Anything I should be wary of when attempting to replace the above? Bought it from Vindis for 65. 6q0201797b......tiny bit suspicious if its the right part as the thing under the driver's side rear wheel arch was shorter and white....this is a long black canister... :wonder:

They did look for it with my reg no....

The thing under the drivers side rear wheel arch is the fuel filter.

Oops. Found the relevant pages in Haynes, which talks about removing the rear driver's side wheel and arch? Will look into it some more and get it done tomorrow.

Hold on - are we talking just in front of the rear arch here? or actually inside the rear arch...?

Haynes says: jack car, remove right hand rear wheel and wheel arch liner.........

Yep it's just behind the arch liner, next to the filler neck, easy to change.

If yours has logged a fault with it make sure your not over filling the fuel tank or pressing the button inside the neck to release the air in the expansion tank to get a bit more in.

The arch liner is easy enough to remove?

I did used to overfill...up to the second click at the pump, but never by releasing the air in the expansion tank.

Overfilling will kill the canister and probably the N80 valve also.

T25 torx screws is all the bolts the liner in.

Overfilling will kill the canister and probably the N80 valve also.

T25 torx screws is all the bolts the liner in.

Would that purge valve come as a separate error code on vagcom?

No, not always. Just an evap canister fault.

Are you sure it's T25?

I could have swore I used a T30 the other day to remove the bottom screw on the wheel liner arch for easier access to the rear axle bolt...

...Could be wrong tho

I'll have a nosey around with it tomorrow....trying to get all my tinkering about done before term starts....won't have any time for that stuff until next summer.

Rear doors are now sealed....front ones left to do, but it was the rear ones that made the biggest puddles. Yet to change the thermostat housing and charcoal canister and hope it solves the lambda problems *fingers crossed*. Hard wire the TomTom if time allows.....

Oh, is tap water ok to use to flush the radiator before finally topping up with the proper G12 stuff? Might as well while its drained to fit the new housing...

Edited 24 September, 201114 yr by fsa

Yeah should be fine.

I actually went a bit further than that and broke up some dishwasher cleaner and put it in some water and warmed it up and let it run through for a while - then rinsed it out again before filling up. Worked a treat!

If it's good enough for a dishwasher/washing machine (calgon adverts anyone?) then it's surely good enough for a water carrying cooling system made of mostly the same materials

Edited 24 September, 201114 yr by Chris Coates

Ok, so a bit of an issue with the charcoal canister. The one I was sold is supposed to be the new version of the one already fitted...previous incarnation is now discontinued. The two nozzles in the new one are the same length, whereas in the old one one was shorter. SO, the plug which used to go over the shorter nozzle in the old one doesn't click in place in the new one.

Popped back to the dealers who looked it all up and said my best option is to splurge another £40 for a new pipe with plug which is compatible with the new, longer nozzle.

Did anyone else face this? Shall I 'go to town' with my dremel and just shorten it? I've left it on the car for now...it fits on snugly, but doesn't give that satisfying click...