Today my passenger side window decided to let off an almighty crack sound when the window was going up only for it to slowly start to fall down again ! nearly **** myself !!!

Anyways, I've sorted some genuine regulators from skodaparts.com (going to do both sides), I've read a few guides but wanting to know from people who have done it if it's a pain in the arse to do and better left to a garage ?

Thanks

Edited 28 April, 201214 yr by R1chard

Bit of a pain in the ar*# uf u dont have the rite size rivits to put the door linein back on as i found when i did mine

Ive done it, i Removed both to Properly sound proof my doors. Ill be honest, It's a massive pain in the arse.

The rivets are no problem to source, just buy them from Skoda. And a lazy tongue (heavy duty) riveter from eBay.

The hard points for me were:

Getting enough slack in the wiring loom to get your hand up and behind to remove the plug from the lock mech.

Finding enough give to refit the carrier without popping the door pin wire out all the time.

with this in mind would I have handed it over to a garage? Probably not, im a fan of DIY, and as much as I hated it I do now know the door workings backwards, which I like.

It depends on what your cash flow is like, and how you are with DIY. Someone else may come along an say it was a breeze, I'm just talking from my experience!

If you do DIY it, remember to reseal the carriers afterwards.

What year is your car? If it's an early one, then you might find that the door carriers are bolted on, making the job much easier

But as Tim said, it's a right pain trying to unclip the loom and feed the lock pin through without busting it!

Thanks for the replies guys, it's a 2006 so I'm guessing the carrier will be riveted on ?

I think I'll give it a go and see what happens

Yeh it will be riveted.

Get the rivets from Skoda, and a lazy tongue riveter. Other hand riveters won't cut it.

Also get some white clips that connect the doorcards on, as they are prone to snapping.

And also get the cable tie clips that hold the loom on the carrier, as it's easier to cut these off in places and refit new ones, rather than re-using.

What year is your car? If it's an early one, then you might find that the door carriers are bolted on, making the job much easier

But as Tim said, it's a right pain trying to unclip the loom and feed the lock pin through without busting it!

Mines an 04 and they are riveted on :(

Horrible job!

The rivets really aren't that much hassle, takes seconds to drill them out. it's getting the thing on an off without breaking anything that's the hassle!

Thanks for all the advice, just remembered from sealing my rear doors that they are riveted on !

Nothing a drill won't sort

Pain in the a55 but I got quoted something like £150 at the dealers so preferred the £35 DIY option. Save up your swear words as you'll be needing lots of them if you try it yourself!

mines an 04 and are bolted on

just to give another opinion after having just done mine... ABSOLUTE PAIN IN THE ARSE.

BUT it was worth the saving over having it done by a dealer. If its the pulley system that has broken, just get a replacement door skin rather than trying to do it yourself. I bought the pulley system on ebay, followed the instructional video and buggered it up so had to buy the door skin instead.

Oh my reason for saying it's a PITA? i spent about 4 hours (honestly no exaggeration trying to unclip the door lock plug from all the door cables. You are basically doing this by touch. I read from other people it took them between 30 mins and 2 hours to do this tiny step. Who knows though? you could be lucky with this small part

Yeah from what I've read everyone has said the plug for the door lock is very awkward, from the couple of small jobs I've done myself on the car since having it they've been plain sailing so I hope this will be too, we shall see....

It get s easier the more you do it... I'm now on twice on the passenger side and have also had the drivers side off twice to lube everything up...

Door lock wiring just needs longish figer nails and a good grip (or a very small screwdriver in the right place) and to get the carrier back on past the door lock pin you need to rotate the carrier.

could you not extend the loom that doesnt give enough play once the carrier is off?

Can't see why disconnecting the lock plug is such a pain. If you remove the lock barrel or blanking plug for it, disconnect the cable to the exterior handle and use a spline 8 tool to unscrew the bolts which hold the lock to the door, it will come away with the carrier and you'll have plenty of room to reach up between the door and the carrier to disconnect it. The only thing to watch out for is that you dont break the part on the lock which secures the locking rod.

Can't see why disconnecting the lock plug is such a pain. If you remove the lock barrel or blanking plug for it, disconnect the cable to the exterior handle and use a spline 8 tool to unscrew the bolts which hold the lock to the door, it will come away with the carrier and you'll have plenty of room to reach up between the door and the carrier to disconnect it. The only thing to watch out for is that you dont break the part on the lock which secures the locking rod.

I managed to do this.

Luckily I had to replace the motor anyway as it was duff, but i obviously twisted it wrong trying to get the lock pin free

So when did rivets replace bolts for the door carriers, we've got an April 04 car with bolts [phew, he says]. Anyhow, agree with last but one post, if you've got 8mm spline socket, remove the lock mechanism with the carrier, but take care not to break the flimsy support bracket. After practice and right tools I had the door carrier removed from the door (glass removed obviously) within 20 minutes. (Took two hours for the first door mind.)

Mine's going in for a passenger side change from electric to manual on Thursday. My indie has said 1-1 1/2 hours to do, the mechanic said no problem.

The only thing to watch out for is that you dont break the part on the lock which secures the locking rod.

Did that the first time I replaced the carrier years ago - it;s been tie wired together ever since

Had mine swapped today. Admittedly they didn't have to take the door card off or put it back on as I had to drill a hole for the manual winder in the card but it took 30 minutes. They undid the door lock. I would have probably broken something so it was a good £34.90 spent.

Just a quick update as to how this went,

Not as bad as I thought it would be thanks to all the advice from people on here

Only problem really was that stupid conector to the locking motor, I found it easy to get to by tilting the carrier open at the bottom when all the rivets are drilled out so you can get your hand rite up to it.

Unfortunately half of the blue part on the motor broke inside the conector but it super glued back on no problem so the conector would clip back on

Also as said above a lazy tong riveter is a must if your using standard Skoda rivets as a normal hand riveter is a no go !

Took me a few hours plus some sun burn to complete lol but it was well worth it and a huge feeling of satisfaction to finish it and the window now works like a dream

Thanks for the help everyone it's been much appreciated