Hi all,

Have had a 1.3 Felica Estate '99 going on 3 years now.

Since we got it, the Fuel gauge, revs meter and temp gauge have not worked. Also the button panel for lights, back screen heater etc gets very hot when the car has been on for some time.

This week however there have been a few new issues that I think may be connected.

• First, our weekly check of the lights failed. When we turn on the front light, the left side is a lot weaker than the right, and when we switch to high beams, the lights go out and we get nothing. When we try to flash high beams nothing happens but low beams stay on. All other lights are functioning correctly.
  

• Also, our air blower power gets stronger when we accelerate and goes weak when we slow down (never happened before).
  

• Today our front wipers started swinging at about double their regular speed while we were driving!
  

• I checked the fuse box this evening and discovered that the fuse for Front lights and wipers is supposed to be 15amp but a 25amp is fitted. Also the 10amp fuse that controlled the front left light was blown so I replaced that. (I dont have a 15amp fuse on me so will get one tomorrow). After I was finished with the fuse box I check the wipers again while the car was off and they appeared to be fine but no change with the lights.
  

Are the above connected? I have little experience with cars.. All I have is a haynes manual, a multimeter and the internet..

I've already fixed the blower motor myself after being told the "Whole thing" needed to be replaced (ended up being a broken spring!) so I'd like to be able to solve this one myself too.

Hoping someone can help..

SImon.

All I have is a haynes manual, a multimeter.....

you have all you need.

but having them alone doesn't help, problem is do you know how to use them?

my father had a huge bookcase with lots of books with elegant covers.

did that make him smart? no, because he didn't read them.

you have Haynes manual. did you open it at Electrical System, Fault Finding Programmes?

because all you need is in there.

if that doesn't help, you clearly need to let somebody else do that job.

This is why I came to the forum.. For help/guidance.. If you can provide neither then....

you have all you need.

but having them alone doesn't help, problem is do you know how to use them?

my father had a huge bookcase with lots of books with elegant covers.

did that make him smart? no, because he didn't read them.

you have Haynes manual. did you open it at Electrical System, Fault Finding Programmes?

because all you need is in there.

if that doesn't help, you clearly need to let somebody else do that job.

i really don't see the need for you to be so rude.

Simon, I would begin by checking the two most common electrical failing points on Favorit's and Felicia's.

First check the charge rate of the alternator as the regulator is prone to cause the alternator to overcharge leading to various electrical components to burn out as a result. Do this by connecting a voltmeter to the battery with the engine running, both at idle and at various engine revs. You should see a voltage of about 14 volts.

Secondly the actual fusebox itself is prone to causing all kinds of problems, often as a result of a water leak from the windscreen dripping over it.

Thanks for the reply Dave,

I had hoped to have checked the alternator last night before posting here but the weather was horrible so It will have to wait until later today. (The Mrs drove it to work).

I didn't see any noticeable damage to the fuse box and all relays click on and off when activated/deactivated.

Will report back this evening when 25amp fuse is replace with 15amp and alternator has been checked.

Daverapid, that's my view of what a decent/helpful & courteous response should constitute. Like good manners it costs nothing.

The lighting problem sounds like you might have a dodgy earth point, It would be worth checking every one of them and cleaning up any that have any sign of rust etc.

Ok was just in town getting replacement fuses and checked the alternator while I was near the Mrs workplace. Before I changed the 25amp fuse to the proper 15amp the battery was reading 14 volts and the alternator was reading 19 volts.

Once I changed the fuse, the battery was reading 13.1 volts but the alternator was still high at 18 volts.

Is this a possible cause of some of the original problems?

The lighting problem sounds like you might have a dodgy earth point, It would be worth checking every one of them and cleaning up any that have any sign of rust etc.

Not sure about what/where earth points are..

i really don't see the need for you to be so rude.

what part is rude? the one where I'm saying to READ Felicia's Haynes, the most detailed, logical, step by step electrical fault finding, instead of just OWNING it?

here are a few titles in there:

- TESTING HEADLIGHTS

- TESTING ALTERNATOR

- COOLANT TEMPERATURE GAUGE TROUBLESHOOTING

- FUEL GAUGE TROUBLESHOOTING

oh, he ONLY has Haynes and a multimeter... bummer.

people should come here to ask for help only AFTER they tried all solutions they have available.

I busted my ass for every problem I had, gathering information in all possible language and trying to solve it.

but it looks that all of a sudden telling people to read the EASIEST, QUICKEST method is a rude thing...

what comes next? go to his house and fix his car for him?

oh, cry me a river...

Just because you busted your ass fixing your problems does not mean I have to do the same though. Yes, I have the manual but did you read my complete first post? All of these problems happening at the same time are more than just coincidence and might be an indication of only one major issue that will solve all the little problems when fixed.

I think one of the good values of this forum is to consult with other members who might have similar problems or who might recognize that several problems can be fixed with one simple solution rather than me testing every single thing only to eventually realise the long hard way that there was another issue causing all the little problems.

I would rather ask a few people first if consulting the manual is the "Easiest , quickest" method before I go wasting my time.

what part is rude? the one where I'm saying to READ Felicia's Haynes, the most detailed, logical, step by step electrical fault finding, instead of just OWNING it?

here are a few titles in there:

- TESTING HEADLIGHTS

- TESTING ALTERNATOR

- COOLANT TEMPERATURE GAUGE TROUBLESHOOTING

- FUEL GAUGE TROUBLESHOOTING

oh, he ONLY has Haynes and a multimeter... bummer.

people should come here to ask for help only AFTER they tried all solutions they have available.

I busted my ass for every problem I had, gathering information in all possible language and trying to solve it.

but it looks that all of a sudden telling people to read the EASIEST, QUICKEST method is a rude thing...

what comes next? go to his house and fix his car for him?

oh, cry me a river...

Count to ten and calm down!!

Ok was just in town getting replacement fuses and checked the alternator while I was near the Mrs workplace. Before I changed the 25amp fuse to the proper 15amp the battery was reading 14 volts and the alternator was reading 19 volts.

Once I changed the fuse, the battery was reading 13.1 volts but the alternator was still high at 18 volts.

Is this a possible cause of some of the original problems?

Not sure about what/where earth points are..

If you're getting 18 or 19 volts anywhere you must start by replacing the regulator, it costs about £20 and is held to the back of the alternator with 2 screws. You should do that as a matter of urgency, in particular you don't want to cook the ECU.

^ Like many of us in Briskoda Simon is simply searching for additional/supplementary information in respect of electrical issues, that can let's face it be really tricky. If you compare and contrast your response with that of Dave you should see fundamental differences in tone, manner & approach, but that's not to say you don't make some very pertinent points it's just the way in which they're delivered. Such responses can have the initiator scratching his/her head and wondering what on earth they've done or said wrong.

From my perspective it's just observational and I'm grateful for the response you fired back to me re: my Felly.

If you're getting 18 or 19 volts anywhere you must start by replacing the regulator, it costs about £20 and is held to the back of the alternator with 2 screws. You should do that as a matter of urgency, in particular you don't want to cook the ECU.

Roger that, I saw the how-to guide in the 'Common Problems' sticky so I'll try to get it sorted within the week.

Cheers for your help.

Just because you busted your ass fixing your problems does not mean I have to do the same though.

I would rather ask a few people first if consulting the manual is the "Easiest , quickest" method before I go wasting my time.

that cocky answer says all about you.

you are just LAZY and don't want to waste your precious time.

instead you ask other members to serve you a solution on a silver platter.

wake up, people.

Oh for goodness sake will you relax.. I made a point not to add any exclamation marks to that reply so you would not interpret the message as being smart or aggressive. What you call lazy, I call efficient. What you call "Solution on a silver platter", I call teaching.. And yes, my time is precious.. Isn't everyone's?

You don't know me, you don't know what my intellectual abilities or limitations are.. So why are you so quick to judge me?

I may know nothing about cars but I have never once refused to service or repair or advise anyone when they have computer problems (MY area of experience) just because the answer is in the Windows Manual..

I'm going to lock this as I can see from some of the plainly rude posts that this couldv easily get out of hand.