use on a regular basis, they'd squeal. Lots. (But to be fair, the Carbotech does state they will be noisy and therefore XP10s aren't recommended for road use !).

But with slight bit of warmth, they were amazing.

I did the proper bedding in procedure. 

 

Got Yellows in my Focus now, not as good as the Carbotechs, but a lot cheaper and they don't create loads of black dust !