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Rear Pads & Discs Change

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Yep pretty much the same. You might find you need an impact driver to get the screw out holding the disc to the hub. And with new pads you'll need to adjust the handbrake as it'll end up with loads of slack.

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Thanks for the reply CE. Do I take it to adjust the handbrake I'll just have to pull it on and off a few times before my test drive or is ther more to it than that? I'll be fitting them at work next Sat and I work for a plant hire company so have an impact driver to use which is lucky. Where is the best place to put my axle satnds once the rear is jacked up?

If you can't get the screw out don't worry you can just cut the head off, just means its a little harder to get the wheels on again as you have to line the discs up without the screw to keep them in place.

The handbrake has to be adjusted by turning a nut on the cable that runs through the centre console behind the handbrake lever. You have to take the little cubby hole bit out to get to it with a spanner. With the wheels off so you can see the calipers, and the handbrake off, loosen the nut off until the two little levers on each caliper are resting on the calipers. Then tighten the nut until the levers are about 1mm off the caliper. You'll now find when you put the handbrake on it'll be nice and tight, will only go up 3 or 4 clicks. I would get a Haynes manual if I were you its all covered in there.

As for where to put the axle stands there's a thread at the top of the forum with the official jacking and stand points. I think when I did it I took the tops out of my stands and positioned them so the cylinder parts of the stands supported the brackets on either side of the chassis that the rear beam bushes fit into. Just don't put stands under the rear beam itself - you'll bend it.

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So the cubby hole is it the bit that folds out from the centre console if you were sitting in the back seats? Do I have to loosen this off before I do any thing to the rear brakes?

The cubby hole is the little recess in front of the rear ashtray if I remember rightly you can lever it out of the centre console, the adjustment nut for the handbrake cable is directly underneath. Might help access if you take the rear ashtray out as well though.

You don't have to adjust the nut beforehand just have the handbrake off while you do the work (and front wheels chocked).

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Cool. Cheers mate. I really apreciate your help. It was me that followed you to the pub on the last Southend meet in the red Octi RS but never got a chance to have a chat. Hopefully get a chance to have a chat at a future meet as you really know your stuff and being noob I need all the help I can get. Plus you can have a go in my Octi just to quench your thirst for the mean time lol. All though i'm not promising it will be as nice to drive as Pete's.

P.S Haynes manual just purchased via ebay

Cheers H

No problem mate. Yes Petes was lovely I am tempted but I think if I did get another Mk1 it'd be a 4x4. The Haynes manual is really helpful - with that, a code reader and Briskoda you can tackle anything on the Octy :thumbup:

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Would a code reader or VCDS lite and a cable be better?

Rear brakes are easy,

I would really suggest getting or borrowing a wind back tool though as makes job so much easier

Like this one soo easy to wind back in caliper piston. As It is threaded you can't just press in, or you bugger it up

Dads2010254.jpg

Also I would clean the caplier sliders and re grease then so teh caliper is nice and smooth runing to stop seizing or binding. Can see the main caliper body fixed and the caplier /piston section that slides removed

Dads2010248.jpg

Here you can see better position of the pads fitted

Dads2010258.jpg

Dads2010259.jpg

Here you can see the center consule with plastic tray removed to expose the handbrake central adjuster. Need to have around 5 clicks on handbrake to stop binding.

VRSRearBrakeMooingsquelfix18.jpg

VRSRearBrakeMooingsquelfix15.jpg

I am good to you...... :happy:

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Oh yes you are matey.I 'll be using my fiitters wind back toll which is good and cheap (free). Whoop Whoop.

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When I did the rear pads and discs on my Siggy I removed the sliders and regreasd them so will do the same this time and all other parts that require it..

Good pics there, especially on how to get to the adjustment nut. Maybe we could combine these into a guide and put it in the guides section?

Good pics there, especially on how to get to the adjustment nut. Maybe we could combine these into a guide and put it in the guides section?

I have enough pics to do a guide so will do the usual and post it later.

maybe pdf it so pics don't get lost or need updated?

Remember to copper grease the back of the pads to stop squeaks!!

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