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Clutch Issue


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As some will know I replaced my clutch, dual mass fly wheel,and slave cyclinder. Before i did this the clutch was slipping and the clutch pedal would move on its own down ward when i pressed the throttle then return up when i lifted off the power about an inch. now since the clutch has been done i have also replaced the master cyclinder behind the clutch pedal and rebled the system but the new problem is the clutch is not fully disengaugeing and the pedal is still moveing on its own but both these issues are intermitent? there is no clutch slip but sometimes when its in 1st or reverse it is as if i am holding the car on the biteing point and it is very hard to get the car OUT of gear if not moveing ? im stumped by this now as everything in the clutch system is new and it has been bled many times i thought it could have been the master cyclinder so i replaced that but that hasnt changed anything. Does it need bleeding under pressure? as my only conclusion is that it is a fluid issue as it is intermitent and the pedal moveing thing was happening proir to the work been done.

every one i ask is lost on this problem has anyone any suggestions as where going to have another look later today.

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Could be air trapped in the swirl chamber. Funny shaped device on the clutch hydraulic feed line close to the bulkhead.

whats best way to clear this bleeding? does it needing doing under pressure?

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whats best way to clear this bleeding? does it needing doing under pressure?

Connect the brake filling and bleeding device

-ROMESS S15-.

– Insert the bleeder hose -A- on the slave cylinder -arrow-

and open the bleeder valve.

– Activate system with a pressure of 2 bar.

– Allow approx. 100 cm3 of brake fluid to flow out until

no more air bubbles are visible.

– Shut the bleeder valve.

– Activate pedal forcefully from stop to stop between 10

and 15 times.

– Open the bleeder valve.

– Again allow approx. 100 cm3 brake fluid to flow out.

– Shut the bleeder valve.

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