Hi,

I have previously blanked the EGR off with a stainless steel plate in a suitable location on my previous car. The result was eliminated smoke, as it never sealed properly (I had the car from new - and the dealer denied anything wrong with it).

I also ended up with 10% better MPG.

Is there any mileage in doing the same on the 2.5 tdi? I have noticed a bit of smoke at over 100mph (in Germany) in the summer. But maybe I just have worn injectors. Have not noticed a boost leak.

Just wondered if anyone has done this.

Have no idea what effect it has but it seems pretty cheap and easy to try as shown here

Wouls alos be interested in any feedback from anyone who has tried it.

If EGR is working correctly, no point to disable it as it will increase fuel consumption in winter (very long warmup time, on 1.9tdi that I tried it, it was 3x longer than with egr in winter town riding)

But you may want to adjust amount of air fed at idle using VCDS, login 35342, adaptation group 3 for BDG engine. Basically, you adjust displayed requested air amount for higher value (do not remember if actual adaptation number goes same way or opposite).

On a 2.5TDI engine with pilot catalyst removed, it pays to actually increase EGR and get even shorter warmup time and smoother idle sound.

If EGR is working correctly, no point to disable it as it will increase fuel consumption in winter (very long warmup time, on 1.9tdi that I tried it, it was 3x longer than with egr in winter town riding)

But you may want to adjust amount of air fed at idle using VCDS, login 35342, adaptation group 3 for BDG engine. Basically, you adjust displayed requested air amount for higher value (do not remember if actual adaptation number goes same way or opposite).

On a 2.5TDI engine with pilot catalyst removed, it pays to actually increase EGR and get even shorter warmup time and smoother idle sound.

Some fair points here - however, with a leaky valve, and most leak to some extent, air will get diluted by exhaust fumes and at high loads a diesel engine needs every little bit of air to avoid smoke generation. Yes, around town different story as most of the time it's running very lean anyway. Must not forget the long term carbon / soot clogging up problems either. I have seen diesels where the inlet is so clogged up that the engine was breathing through half the original cross-sectional area.

How much do u guys get from the full tank?

Very interested to do things to my car to get more Mpg

So....I will follow this

p.s

freand of my with jag. Diesel v6 03-reg just download New software to his ecu and gone from 350 per tank to 500 miles per tank

will the EGR. help to get better Mpg in the real life????

How much do u guys get from the full tank?

Very interested to do things to my car to get more Mpg

So....I will follow this

p.s

freand of my with jag. Diesel v6 03-reg just download New software to his ecu and gone from 350 per tank to 500 miles per tank

will the EGR. help to get better Mpg in the real life????

On my previous truck, Nissan Navara, blanking the EGR improved my best mpg from 35 to 38, same route, same speed, same driver (me).

Generally speaking, EGR just slows the burn rate of fuel down, so lower noise, but at he same time heats up the inlet manifold so reduces volumetric efficiency.

You can get better fuel consumption by reducing EGR, however in the winter if you do regular cold starts, the longer warm up time with EGR blanked off might cause increased fuel consumption.

I think if someone goes from 350 to 500 miles per tank with a recalibration, then surely something was wrong with the car in the first place as it's too much of a gain!

So if I block it I will wait longer in cold mornings for it to warm up

but

it will give me up to 5 Mpg extra especially on summer

is that right?

So if I block it I will wait longer in cold mornings for it to warm up

but

it will give me up to 5 Mpg extra especially on summer

is that right?

That was my experience with the previous car.

Have not tried it on the 2.5 tdi yet!

There is someone selling something relevant on ebay;

EGR Blanking plate

i'm thinking to fit oil catch tank that should release presser from the top of the motor and fit egr blanking plate

what u pips think

That was my experience with the previous car.

Have not tried it on the 2.5 tdi yet!

There is someone selling something relevant on ebay;

EGR Blanking plate

i'm thinking to fit oil catch tank that should release presser from the top of the motor and fit egr blanking plate

what u pips think

I can see that fuel economy is on top of your agenda, so I will try and help a bit. But first of all;

If you have pressure in your crankcase then you have a blocked breather filter - this is a common problem with these engines, particularly if neglected. Should never really need this filter replaced if run on synthetic oils and changed every 10000 miles.

A blocked breather will manifest as major oil leaks. It will also give rise to many top end problems linked to oil starvation, such as worn out camshafts and rockers which can cost as little as £1000 to fix DIY or as much as £4000 by a main dealer!

Assuming you don't have this problem, and your car has not done a starship mileage and burning oil by the bucket loads, there is absolutely no point in having a catch tank installed!

EGR blanking plate might help though in having better fuel economy but possibly only if you tend to do a fair number of miles between cold starts.

Something I have found since fitting 205 55 R16 winter tyres is that the local fuel consumption has improved quite a bit compared to my summer tyres which are 225 45 R17.

So if you are not too bothered with the looks, get a set of old passat 16 inch wheels and ride with those.

Running the engine on 5W30 oil also helps fuel economy. I run mine on Mobil ESP 5w30 which is fully synthetic VAG 507.00 specification oil.

Making sure tyre pressures are always spot on also helps. Old rusty brakes will cost fuel too, especially if pads are quite heavily worn and possibly the piston in the callipers struggles to release pressure as it's being cantilevered on the extreme of its travel. It's just a few newtons here and there but it does add up to MPGs.

If most of your mileage is on the motorway, then it would be worth dropping the car 20 -30mm as this will reduce air resistance.

Also shed any unwanted weight from the boot. 50kg in the boot of junk will cost you 1-2 mpg.

You might also like to consider the idea of producing your own fuel - like me - I sometimes run mine on B100 biodiesel and runs like a dream. But do this only if you have a sense of chemistry and do your research. It's actually quite simple to do, as long as you have common sense and space to do it in. The Skoda Superb 2.5 tdi is B100 approved by the manufacturer. B100 costs about 70 pence a litre to make, and the equipment to make it starts from around £300. So I have a car with a lifetime average MPG of 38mpg. In theory running B100 all the time through the summer will give me an "equivalent" MPG of over 75 mpg, in terms of dino diesel cost per mile. Now that's impressive.