I'd like to do this at some point in the near future as my coolant is pretty scummy so really want to flush the whole system through and remove the expansion tank and steam clean it. Only problem is the Haynes manual says after draining the coolant you need to replace the sealing washers and apply some sealant to where the drain plugs are. There are 2 plugs, one on the metal pipe near the auxiliary belt pulley and another on the other end of the engine block.

Has anyone on here done a change on the 1.3Mpi and did you bother replacing these bits? Anyone got any part numbers? I'll be using genuine G12 from Skoda so will order the other bits from them.

sealing washers? lol, removed and reused the bolt from the metal pipe you speak of 5 or 6 times and never noticed any washers :think: never had any problem with it either. i just do it up really tight

My Dad, handyman extraordinaire and Britain's foremost penny pincher would tell you to just turn the washers the other way round when you refit em.

Haynes can be a bit pedantic sometimes. They more or less have the right idea, replacing bits that you 'may as well while you're there', but sometimes it really isn't necessary. Little things like washers should never cost more than say a quid or two, but it's seems to be to be a mostly needless expense nonetheless.

JJ

the washer is originally a copper one.

I agree that Haynes can be a bit pedantic sometimes.

we're talking about a car from VAG after all...

so if you can buy a copper washer easily, do it.

if not, a non-rubber hot water washer will do just fine.

Thanks guys. I've got access to another car and a parts place nearby so once I've got the old washer off I can get a copper one the same diameter from there.

Not only this, but there is a good reason I refer to Haynes as the Haynes book of lies.

Take some things with a bit of a pinch of salt - some stuff is just common sense.

As a tip - if you're flushing out coolant... I found that if you run the car up to temp with water and some calgon it'll clear out a fair amount of crud - then flush into the header tank (with fresh water, leaving the drain plug unplugged) then put the cap back on the header tank and take the temp sender out and backflush from there. Reason for the backflush is that if you're flushing with cold water, the thermostat will close meaning you'll only get to flush half the system properly

or you can simply take out the thermostat housing (check thermostat on this occasion) and with both drain plugs out, you can flush the cooling system forward, backward and sideways.

or you can simply take out the thermostat housing (check thermostat on this occasion) and with both drain plugs out, you can flush the cooling system forward, backward and sideways.

Fair point, well made

Another point, if you run the engine up to temperature and then drain the coolant, let it cool before filling with cold water, even to flush. Thermal shock is not a good for alloy engines.