Hello, new to posting on the forum but have been viewing it for a while now.

i was attepting to replace the rear pads on my fabia tdi, i got the caliper off and the old pads removed, i then tried to wind back the piston, it turns but doesnt actually go back?

any ideas? also, will the handbrake cable still being connected affect the ability for the piston to go back or not? the cable is pretty loose and the handbrake off obviously.

cheers in advance, andy

To get the piston to retract, you need to push the piston back at the same time as you turn it.

Hello, new to posting on the forum but have been viewing it for a while now.

i was attepting to replace the rear pads on my fabia tdi, i got the caliper off and the old pads removed, i then tried to wind back the piston, it turns but doesnt actually go back?

any ideas? also, will the handbrake cable still being connected affect the ability for the piston to go back or not? the cable is pretty loose and the handbrake off obviously.

cheers in advance, andy

Even with the Laser caliper winder tool mine felt "difficult" to get started. Just take it easy and if things get too stiff, back it off a bit, reset and try again.

PS: I re-attached one caliper bolt to hold it in place, otherwise would need three hands.

PPS: Guide I've seen shows how to disconnect/reconnect the handbrake cable... (Somewhere n this site or on Fabia-vrs.com...

J.

We ended up getting a tool in the end for my Polo (same system). We tried turning with pilers while pushing back, and got nowhere.

You're more than welcome to borrow it if you're local - it only takes 30 seconds or so. . . Although I'm guessing by the name you're not local!

Cheers for the replies, I have a tool for opening calipers that are non winding, I'll give that a go along with the turning. The handbrake cable being attached shouldn't be an issue then?

It's always when the weather turns that easy jobs end up difficult isn't it!

If all else fails you could pop the caliper off and use a hammer and screw driver..... 'Someone I know' has done this before and it worked.

Cheers for the replies, I have a tool for opening calipers that are non winding, I'll give that a go along with the turning. The handbrake cable being attached shouldn't be an issue then?

It's always when the weather turns that easy jobs end up difficult isn't it!

You have to have a winding back tool to be honest.

Laserline do one in halfords for £20. Ebay alternatives for about £10.

Some people say you can use pliers and stuff, but in the real world you could easily end up slipping and ripping the rubber piston seal, and then you're wasting more time and money.. and time off the road..

Plus even with the correct tool, it is still CAN BE a mission winding the caliper back as they are fairly stubborn as the rear pads haven't probably been changed in 30-50,000miles. In the past I've needed a mate to hold the caliper, whilst I applied a wheel brace to the windback tool to get the caliper started.. it really was that bad!!

You would really be better off getting a rewind tool - maybe pass your ordinary one through the system (ebay) and buy the proper rewinding tool - you can always use the new one to push back ordinary callipers if you reverse the keyed part - or use a thin bit of wood. I'd always fancied buying a spreader, but never got round to it, so now just use the rewinder tool on the front as well. Leaving the handbrake cable on is not an issue I think, but what I found on my B5 Passat once, was that if I moved the handbrake lever slightly, then a "jammed" piston could be wound in. Getting the handbrake cable off the rear levers is easy anyway, or you can always just remove the retaining clip where the outer gets fixed to the stop at the rear of the car.

You have to have a winding back tool to be honest.

Laserline do one in halfords for £20. Ebay alternatives for about £10.

Some people say you can use pliers and stuff, but in the real world you could easily end up slipping and ripping the rubber piston seal, and then you're wasting more time and money.. and time off the road..

I think that as well as the risk of damaging the piston dust cover, you could probably add up getting bits of skin and blood on the calipers!

Don't you have to rewind them anti-clockwise??

From my memory I think you wind them clockwise, it's same as tightening up a bolt. I could be wrong, as it's been atleast 12months since I replaced the rears on my R32. Pretty sure it's clockwise though.. i dont remember it being abnormal anyway...

Undo the bleed screw before you wind the piston back.

Going to have another go tomorrow morning I think, as mentioned I have tried to wind back, the piston turns but doesn't actually retract? Do people think the use of a spreader should help also then?and the bleed nipple lol.

As has been said it takes abit of force "push back" and turn to initally get the piston started..then it screws back ok...."clockwise".....and get a windback tool........THE ONLY way to do the job without ####ing up your fingers, the rubber dust skirts etc.....and open the bleed screw......also measure the thickness of the pads and the disk and only wind back to that distance......I've seen people forcibly wind a piston so far back (right to the stops..hard) it stuck .....and had to be unwound/presurized out a bit.......

It's definately clockwise. I did mine the other week.

Just make sure the handbrake is off when you do it and it's fine.

I spent ages trying with a clamp and pliers and all sorts and got a rewind tool for £20 from my local car shop. Made a hell of a difference and wish I'd have bought it sooner!

I had to wind them out a little first as they wouldn't budge winding them in at first. Obviously just needed loosening off a bit.

Phil

It's definately clockwise. I did mine the other week.

Just make sure the handbrake is off when you do it and it's fine.

I spent ages trying with a clamp and pliers and all sorts and got a rewind tool for £20 from my local car shop. Made a hell of a difference and wish I'd have bought it sooner!

I had to wind them out a little first as they wouldn't budge winding them in at first. Obviously just needed loosening off a bit.

Phil

This is the tool. I couldn't find it cheaper.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-1314-Caliper-Piston-Re-wind/dp/tech-data/B002V72SHS/ref=de_a_smtd

Though the BERGEN or USPRO one is sometimes cheaper on dropshiponline (when in stock).

http://www.dropshiponline.co.uk/index.php?cPath=514/

Even with the tool the amount of force required seemed high. I would not have been able to do the job without the tool. Or at least, I'd have spent a day on it rather than an hour or two to do all 4 sets of pads.

J.

The rear caliper piston wind-back tool is essential for fitting new pads . Using pliers is asking for trouble ! If you don't damage the dust seal you may spear you hands with the end of the pliers ! You do have to put a fair bit of pressure on the piston before turning clockwise and the pressure needs to be maintained whilst winding back.It's a good idea to slacken the handbrake cable and un-clipping the end from the caliper. The handbrake lever re-adjustment is quite asimple job . Adjusting the cable, after a few applications of the brakes to seat the pads, ensures you have properly adjusted handbrake . You should check that each of the rear wheels are completely free with the handbrake off and are fully locked ( both sides) with the handbrake on.

A wind-back tool will last you a lifetime. It is possible to buy individual adaptor discs to cater for different makes / models in the future.

If the rubber seal around the piston has come off (or won't go back on flush) does this mean my calliper is nackerd? Had a hell of a job to wind the calliper back in managed to get it back far enough to get the new pads in now iam haveing a noise every now and then with a burning rubber smell any ideas please (fabia vrs)

I have found that when pads are worn to min the piston will have been extended quite far out of caliper / cylinder and each time there was oxidization / crud under the outer boot requiring the piston to be polished   I usually then give it a thin smear of hydraulic oil then wind it back.

If the rubber seal around the piston has come off (or won't go back on flush) does this mean my calliper is nackerd? Had a hell of a job to wind the calliper back in managed to get it back far enough to get the new pads in now iam haveing a noise every now and then with a burning rubber smell any ideas please (fabia vrs)

It'll need a new caliper fella, I had one the same and it melted its way through pads in no time

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I had to buy a new caliper as one of mine had seized solid, bought it from TPS, took 3 days for delivery to them. I bought new bolts too. I had a problem rewinding the piston, really stiff to move.