Well, what a day this has been lol. Following pip_vrs guide and talking to him over on tdisport, also been talking to gaz_vrs who i bought this seat sport fmic, forge pipework and vrsdovit pipe from. I have now finially fitted my FMIC =]

I took some pics along the way so i hope this helps somebody out!

Before you start, have a nice cup of tea!

Then, make sure you have the required tools, these are the tools i used.

Grinder, hacksaw,torx set, socket set ( 1/4inch and 1/2inch drive), Spline set ( m8 spline you'll need), screwdrivers, 1.5mm elec crimps, cable, tape, hammer!, plus some others but i cant think of them atm.

Of course when using the grinder always use goggles

Firstly remove the bumper, there are numerous screws (for a pic have a look at pip_vrs guide (type in FMIC fitted in search) always remember to remove the very top screw in the both wheel arches!

Then remove headlights, i marked up using a marker pen where they situated so i cud put them back in the right place for correct light levels ( or near enuf lol)

I then removed the crash bar (large Torx bit required),

Once i had some decent access, i then started to remove the SMIC ( standard cooler )

There are 3 bolts holding this in place, 2 at the top and 1 at the bottom.

I firstly removed the pipe using a large flat head screwdriver to remove the clip

And then removed the sensor

Once removed, you can see the difference between the two coolers

I then removed all the boost pipes

Good write up

And is that a DRZ i spy in the garage

Cool write up man, looks awesome

What are your next plans? Are you looking to Stage 2 it or just leave it as it is?

Now the major dismantly started to occur lol, all i did was literally undo every screw/bolt i cud see haha,

I probably didnt need to take everything off but it did help me see what was going on better.

It helped me put the brackets on for the FMIC, i used 2 washers to space out between the rad and cooler.

All back together =]

Now time for the annoying bit! get your goggles out!

The 1 bumper bracket has to go, so get the grinder on it!

Crash bar needs ' TLC ' too , top and bottom!

Then you also got to cut the plastic surround, again, just cut wherever required lol

I did tidy that cut up after btw lol :p

Now everything secure its time for the pipework, this is pretty self explanatory.

I used some rubber seal stuff we use at work for sealing panels up to protect the pipes.

The long pipe needs to be cut about 3 inches too!

Now for the sensor, i didn't fancy straining the cables, so i lengthened the loom.

then tidy'd up =]

Left a lil loop just incase!

The next bit of cutting the bumper is trial and error, i dont have any pics sorry as i was too busy trying to sort it out before it got dark again.

Finished!

I have more pics on my facebook from my phone if this helps

http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=614614675&success=1

I wish i cud of done the job in my garage but my dad likes motorbikes lol

Nice bit of beading, winter protected by Pete @ Eclipse Detailing service from Swansea!

Cheers

Dan

Good write up

And is that a DRZ i spy in the garage

Yes dude in bright yellow haha, Drz 400 E my old man just informed me

Cool write up man, looks awesome

What are your next plans? Are you looking to Stage 2 it or just leave it as it is?

Cheers bud, yes stage 2 will be next, will be done at Shark after Santa has visited me with some money

You may find that the MAP sensor wires would prove to be be a much more professional and reliable job if they were soldered together and insulated with shrink sleeve.

Bill.

You may find that the MAP sensor wires would prove to be be a much more professional and reliable job if they were soldered together and insulated with shrink sleeve.

Bill.

Yeah i was about to do that but had no heat shrink :( the crimps will hold im sure =]