Hi folks here is a DIY thread on replacing Rear axle bushes. (with links to pics now fixed)

It is not hugely technical job but you need patience and plan for not having car done in a day. I think I could probably do the Job in 4 hours now providing no unplanned issues arise. And with this pics and instructions you should do it quicker than I did on my first attempt which was approx 7 hours. Although this did include taking pics and fussing around with other area's to sort whilst car up in the air.

Main Tools needed.

Sockets and spanners:
14mm (Whiteline RARB bolts/nuts if one is fitted)
16mm (rear shock lower bolts/nuts need replacing)
18mm (axle bush bolts/nuts),
19mm (home made bush installation tool)
Drill and Drill bits
Grease
WD40
Hacksaw
Home made Bush installation tool.

Trust me you need it or get the laser or Sealey item for VW.

Like this one :
http://cgi.ebay.co.u...atchlink:top:en

I could not justify the cost for one time use so made one up out of a long bolt couple of nuts from B&Q and some thick metal brackets from Wickes all costing approx £8

Parts Used

Rear axle Bushes 6Q0 501 541E Skoda Fabia VRS Bush
Euro Car parts p/n 610780015 £24.86


Bolts and nuts Bush Bolt – N10409903 (x2)
Bush nut – N10106402 (x2)
Lower shock Bolt – N90517304 (x2)
Lower shock nut – N10286110 £11.70

I went with the Fabia VRS bush, as believe it or not is stronger than the Octy VRS one and more solid design

Here is a pic of the 2 side by side. Fabia then Octy



Here is a link to the VW site for more info and some alternative bushes to consider like the Leon Cupra R one although is very similar to the Fabia VRS one.

http://uk-mkivs.net/...spx?PageIndex=2

So here Goes.

The route I took was to jack car up and support both sides on axle stands (my axle stands have groove's in for the sills so could support on the still no worries)


I think I followed the manual to a certain extent but I did one side at a time, so I did not completely remove beam,

Thought I would show just how low the front end is with the back end jacked up. (Like a hover)



Here is the axle bush and bolt shown that will be removed



Support the beam on the side you are working on with a trolley jack

Remove the lower shock bolt/nut (these will be replaced with p/n listed above) note I have a Whiteline RARB so that box bracket needs to be removed also.






Now I unclipped Rear handbrake cable from it’s position on the beam.
I then unclipped the metal brake line that is fitted into plastic clips along the Rear beam to brake caliper, and then I prized off the brake line seating clip on the bracket that sits on the front of the beam, and used a hacksaw to carefully cut a slit through the bracket and bent it outwards slightly to allow the metal brake pipe to be moved out of the bracket so not to be strained when beam is lowered. This method stops the need to re bleed system.
Pic shown of bracket.



With the lower shock bolts removed then undid the axle bush bolt/nut and removed them



I lowered one side of beam on trolley jack which gives enough room to get to the bush. (checking any restrictions like brake lines were not being strained)

Pic shows the metal brake line out of it’s clips and the axle bush exposed



Drill out the rubber section in the old bush. I found gradually drilling these out and then whacking out the centre piece the best way after trying other options.





Most of the VRS bushes are plastic sleeved so once the centre bit is out you can wedge a flat screwdriver between the sleeve and axle lip and tap it through this will collapse the sleeve and make it easier to knock out



Old section of bush and sleeve removed



Bush housing aperture cleaned up and greased ready for new bush.



DIY install tool that is now needed



The new bush ( I used a Fabia VRS one which is the same style as the LCR and ICR) they are different part number and prices. As the golf forums are all using the fabia VRS ones I went with this. The standard Octy VRS bush is the same as the Golf ones that I checked out and there is a obvious difference between them and the Fabia ,LCR and ICR Bush. You can follow the link post above to see the options and description on the available bushes.

Also in page 4 of that link below it is CRUCIAL that you fit the bushes in the correct way. From inside of the beam outwards and the correct orientation of the bush inside the beam aperture.

see here:

http://uk-mkivs.net/...spx?PageIndex=4

The bushes were not going to go in without that DIY tool not in a million years. It is crucial to get the bush in centrally which took me a few goes of tightening it , undoing it and tapping it central and then once central the bush started to wind in. Used lots of grease to line the axle bush aperture and then lots of WD40 on the bush going in. Then when i reached the end on the DIY tool ( approx 30mm ) hammered home the rest of the bush to close the gap

Pic show the bush and install tool set and ready to tighten up to wind bush into slot



bush slowly going in



Fully home



Note the correct orientation of the bush(key slots) in the axle



Beam repositioned and new Bolt/nut fitted. (torque 33lbs, then turned further90’)



Refit Lower shock with new bolt/nut( torque 44lbs although I ended up a little less as thought bolt would snap, checked and correct to manual, but seems too high to me?)

Refit the brake lines to there position and hand brake cables and job done.

Whilst car was in the air, the Rear springs, RARB and shock's got a good clean and the Rear beam a scrape and waxoyl.

Well was the hard work worth it

I should say, as the car feels more planted and having had a few brisk runs no more banging and loose feel.

Hope this helps folks

A good write up :)

I personally would only tighten the lower damper bolt and axle bolts once the car is on the ground as doing them in the air you're preloading the rubber in the bushes and shortening there life after tightening and then lowering.

possibly, but considering i don't have access to a 4 poster and the car is way too low to get underneath I am not that to bothered. I replace the parts typically well before there shelf life anyway(I am a fussy git).

Just curious, you change them because they was damage? What are the symptoms when they need to get replaced.

Every morning when I get out of my building garage, I hear a hummm noise on the rear right side. Then the noise goes.

How can I know if I need to change these beam bushes?

THX,

Isaac

Just curious, you change them because they was damage? What are the symptoms when they need to get replaced.

Every morning when I get out of my building garage, I hear a hummm noise on the rear right side. Then the noise goes.

How can I know if I need to change these beam bushes?

THX,

Isaac

I replaced these because i was getting a crashy , bang to the ride. It will be very noticable. The rear stopped absorbing the road surface and you could feel movement in the rear beam.

hope this helps

Hey Bowders1,

Thx for your reply.

I dont have the problem you mention. At the present time what I am hearing is a sound very similar to a door hinge that does not have oil.

Its doing this sound on the rear right and its make the sound for like ten seconds and then the noise goesfor the entire use of the car until I stop it at my office and then when I start it again and beguin to move, the noise is there for ten seconds and then goes away. I have more than 6 month with this issue. I was thinking to wait until the noise is worts and then the mechanic can figurate out what he need to replace

My rear is absorbing the road surface very good

Is there is a test I can do like before entering the car in the morning to spray some WD-40 in that part to see it do not make that sound.

Any advise?

BTW, My car is a 2002 Octavia 1.8T L&K with only 58,000kms

THX,

Isaac

Hey Bowders1,

Thx for your reply.

I dont have the problem you mention. At the present time what I am hearing is a sound very similar to a door hinge that does not have oil.

Its doing this sound on the rear right and its make the sound for like ten seconds and then the noise goesfor the entire use of the car until I stop it at my office and then when I start it again and beguin to move, the noise is there for ten seconds and then goes away. I have more than 6 month with this issue. I was thinking to wait until the noise is worts and then the mechanic can figurate out what he need to replace

My rear is absorbing the road surface very good

Is there is a test I can do like before entering the car in the morning to spray some WD-40 in that part to see it do not make that sound.

Any advise?

BTW, My car is a 2002 Octavia 1.8T L&K with only 58,000kms

THX,

Isaac

Hmm

I would not say it is your beam bushes but possibly the following:

1. squeaky Suspension spring. spray of WD40 would fix that , spray whole spring

2. rear brake shoe binding on disc. Could be that on initial start up and pull away disc pads are cold and rubbing then as you warm up the sound goes away and then when you drive home from work again noise is there at start up and pulling away

Again this is very common and drove me nuts with mine. It happens because the handbrake bracket and cable are not under spring load and thus there is a slight dragging of brake pad when cold because cable has not full returned to home position, You can get a brake support kit to fix that at around £100. can show pics if needed.

cheers

Mark

Couple of quickies bowders. Mine are shot, i know cos my shocks are new as part of my coily kit, but when hitting bumps i get the sensation of a bad shock and the rear wheel shakes a little in the mirror.

These fabia vrs bushes, would they be ok for a standard octy rear beam?

Is it just a mk1 fabia vrs set that i am looking for?

Thanks mate

Couple of quickies bowders. Mine are shot, i know cos my shocks are new as part of my coily kit, but when hitting bumps i get the sensation of a bad shock and the rear wheel shakes a little in the mirror.

These fabia vrs bushes, would they be ok for a standard octy rear beam?

Is it just a mk1 fabia vrs set that i am looking for?

Thanks mate

Hi Buddy sounds like your is mean bushes certainly if you get wheel movement

The bushes I used are indeed std Fabia VRS bushes as there are similiar to Seat Cupra R ones and better than the VRS Octy for some reason.

This is the std P/N 6Q0 501 541E

spotted these, what do you recon?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Octavia-Rear-Axle-Beam-Bushes-in-Polyurethane-/370573995706?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5647ee6eba#ht_3097wt_1039

or some upgraded FEBI ones, just cos of my budget ive chosen these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150655861125?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_676wt_1039

spotted these, what do you recon?

http://www.ebay.co.u...#ht_3097wt_1039

As I don't know that company can't answer but some poly bushes are too hard so if going poly would stick to well known brands like Powerflex or superpro but they are dearer.

or some upgraded FEBI ones, just cos of my budget ive chosen these

http://www.ebay.co.u...9#ht_676wt_1039

They look pretty much like the Fabia VRS ones as they do not have the voids in them which the octy does.

cheers

Mark

excellent mark thanks. Just trying to cut costs where i can

just a quick quiery, as you say you have to line up the raised marker in the bush with the marked point on the axle,,,,,,but Mine is lowered considerably and as the marker is just a reference and the car will not be sitting in its standard position, should i adjust the rotation to suit? It seems if its designed to go in one way, that way should be changed because of the axle angle?

as in this artists depiction

just a quick quiery, as you say you have to line up the raised marker in the bush with the marked point on the axle,,,,,,but Mine is lowered considerably and as the marker is just a reference and the car will not be sitting in its standard position, should i adjust the rotation to suit? It seems if its designed to go in one way, that way should be changed because of the axle angle?

as in this artists depiction

Like the rust marks buddy lol.

I would not change the orientation just because yours is lower, but use the original marks as that is where the alignment should be in relation to the beam and not where you lowered it. By the way mine is very low and no issues.

cheers

Well I did them, and the difference is huge. I drive around looking for drain covers etc while watching back wheel. Handling is improved a lot too.

One other thing, someone did a thread on car going left even after tracking being done. Mine did do this, but after rear bushes - straight and true.

I'll try find that thread and add it there too. May be the culprit.

Drive is a bit chintzy now though

Well I did them, and the difference is huge. I drive around looking for drain covers etc while watching back wheel. Handling is improved a lot too.

One other thing, someone did a thread on car going left even after tracking being done. Mine did do this, but after rear bushes - straight and true.

I'll try find that thread and add it there too. May be the culprit.

Very good job, glad you got it done and results are good and noticable.

Drive is a bit chintzy now though

you and your dam chintzy lol

I will never ever do the job again though. Absolutely the worst job i have ever done, and ive done a solid flywheel conversion.

Very good result, but it would take alot to get me to do it again

My hands were hurting, my knees, my back. Glad i did it but be aware it aint easy

Edited 5 October, 201213 yr by Lofty79

I will never ever do the job again though. Absolutely the worst job i have ever done, and ive done a solid flywheel conversion.

Very good result, but it would take alot to get me to do it again

My hands were hurting, my knees, my back. Glad i did it but be aware it aint easy

I did say you need patience buddy lol. Yep me knee did not operate for a few hours after. You do need to get in some odd positions to do it. Again not techical but lengthy job. But don't you feel better for doing it yourself.

I do indeed. If was less of an improvement id have been disappointed, but now after a few days of driving around i realise the benefit. The handling is great. I get a nice reassuring thud that matches the front when hitting drain covers etc, instead of a vague wobble. I suppose you could say it makes the car feel younger/newer, its me that feels older now

Just wanted to say a massive thanks to Bowders1 for this write up 👍 and for everyone else's comments

Things I found on my job:

Job had obviously been done before as the bolt was from the inside of the bush outwards. The manual says the bolt should be fed from the outside (nut on the inside). I ended up having to cut the bolt on the drivers side as it would not come out. They had obviously removed the 4 bolts holding the bracket but had stripped a bolt.

Manual says the torque setting is 45NM on 33 lb ft + 90 degrees

Once drilled, I found a chisel helpful to get through the last bits of rubber

I cleaned up the inner edge (where you start pulling the bush through) with a round file to make sure nothing caught on the new bush/plastic

I chamfered the plastic edge of the new bush to help it go in straight

All in all not a bad job, just long and you feel it on a 54 year old body lol