Isn't a sweeping statement just saying don't nurse it basically. Just done the same with my new van at work and unless its my driving I am averaging 5mpg more than the other vans!

80c + is fine as it will have reached the correct viscosity by then.

Also it is a vrs afterall so drive it how it wants to be driven. It is more likely to highlight any issues now instead of 3years and 1months time. They will have been bench tested afterall so don't worry and just enjoy it.

My driving mix is fine as it's normally an eco run into work and a fast blast on the way home.

pmsl I do this... all the time, for example I have to go to carlisle today for an appointment, I will leave myself an hour to do the journey, and try my utmost to get the best economy from the car, as there is no need to rush with the timescales involved, and having a specific time to be there....

on the way back, I can predict I will probably be driving it like I stole it! lol.....

I used to do 50k a year, and have owned a new car every 2-3 years, and always drive them as normal to run them in... my fiat was even mapped at 4k, and still did 107k without going wrong, and without using a drop of oil...

my vRS was on the red line at the first slip road to the motoryway from the dealers... (though I do drive "normally " from new, and alot of the miles were gentle..) last 10k I've used 250mil of oil, and thats because I'm anal about checking it, it would have run between thouse services without a top up easy!

I still advocate, if you need full revs use it, if you need full throttle use it... (I even managed 150k in one of my citroens! a citroen I tell ya! lol..that had 20k service intervals, and I never put a drop of oil in it!)

I'd say brakes and tyres need to be run in for a couple of hundred miles before they work properly though !

If you hammer an engine during running in you may well not put much oil in.

What you have done is to accelerate the wear of the engine to a point where it is running efficiently.

What you have also done is to reduce the overall life of the engine.

Someone who has followed manufactures instructions, will probably put more oil in initially, but the life of the engine will have been extended.

I followed manufactures instructions and put oil in over the first 3,000miles, I now put almost none in at 10,000miles.

So if you don't care about the life of an engine and will sell after a couple of years, no problem.

That's why I never buy a second hand car.

Tony

What you have also done is to reduce the overall life of the engine.

Years ago maybe....not nowadays...

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I have also seen a certain VW dealer taking cars off a transporter (this one in particular was an R32) and he was bouncing it off the limiter when he took it off the ramp....

Edited 25 November, 201114 yr by jrw

Years ago maybe....not nowadays...

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I have also seen a certain VW dealer taking cars off a transporter (this one in particular was an R32) and he was bouncing it off the limiter when he took it off the ramp....

Wow that's a curve ball, so to get it right the engine needs to be sorted in the first 20 miles, so most of us haven't :(

If you hammer an engine during running in you may well not put much oil in.

What you have done is to accelerate the wear of the engine to a point where it is running efficiently.

What you have also done is to reduce the overall life of the engine.

Someone who has followed manufactures instructions, will probably put more oil in initially, but the life of the engine will have been extended.

I followed manufactures instructions and put oil in over the first 3,000miles, I now put almost none in at 10,000miles.

So if you don't care about the life of an engine and will sell after a couple of years, no problem.

That's why I never buy a second hand car.

Tony

I doubt it, I've done over 100k in all my new cars without issue, most was 140k ish in a citroen (again without engine issues) I ran the mark I fabia vRS for 80k with a cheap resister mod on it.. now surely that would have fubared the engine? nahh , it was fine...

modern oils are up to the job, Mobil 1 ran a BMW contantly for 100,000 miles, and changed the oil according to the reccomendations, and then they took the engine apart, and measured all the tolerances, and they could have sold it as a new engine, because it still came within factory tolerances for all engine parts!!

if I kept blowing up my cars I'd worry, but they have all run over 100k without issue. I dont expect this one to be any different, and I do keep them up to 100k (although I'll keep my fingers crossed with the gearbox..)

Wow that's a curve ball, so to get it right the engine needs to be sorted in the first 20 miles, so most of us haven't :(

Thats to get the optimal bedding in period. I would say that the 1st 1000miles are crucial judging by how i have run my last 3 cars:

03 Polo 1.9 TDI PD - Run as per book - Used oil like no tomorrow....half a litre every 1k

54 Bora 1.9 TDI PD - Run as per my previous post - no oil used between services and still the same at 90k and pulling like a train

10 Octy VRS 2.0 CR - Run as per my previous post - no oil needed before first service at 18.5k and now on 21k with a full dipstick.

I am not on about banging it off the redline at every oppurtunity, i am simple saying, use the full band of power once the engine is warm throughout the gears.

I am not on about banging it off the redline at every oppurtunity, i am simple saying, use the full band of power once the engine is warm throughout the gears.

agreed, I dont rag a new car to death either, I just drive normally, so if I need full throttle and max revs for an overtake I do.. chances are the next 97% of the journey is a steady gentle 60 mph!

veriaty is the key, and stretching its legs every now and then

I doubt it, I've done over 100k in all my new cars without issue, most was 140k ish in a citroen (again without engine issues) I ran the mark I fabia vRS for 80k with a cheap resister mod on it.. now surely that would have fubared the engine? nahh , it was fine...

modern oils are up to the job, Mobil 1 ran a BMW contantly for 100,000 miles, and changed the oil according to the reccomendations, and then they took the engine apart, and measured all the tolerances, and they could have sold it as a new engine, because it still came within factory tolerances for all engine parts!!

if I kept blowing up my cars I'd worry, but they have all run over 100k without issue. I dont expect this one to be any different, and I do keep them up to 100k (although I'll keep my fingers crossed with the gearbox..)

So, let's put it this way; if you knackered the engine within warranty and the dealer asked you if you followed manufacturers running in instructions you would say?

"No, I know much better than the manufacturers and ragged it from day one."

Of course you would because, honesty is the best policy.

Tony

Back to the OP and topic lads LOL!!

Putting my tuppence worth in, just drive it normally, don't pussy foot around thinking it is good for the engine and don't go bouncing off the rev limiter all the time. Drive it as you want to but have some fun in it occasionally!

Ian

So, let's put it this way; if you knackered the engine within warranty and the dealer asked you if you followed manufacturers running in instructions you would say?

"No, I know much better than the manufacturers and ragged it from day one."

Of course you would because, honesty is the best policy.

Tony

Nobody mentioned ragging the engine. fwiw all 3 cars i have bought brand new, they have all said that you don't need to worry about the running in at they are bench tested and run in already so just drive normally.

I seriously doubt that any dealer would ask how you run it in.....but this being a car forum and with all the keyboard warriors about, i am sure that it would all be logged in the ecu anyway.