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How To: Charcoal Cansiter Delete Mod

Featured Replies

Hi folks,

This is the last emisions clean up mod i did today.

To remove the Charcoal Canister

So far I have done the following also in order or listing:

Remove SAI, N249, N112 (sorry links in this one still broken) hoping to fix soon

http://www.briskoda....d-n112-removal/

OCC DIY Install

http://www.briskoda....-guide-install/

Evap, Vac hard lines, Breather simplification

http://www.briskoda....simplification/

As part of the breather clean up I had already simplified the piping to the Inlet Manifold and remove hardline and "T" piece.

So this makes it easier to now completely remove the Pipping from canister to Inlet manifold.

Charcoalcanisterdelete.jpg

Charcoalcanisterdelete4.jpg

Piping removed

Charcoalcanisterdelete5.jpg

Charcoalcanisterdelete7.jpg

Now you can unplug the wiring connector and the pipe that come from the tank (taking fumes into canister)

Charcoalcanisterdelete9.jpg

Charcoalcanisterdelete8.jpg

With those items removed undo the 2 x 10mm bolts holding canister onto inner wing

removed canister

Charcoalcanisterdelete10.jpg

Now we can focus on stopping the cell light coming on due to canister removed

Use a 330ohm resister as used on SAI removal.

Charcoalcanisterdelete24.jpg

insert each end into the wiring connector and tape up to stop water ingres into connector

Charcoalcanisterdelete23.jpg

Charcoalcanisterdelete22.jpg

I held mine out the way under strut brace(will route better later on)

Charcoalcanisterdelete16.jpg

Now you need to reuse the fume return pipe connector. This can not be block and should be routed down under the wing where there is a hole already(this will stop fumes coming into engine bay and inside cabin)

Remove the clip pipe

Charcoalcanisterdelete13.jpg

Attach a hose section onto it long enough to route down inner wing

Charcoalcanisterdelete19.jpg

Can see 2 holes I used the ower hole as the upper one has a rubber cap still in it.

Charcoalcanisterdelete25.jpg

finnished

Charcoalcanisterdelete17.jpg

Not a difficult job really and car seems to tick over better (maybe less air leaks)

  • 1 month later...

a job for the weekend for me as mine is ticking like a bomb

  • 1 year later...

Just a quick one, did you plug the Manifold inlet pipe as well or leave as is?

its a shame the photos have now been removed from the external host.

  • 10 months later...

Hi folks,

This is the last emisions clean up mod i did today.

To remove the Charcoal Canister

So far I have done the following also in order or listing:

Remove SAI, N249, N112 (sorry links in this one still broken) hoping to fix soon

http://www.briskoda....d-n112-removal/

OCC DIY Install

http://www.briskoda....-guide-install/

Evap, Vac hard lines, Breather simplification

http://www.briskoda....simplification/

As part of the breather clean up I had already simplified the piping to the Inlet Manifold and remove hardline and "T" piece.

So this makes it easier to now completely remove the Pipping from canister to Inlet manifold.

Charcoalcanisterdelete.jpg

Charcoalcanisterdelete4.jpg

Piping removed

Charcoalcanisterdelete5.jpg

Charcoalcanisterdelete7.jpg

Now you can unplug the wiring connector and the pipe that come from the tank (taking fumes into canister)

Charcoalcanisterdelete9.jpg

Charcoalcanisterdelete8.jpg

With those items removed undo the 2 x 10mm bolts holding canister onto inner wing

removed canister

Charcoalcanisterdelete10.jpg

Now we can focus on stopping the cell light coming on due to canister removed

Use a 330ohm resister as used on SAI removal.

Charcoalcanisterdelete24.jpg

insert each end into the wiring connector and tape up to stop water ingres into connector

Charcoalcanisterdelete23.jpg

Charcoalcanisterdelete22.jpg

I held mine out the way under strut brace(will route better later on)

Charcoalcanisterdelete16.jpg

Now you need to reuse the fume return pipe connector. This can not be block and should be routed down under the wing where there is a hole already(this will stop fumes coming into engine bay and inside cabin)

Remove the clip pipe

Charcoalcanisterdelete13.jpg

Attach a hose section onto it long enough to route down inner wing

Charcoalcanisterdelete19.jpg

Can see 2 holes I used the ower hole as the upper one has a rubber cap still in it.

Charcoalcanisterdelete25.jpg

finnished

Charcoalcanisterdelete17.jpg

Not a difficult job really and car seems to tick over better (maybe less air leaks)

Did u cap off the throttle body/ manifold where the pipe attached from the canister? If so do you recall the size? In the middle of deleting the sai and finishing off the evap delete so may as well do this while im at it.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Author

Did u cap off the throttle body/ manifold where the pipe attached from the canister? If so do you recall the size? In the middle of deleting the sai and finishing off the evap delete so may as well do this while im at it.

 

Yep I did cap off the throttle. I think I used 6 or 8mm cap

  • 3 months later...

Did u cap off the throttle body/ manifold where the pipe attached from the canister? If so do you recall the size? In the middle of deleting the sai and finishing off the evap delete so may as well do this while im at it.

Will be doing this soon. I know to cap off the port on top of the throttle body, but when that section of hoses is removed with one way valve, the in port near the fuel rail (I think it is) after a valve is opened, do you cap that off too? Cheers

  • Author

Will be doing this soon. I know to cap off the port on top of the throttle body, but when that section of hoses is removed with one way valve, the in port near the fuel rail (I think it is) after a valve is opened, do you cap that off too? Cheers

 

 

I think i have explained everything you need to know buddy, take a look at the pics and identify all the items to remove. I think what you are on about is pic's 12 and 13 that you removed the original pipe join and fit a length of silicon hose  to it and reconnect it.   Then the length of hose needs to be routed down the inner wing and out of bay to the wheel arch liner. 

I think i have explained everything you need to know buddy, take a look at the pics and identify all the items to remove. I think what you are on about is pic's 12 and 13 that you removed the original pipe join and fit a length of silicon hose  to it and reconnect it.   Then the length of hose needs to be routed down the inner wing and out of bay to the wheel arch liner.

No I get that. It's the first pic from part 2 of the breather simplification. As I've not done that yet I'll be doing it when I do the can. It's where a short hose comes from a one way valve to a hard line next to the throttle body. I assume any port left open like that is to be blanked, but just want to make sure as I couldn't see what to do with that port mentioned in the guide. Sorry to be a pain, great guides though, did my catch can and crankcase breathers today.

  • Author

No I get that. It's the first pic from part 2 of the breather simplification. As I've not done that yet I'll be doing it when I do the can. It's where a short hose comes from a one way valve to a hard line next to the throttle body. I assume any port left open like that is to be blanked, but just want to make sure as I couldn't see what to do with that port mentioned in the guide. Sorry to be a pain, great guides though, did my catch can and crankcase breathers today.

 

ah ok buddy sorry with you now,  been long time since I look at these. Yep correct in the breather simplification part 2 guide i removed the one way valve that went to a hard line. The other end of that hardline if i recall goes to the nipple on the Silicon TIP. so you can either plug the hose to the hardline post the one way valve or do what i did and removed complete hardlines and plug the nipple on the Silicon TIP. As long as you plug any open hose or cap nipple you are fine.

ah ok buddy sorry with you now,  been long time since I look at these. Yep correct in the breather simplification part 2 guide i removed the one way valve that went to a hard line. The other end of that hardline if i recall goes to the nipple on the Silicon TIP. so you can either plug the hose to the hardline post the one way valve or do what i did and removed complete hardlines and plug the nipple on the Silicon TIP. As long as you plug any open hose or cap nipple you are fine.

Cool, cheers mate, thought so just wanted to double check.

Yh plug the tip.

ah ok buddy sorry with you now,  been long time since I look at these. Yep correct in the breather simplification part 2 guide i removed the one way valve that went to a hard line. The other end of that hardline if i recall goes to the nipple on the Silicon TIP. so you can either plug the hose to the hardline post the one way valve or do what i did and removed complete hardlines and plug the nipple on the Silicon TIP. As long as you plug any open hose or cap nipple you are fine.

I've sourced the resistors, does the ampage of the wires matter? If so what do they need to be? Sorry if these are daft questions electrics is something I've not much of a clue about!

  • 6 months later...

great guide, what size silicone hose is required to run down to the inner wing? id imagine a metre is enough but what diameter is it?

  • Author

great guide, what size silicone hose is required to run down to the inner wing? id imagine a metre is enough but what diameter is it?

 

8mm buddy.....

top man mark thanks :)

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