Hi,

On my Skoda Fabia 1.4MPi 2001 R reg car, all the lights will flicker for a few seconds at the same time.

When this happens I also get a gurgling noise from the front passenger side. I have tested the voltage with a voltmeter and it has a solid 14 volts but as soon as the lights flicker, it drops to 12.9v and then back up again!

Can someone advise; would this be a faulty alternator, battery or dirty wires? A new alternator is roughly £140 and more expensive than I would like!

Thanks

Do you have upgraded audio system with sub? If yes. then found your problem. If not check condition of alternator and tensioner bearings. If your belt skips or slip then can cause problem like yours.

Hi, thanks for your reply. No I am using the standard radio with speakers.

I have since had to replace my battery with new as only after 5 days the battery was completely dead, which I thought was a bit odd! The replacement battery is considerable larger (physically) than the previous and is a performance once if that will help any more?

But here is my problem. The first 3 days of using my new battery none of the lights flickered, no warning lights on the dash and no bubbling from the passenger side or voltage drops. After a week using my car the lights are flashing intermittently. I was wondering, is this a case the alternator is not charging the battery fully to 100% and is there anything I can do to test if the alternator is faulty? As you will know, this is quite an expensive part to replace and I'd rather find out this is the root cause than just replacing without knowing!

If this may not be the issue, what else could it be? I find it strange that the first few days where the battery will have had a 100% charge, all was fine!

Thanks in advance for your reply.

Edited 10 December, 201114 yr by Listey

If its gurgling from the front passenger side I would be looking at the PAS pump, id also be looking at replacing the battery earth lead, these are well known for causing voltage drop issues.

PS if your car is a 2001 model in the UK its not R reg (unless on a private reg)

If its gurgling from the front passenger side I would be looking at the PAS pump, id also be looking at replacing the battery earth lead, these are well known for causing voltage drop issues.

PS if your car is a 2001 model in the UK its not R reg (unless on a private reg)

Thank you for your reply. I will look into replacing the earth cable first and see how I get on.

id also be looking at replacing the battery earth lead, these are well known for causing voltage drop issues.

That's interesting. Suppose a good lazy method is to clean up the connections and bolt another earth lead on top of the existing one?

It's £12 for a new one, three bolts and it's done anyhow.

Ah thought you meant it was of insufficient gauge to carry the voltage, not that it had a tendency to corrode Could probably just about make your own with 0 awg for about the same money.

The new earth leads have been modified and are a big improvement over the originals.

About 8 months ago we were having all sorts of electrical problems with the wifes 06 fabia vRS (which is now my son's car), and they were all cured by replacing the main battery to inner wing earth lead.

The original lead always tested OK (ie zero resistance) when the car had been stood for a period of time but would show a increasing resistance the more electrical load was placed upon it, and at the same time would get quite warm to the touch.

Next year when I service the wifes 07 SE I'm going to change the earth lead to the new modified type in a hope to prevent future electrical problems.

Bill.

Interesting the new one is uprated and weak ones were used as late as 06/07.

Imagine to make your own all you'd need is one of http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Copper-Welding-Earth-Cable-50mm-365-Amps-Price-Per-Metre-/330643637108?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4cfbe58374 a battery terminal, a copper lug terminal, and heat shrink. Some solder and a blowtorch would probably also be a good idea.

It's £12 for a new one, three bolts and it's done anyhow.

Where can you get it for £12? My local dealer want to charge £24.29

Thanks

Where can you get it for £12? My local dealer want to charge £24.29

Thanks

Thats what I paid for a new earth lead from my local dealer in March this year.

Maybe TPS can do the lead a bit cheaper ????

Bill.

So I bought a new black ground cable for the battery to the chassis. This went well but I noticed there's a second cable which attached to the ground cable. What is this and does this need replacing too?

So I bought a new black ground cable for the battery to the chassis. This went well but I noticed there's a second cable which attached to the ground cable. What is this and does this need replacing too?

If you mean a thin one bolted to the battery terminal, it's there on mine too and I haven't a clue what it does. Presumably it's grounding a component from somewhere. Just fix to the original position.

anewman, thanks for your input. Maybe someone can enlighten us what it's for?

Back on topic. My lights are still flashing :( Any more ideas of what I can try before going down a new alternator?

There's further developments. This thin black wire which connects onto the thicker battery ground cable looks as if it's holding on by a thread and I would like to replace the wire, but I lose it when it goes into a wiring loom into the car!

Anyone know what this cable is called and whether I can do a repair with bridging the wire to another cable?

Thanks

You can cut the end off, strip the wire cover, and crimp a new lug terminal on the end. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Electrical/Crimp+Terminals/Copper+Tube+Crimp+Lugs+6sq+mm+Entry+8mm+hole/d190/sd2712/p55534 6sqmm entry 8mm hole should do the job. If doing this makes the wire too short would need to solder a bit more wire on.

Haven't looked at mine in a while. Is it a black/brown wire? If so, what I can tell from the wiring diagram, this goes to the central electrics module - and is described as "input (31 analogous)". Not a clue what this means other than that terminal "31" refers to an earth connection. Looking at the other connections, it appears this is the only ground provided to the central electrics module, I can only presume it is connected directly to the battery so that it can measure the battery voltage more precisely. The central electrics module controls - heated rear window, hazards, indicators, wipers, horn, interior light, heated and electric mirrors, boot release motor, reversing light, dash panel, fuel pump.

If the steering pump still makes noises I wonder if the issue could be there, or if it's a side effect. An issue that often gets mentioned is some sort of load sensing wire on the alternator itself breaking due to it being a little short. Not sure if this issue applies to the 1.4mpi. Has a code scan been done? A voltage regulator would be cheaper than the entire alternator, and could be tried first if nothing else helps.

You can cut the end off, strip the wire cover, and crimp a new lug terminal on the end. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Electrical/Crimp+Terminals/Copper+Tube+Crimp+Lugs+6sq+mm+Entry+8mm+hole/d190/sd2712/p55534 6sqmm entry 8mm hole should do the job. If doing this makes the wire too short would need to solder a bit more wire on.

Haven't looked at mine in a while. Is it a black/brown wire? If so, what I can tell from the wiring diagram, this goes to the central electrics module - and is described as "input (31 analogous)". Not a clue what this means other than that terminal "31" refers to an earth connection. Looking at the other connections, it appears this is the only ground provided to the central electrics module, I can only presume it is connected directly to the battery so that it can measure the battery voltage more precisely. The central electrics module controls - heated rear window, hazards, indicators, wipers, horn, interior light, heated and electric mirrors, boot release motor, reversing light, dash panel, fuel pump.

If the steering pump still makes noises I wonder if the issue could be there, or if it's a side effect. An issue that often gets mentioned is some sort of load sensing wire on the alternator itself breaking due to it being a little short. Not sure if this issue applies to the 1.4mpi. Has a code scan been done? A voltage regulator would be cheaper than the entire alternator, and could be tried first if nothing else helps.

Thanks for your informative reply.

I'll have a go at peeling back some wire & crimping onto a new lug as there is plenty of wire free.

If I disconnected the steering angle sensor what side effects would this cause?