Hey,

Just bought an '05 (Jan, so I think it was built 04) vRS PD 130 , as yet I cant upload any new pics, I gather there's some sort of site maintenance going on??

Anyway the Fabia is superb, no not a Superb but amazing. From what I've picked up so far I've got a 150pd turbo with front mounted inter-cooler, I will list the rest later when I figure out how to edit my profile etc.. but the problem is I also have a set of coil-overs and the return pipe from the turbo to the inter-cooler is rubbing against the drive shaft and has ate itself a nice big hole in the silicone hose so now I have no pressure its going in on Wednesday to get fixed by the guys that built it but I cant really see how its gonna work as there's not a lot of room between the drive-shaft and the fan belt (which I just had to change as well as it was rubbing and frayed the belt) so anyone know how the Guys can sort this out and still keep the car low???

Apologies in advance I'm a bit Homer Simpson when it comes to cars

I think this is the pipe that mine done it to. Unit 18 made me a little bracket up when they fixed it to move it away from the shaft.

When i got my Seat Sport FMIC fitted, i used the Forge piping kit with it, but had to chop around an inch or so off the rear hose to shorten it, to prevent rubbing

I did this too!

You need to pull it forward somehow, i did this by shortening a silicone hose so it was pulled taught

Or clock the cold side a little bit to clear the d/s better

How much clearance do you need? millimetres or a good inch or so?

sorry thanks for the replies i only got a quick look but there didnt seem to be much room at all

ive been thinking if there was a pipe that was round at the ends and flat in the bend maybe??

hopefully they can bring it forward enough to clear it from any rubbing ive had the car for 4 days now and only drove it properly for 20 mins grrrr

Or clock the cold side a little bit to clear the d/s better

clock??

When i got my Seat Sport FMIC fitted, i used the Forge piping kit with it, but had to chop around an inch or so off the rear hose to shorten it, to prevent rubbing

u on coilovers?? mine r wound rite down ive asked for them to be raised a bit when its in

this is how low it is.......

Sorted this problem this weekend!

90* silicone off the turbo angled towards the block, short ally joiner to a 45* silicone so theyre flush together. Then cut down the alloy pipe by a few inches (the off cut we beaded and used for the joiner) and job done!

This gave maximum clearance of the driveshaft and still left room around the crank pulley.

I'll get pics when I can.

clock??

Process of re-orienting the compressor cover on the turbo to point the outlet nozzle in a different dirrection.

Yeah I think there's 8 x 10mm(?) bolts to slacken off then rotate cold side

Sorted this problem this weekend!

90* silicone off the turbo angled towards the block, short ally joiner to a 45* silicone so theyre flush together. Then cut down the alloy pipe by a few inches (the off cut we beaded and used for the joiner) and job done!

This gave maximum clearance of the driveshaft and still left room around the crank pulley.

I'll get pics when I can.

I've done exactly the same thing.

90 degree silicone hose of turbo, angled towards block, with alloy joiner, 45 silicone hose, 300mm alloy pipe, silicone joiner, 90 degree 150mm alloy pipe, 51mm to 60mm reducing silicone straight hose into intercooler.

Process of re-orienting the compressor cover on the turbo to point the outlet nozzle in a different dirrection.

I had to do this with my new MD376! The outlet was right next to the rear bulkhead!

Yep same for me, I think it's an a3 config they come in?

I've done exactly the same thing.

90 degree silicone hose of turbo, angled towards block, with alloy joiner, 45 silicone hose, 300mm alloy pipe, silicone joiner, 90 degree 150mm alloy pipe, 51mm to 60mm reducing silicone straight hose into intercooler.

Process of re-orienting the compressor cover on the turbo to point the outlet nozzle in a different dirrection.

Sorted this problem this weekend!

90* silicone off the turbo angled towards the block, short ally joiner to a 45* silicone so theyre flush together. Then cut down the alloy pipe by a few inches (the off cut we beaded and used for the joiner) and job done!

This gave maximum clearance of the driveshaft and still left room around the crank pulley.

I'll get pics when I can.

ah cheers for the replies guys i cant remember what sort of clearence there is in there but ive ordered a lot of new hoses etc so hopefully they will do the job :-) ill post a few pics if i get them on and clear of the driveshaft.........will i still need to turn the outlet nozzle on the turbo or hve some people cleared it without changing it?? what i mean is can i do any damage to the turbo?? im not a mechanic and dont wanna mess it up!!!

Leave the turbo, you can work around it with your pipes! I only had to do it as my hybrid came with the outlet pointing towards the bulkhead!