I think I have a sticky caliper again (handbrake is starting to feel slack, it used to resist as soon as I lifted it but now I can get the warning light on before it really pushes back) and my rear brakes are getting a bit worn anyway no thanks to previous sticky caliper issues. So they need a good clean and I might chuck a set of cheap new ECP discs and pads on as well as there can't be much life left in the pads I've got.

Firstly, is it a left-handed or right-handed rewind tool I need? I think it's right-handed (read that the pistons turn clockwise to go back in, which would be the behaviour of a standard right-hand threaded screw) but could do with double-checking that before ordering anything.

Secondly, the handbrake assembly is a sort of horizontal V-shape on the back of the calipers. But which part is meant to move when you put the handbrake on, is it the "top" part of the V or the "bottom"? I'm hoping that if I can have a look underneath with the handbrake on and off I'll be able to work out which side is sticking and give it an extra good clean when I swap the discs and have the calipers off anyway.

Cheers

The rewind tool is a standard bit of kit, they all wind the same way- clockwise.

Unsure what you're on about with the handbrake but wd40 would be a good start I think

The rewind tool is a standard bit of kit, they all wind the same way- clockwise.

Unsure what you're on about with the handbrake but wd40 would be a good start I think

Ummm, no they don't. Once you start on Ford and French manufacturers it's anyone's guess.

Left and right hand threaded tools exist.

e.g. http://www.dropshiponline.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=514&products_id=1360&osCsid=fb67e55bc14bffbb2385c42490959fa6

J.

What he said, you can get them in both directions. I believe from what I've read that VW would need a standard right-hand thread, but just want someone else to say yes or no before I order (as I'm probably going to get that from ECP as well so I can get a bit of Brisky discount). Although that kit vindaloo linked to is actually cheaper than the Sealey tools on ECP so I might buy that instead.

What I mean by the handbrake is that the handbrake assembly works around two "arms" on the back of the caliper. These arms are pulled together by the handbrake cable when you lift the handbrake, which then rotates the brake piston and pushes it outwards, gripping the pads. Obviously for this to work, one of the arms is fixed in place and the other arm moves so it can be pulled towards the fixed arm, but I don't know which of the arms should be moving. If I knew which of the arms was meant to move it'd give me a better idea of which one of my calipers is sticking again so I know which one needs looking at.

Ummm, no they don't. Once you start on Ford and French manufacturers it's anyone's guess.

Left and right hand threaded tools exist.

e.g. http://www.dropshiponline.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=514&products_id=1360&osCsid=fb67e55bc14bffbb2385c42490959fa6

J.

Jesus, I never knew that! Right well, skoda is a right hand thread as I used it the other day and also just looked at mine.

Also on the box it states it's for vw, Mazda,ford,Peugeot etc

Just get the Laser tools tool stated for VW.........as yes other car manufactureres can be oposite thread!!!

As for sticky caliper......get a set of new dust skirts and piston seals from a Skoda parts dept at a dealer. Less than £20 for both calipers and then strip them down and use 2000grit wet and dry with brake fluid to polish the piston and get the carp of......then fit new seals.......Did all front and rear on my car last year.......way better now!!!

I'll nip down to Halfords some time and have a look but I've used a Laser one before and it bent when winding a mates LCR rear calipers back in so I'm not convinced of the quality, that's why I was going to buy a different one this time around. Obviously got the price refunded by Halfords, but they didn't have another one in stock so it meant leaving the job for a day or so while we found another one. Not something I can do really, as I need the car just about every day.

Will bear that in mind about getting new skirts and seals, I don't suppose you have a part number that I can ring up TPS with? Although I'm guessing your 1.4 has different calipers, mine are just the standard vRS 232mm rears for now but i dunno what system the 1.4s have?

Will bear that in mind about getting new skirts and seals, I don't suppose you have a part number that I can ring up TPS with? Although I'm guessing your 1.4 has different calipers, mine are just the standard vRS 232mm rears for now but i dunno what system the 1.4s have?

My 1.4 has the same rear discs as the vrs I think......the calipers are the standard Lucas type used on most VAG cars (octavia,etc).......and don't have the part no's to hand....would have to dig out the old invoice...

No probs, I'll have a Google around or if not, I'll ring TPS and see if they can look it up. I usually have no problem getting them to find actual parts, but they're not always too hot on finding repair kits.

No probs, I'll have a Google around or if not, I'll ring TPS and see if they can look it up. I usually have no problem getting them to find actual parts, but they're not always too hot on finding repair kits.

From memory you only need one kit for the rears as this has all 4 parts (two seals, two dust skirts, one of each for each caliper)......where as on the fronts you need two kits as each kit just has one seal and one dust skirt!!!!

I'm not clear at all about how you are describing the handbrake action at the calliper end. On each rear calliper, there there is the end of the crude threaded bit that moves the piston out when the handbrake lever is raised. The end of this shaft has a flat section and is partially threaded, a lever with a flat section is fitted over this shaft and is retained by a nut - the flat sections mean that the lever rotates the shaft and does not rotate on it. With the handbrake off and enough or correct adjustment on the cable, this lever returns to an end stop cast on the calliper body. To check which side is causing problems, see which side is not returning to the end stop with the handbrake off and, with the handbrake on, see which side is lower. Now this is just an indication of what is happening, you will still need to remove and clean up both sides and "zero" the pistons to sort out any problems, as well as replacing worn discs and pads.(why not just get Pagid stuff from ECP its quite cheap?)

Edited 29 February, 201214 yr by rum4mo

but I've used a Laser one before and it bent when winding a mates LCR rear calipers back in so I'm not convinced of the quality, that's why I was going to buy a different one this time around.

I'd contact Laser and pass the feedback . I've done work for this company in Southam and the GM is a petrolhead, and takes tools seriously . Also the quality manager is also interested in making sure that customers are happy.

I'd contact Laser and pass the feedback . I've done work for this company in Southam and the GM is a petrolhead, and takes tools seriously . Also the quality manager is also interested in making sure that customers are happy.

I'd agree with that way of doing things, Laser Tools don't seem to be trying one on anyone, so any problems should be passed to them - if you have time, although you were correct in letting Halfords (the sellars) handle your problem. Trouble is Laser Tools do not sell direct to us, they are playing fair by letting their appointed dealers do that - which can be annoying as Halfords price still includes P&P!

I would have done, if it had occurred at the time. Was more in a mad rush to get a replacement tool to finish the job, so just went back to Halfords and got them to check stock in other local stores; no one had one. So it just got left with them and refunded, and I rushed off to see what other options there were.

I'm not clear at all about how you are describing the handbrake action at the calliper end. On each rear calliper, there there is the end of the crude threaded bit that moves the piston out when the handbrake lever is raised. The end of this shaft has a flat section and is partially threaded, a lever with a flat section is fitted over this shaft and is retained by a nut - the flat sections mean that the lever rotates the shaft and does not rotate on it. With the handbrake off and enough or correct adjustment on the cable, this lever returns to an end stop cast on the calliper body. To check which side is causing problems, see which side is not returning to the end stop with the handbrake off and, with the handbrake on, see which side is lower. Now this is just an indication of what is happening, you will still need to remove and clean up both sides and "zero" the pistons to sort out any problems, as well as replacing worn discs and pads.(why not just get Pagid stuff from ECP its quite cheap?)

Indeed, Pagid stuff from ECP is the way forward for this, it's about £35 with Brisky discount, so that's the discs and pads sorted. All I wanted to know was which part of the handbrake assembly was supposed to move; the top or the bottom. It's designed that one of the arms moves closer to the other one but I don't know whether it's designed that the top arm moves down with the handbrake on (and then springs back up) or the bottom arm moves up with the handbrake on (and springs back down). Bear in mind that I've already got Sharan return springs on there as well, so this shouldn't be a problem any more :(

I'm still not clear why you think that there are two parts that move - there is only one lever per calliper. Take a look under the car, you can work out which way the lever on each calliper moves from where the handbrake cable comes onto the lever - if the cable comes from above, then the lever on each calliper moves up when the brake is applied, conversaly, if the cable comes from below, then the lever on each calliper moves down when the brake is applied. Take a look at the pictures in the thread/guide on this forum that covers fitting the Sharan return springs for clarification - I don't have a Fabia VRS, but all the cars that share this platform, and have rear disc brakes, use the same system/parts.

I'm still not clear why you think that there are two parts that move - there is only one lever per calliper. Take a look under the car, you can work out which way the lever on each calliper moves from where the handbrake cable comes onto the lever - if the cable comes from above, then the lever on each calliper moves up when the brake is applied, conversaly, if the cable comes from below, then the lever on each calliper moves down when the brake is applied. Take a look at the pictures in the thread/guide on this forum that covers fitting the Sharan return springs for clarification - I don't have a Fabia VRS, but all the cars that share this platform, and have rear disc brakes, use the same system/parts.

I didn't say there were two parts that moved, I know there's just one. But with poor visibility under the car in the dark evenings, and not having a second person to apply/release the handbrake while I watch, it wasn't clear which part moved. However, you've now answered that (my handbrake cable comes up from below, so must pull the top lever down), so thanks

Time for another stupid question. Do I need a different tool for each side? I assume that since the handbrake is "mirrored" onto the other side, the drivers and passengers pistons are also threaded the opposite way and need winding back in the other direction?

Well, we failed miserably at this last night. Got the caliper/carrier bolts off and removed the caliper as per the guide in the tech section, but the discs were still stuck on the hubs. Can't give them a knock from the back as the heatshields are in the way, and can't get the heatshields or carriers off because the bolts are seized and the heads were starting to round off! In the end we had to fit the new pads on one side as the old ones had to be pryed off and got damaged. I'm guessing that there wasn't enough copper grease used the last time the brakes were changed (which was done well before I bought the car a year ago) and maybe the bolts have been tightened a bit "enthusiastically"...

So I'm popping up to Shark today so Shark_Rob can have a go at it as he'll have more useful tools for getting rid of seized bolts, he's ordering me a set of new bolts and the new seals fabdavrav mentioned above. So hopefully by the end of today there'll be a couple of shiny new discs with nice thick pads, no more sticky calipers and a nice firm handbrake again.

Well you will have worked out that both sides wind in the same way. Getting siezed discs off, there will be a retaining screw which needs removing, then its usually just a case of using a copper headed hammer and striking in towards the "top hat" section - that will shock most if not all the rust up and that will release most seized discs. Now getting the calliper carriers off, I played safe and bought new bolts before doing this job. By doing this you can be in no doubt what sort of tool you need to get them off, HEX, SPINE, TORX or RIB. Not knowing exactly what the caphead insert type is is always going to end in grief. I'm guessing this is what happened with you. One thing though, if you had got the old discs off, you might have, despite what some people find, not been able to fit the slightly bigger new discs without resorting to quite a bit of force.

I'm sure your "indie" will have sorted it out for you by now, I've been trying to get smarter as I get older and put a bit of copperease between the hub flange and disc, then after every winter, take the discs off and make sure the inner surface has not become rusted up - and I use loctite on the carrier bolts as their "locking" feature (marked inner face) disappears after its first use.

Edited 2 March, 201214 yr by rum4mo

I did indeed work out that both sides wind the same way (got the passenger side wound back to get the new pads in). We did give the centre of the disc a few good whacks but it wasn't shifting still. Arun had the right size tools, they were a nice snug fit inside the bolt heads, it's just that the bolts weren't shifting with a good amount of force and we didn't want to really force them off without having replacements to hand in case they were unusable, I'd rather leave the job for a day or so until everything's there. Which is what we had to do today, went up to Shark as planned but TPS only had enough bolts and seals for one side and they never delivered them in time so I'm going back up again tomorrow when Rob will have all the bolts and seals he needs to "refresh" the calipers on both sides, and I'll make sure that he greases everything up apart from the pads themselves so when they need to come off next time it's a lot easier! Taking the discs off regularly does sound like a good idea as well.

As for disc width, that's why the job started by trying to undo the carriers as well, so the whole lot would come off and the disc could just be pulled straight off the hub, then new disc straight on and everything re-attached. Seems easier than trying to get the whole disc out at an extreme angle over the hub, and trying to force the new disc back in.